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Front Drive Shaft Universal Broke Off


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front right shuddering at start up to 20 mph and then smooth. I assumed it was  the inside UV joint on right axle after reading the trouble shooting guide in manual.

 

on way home heard a snap and bang and a lot of whining. pulled over immediately and called tow.

 

toniite put on 4 jack stands and discovered that the front joint of drive shaft right at the tranny is broke clean off. turned the front wheels and heard no noise either in neutral or in gear so not sure if any tranny damage.

 

also noticed broke inside boot on tie road on left side but don't know if related.

 

can I take this front drive shaft off and test drive it at low speed to see if any tranny damage?

 

I should leave the part that goes into the tranny so the oil doesn't drain out, right?  I just want to test drive it. it will go, right?

 

 

 

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Ya, its best just to replace the entire shaft, since the rear shaft joints are probably not far behind.

 

What I'm wondering though is why the ujoints snapped without warning like that, I wonder if there is tourque bind issues. Did you recently change a tire out?

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The yoke isn't likely to stay in the transmission if you try to drive it.

There isn't anything holding it in there, once the driveshaft is removed the yoke slides out easily. Add in some rotation and you have a flying 3lb chunk of steel. Not safe to try and drive it IMO.

 

The better thing is to just remove the yoke and find a cup or small container to fit over the dust cap on the end of the trans. Put some RTV on to seal it or tape it in place. This will only work as a temporary cap to keep the oil from dumping out, but should allow you to move the car.

 

The car may move but it should feel like the clutch is slipping badly. The way the manual trans works, the rear driveshaft has to be connected in order for it to transmit full power to the wheels. This is a mechanical limitation of the center differential. The center diff has a limited slip unit which is what allows it to slip while turning so you don't get torque bind, but its a fluid coupling, which means it will slip quite a bit. The center diff will essentially be open, and will transfer most of its rotation to the rear output shaft of the trans, rather than to the front wheels.

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I changed all 4 tires 3 days before. when I bought the car it came with 4 snows on wheels with only one winter on them.( the owner told me that and he had the receipt for tires ) on the tire there is an arrow with direction of travel on them so I think I put them on the right sides.

 

the car drove real smooth for about 250 miles before this happened. it may be possible that I put them on wrong. I was referencing the arrow on tire.

 

I was thinking the same thing. do you think I should just put the summer tires back on after I replace the shafts and sell the winter ones?

Edited by roadsubiedog
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ive got it on 4 jack stands. after I take the shafts off and cap the tranny could I just start it and put it in 1st or second and idle it to see if there is any other damage.

 

or this may sound unsafe because of vibration and I would be better off to take it for a slow test drive?

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thanks everyone for all the feedback. ( That is the reason I became a gold subscriber recently )

 

 it has to be a 95-99 legacy L or limited , right? for a match. the Outback for those years don't match?

 

mine is a 1997 legacy L with a 2.2 and MT.

 

I have to wait til next Saturday to go to pick n pull.

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just to be on the safe side im taking it to one of the best tire shops to see if I put them on the right sides and its only a couple miles away.

 

I started it up and the stands and put it in first and second and there were no noices. both wheels spun at first and then only the passenger side. is that OK?

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started it up and the stands and put it in first and second and there were no noices. both wheels spun at first and then only the passenger side. is that OK?

Yeah that's pretty normal. The side with the least drag in the axle, bearing and brakes will spin more.

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 Fairtax4me    thanks . that puts my mind at ease.

 

Imdew.  you posted that 95-99 L will be compatible.

 

I should of also asked if it also has to come from a manual tranny like mine ? I measured mine before going to pick n pull. I have 10 matches at my pick n pull for 95-99 but only one L. the rest are a couple brightons, 2 LSi and the rest are outbacks.

 

you are saying that they wont be compatible? just the L?  I assume the 9 others must be a different length or configuration.

Edited by roadsubiedog
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Just has to be a Legacy with a manual trans.

L, GT, Brighton, Base all have the same. Sedan and wagon are same.

 

 

Outback is different and will not work. The hanger for the center bearing is different and throws off the angle of the driveshaft which will cause major vibration.

 

Automatic trans has a different length driveshaft and will not work.

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just got back from tire pro and the tires are on the correct side. the psi and tread was checked and they are correct also.

 

I guess since the vehicle has 265,000 miles on it and has spent all it's life in snow country, it was time for it to go.

 

i only found 2 match vehicles at pick npull but wont to get chance to get there til Saturday and if the drive shafts are still available.

 

i'll report back when everything is done and test droved.

 

thanks again everyone for your help.

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no luck at picnpull. 11 vehicles from 95-99 . 10 were automatics. the driveshaft from the manual was gone. will try car-part.com again. tried it the other day and they only offered the front or back and not the whole unit.

 

I was told to get the whole thing even though I only need the front part because the whole unit is balanced. if I just replace the front of the driveshaft don't I run the risk of vibration issues?

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