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Runs Good, Runs Hot, White Smoke, New Intake Gaskets


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Freeze plugs are in certain spots in the block so that in case the coolant is the freeze it gives the coolant a place to expand to without cracking the block. It makes no sense that a freeze plug would EVER cause oil to mix with coolant.

Freeze plugs are on the outside of the motor, they cause external leaks only

 

There are 3 plugs in EA heads.....all of them are under the valve cover.

 

IF any one of them leaks it WILL result in coolant dumping into the oil pan.

 

But they won't cause a leak into the intake directly.  But moist, mixed blow-by gases could be sucked in through the PCV

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There are 3 plugs in EA heads.....all of them are under the valve cover.

 

IF any one of them leaks it WILL result in coolant dumping into the oil pan.

 

But they won't cause a leak into the intake directly.  But moist, mixed blow-by gases could be sucked in through the PCV

They must have only done this in the ea motors. I know for a fact neither of my ej22s have this. I have never seen this on any motor before, and I don't see the point in having freeze plugs in this location
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They must have only done this in the ea motors. I know for a fact neither of my ej22s have this. I have never seen this on any motor before, and I don't see the point in having freeze plugs in this location

 

The point in having freeze plugs in this location is that they work.

Several folks who froze thier motors have reported no problems after replacing the popped plugs.

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The point in having freeze plugs in this location is that they work.

Several folks who froze thier motors have reported no problems after replacing the popped plugs.

And the engines that don't have these don't have issues either, and that's probably why they discontinued this in later models. A freeze plug is an intentional weak spot, to put an intentional weak spot for the coolant under the valve covers is stupid IMHO
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:) an EJ enthusiast caught out in an EA thread :)

 

Get an engine warm enough and its buttermilk oil and coolant combo may just blow steam as moisture may slip past the rings

I had no idea that EJs don't have freeze plugs in their heads - learnt something !

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:) an EJ enthusiast caught out in an EA thread :)

 

Get an engine warm enough and its buttermilk oil and coolant combo may just blow steam as moisture may slip past the rings

I had no idea that EJs don't have freeze plugs in their heads - learnt something !

You caught me lol. My first Subaru was an ea71, I liked it a lot but I never tore down the motor so i am lacking in the knowledge of certain parts of the motor
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They must have only done this in the ea motors. I know for a fact neither of my ej22s have this. I have never seen this on any motor before, and I don't see the point in having freeze plugs in this location

 

They really aren't there for freeze protection.  That's what proper antifreeze is for.

 

They are there because they need to be to have somewhere for the casting sand to be removed.  That's there actual purpose on every engines.  EJ22 have similar ports in them, under the cam.......but for EJ they have been tapped and capped with hex plugs instead of press in.

 

The "freeze plug" name is a misnomer and came about because of the totally secondary effect having these plugs can have of "saving" an engine from freezing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks y'all,

  OK, so here's the update.

  Got the heads to the shop, they showed me a small bridge crack, but Subaru TB says the size is OK if there is no pressure leakage.

  Both heads passed pressure test, vacuum test as well.

  I didn't ask about the freeze plugs, but I noticed them too, thought it was curious.

  I'm assuming they would have showed failure during the pressure/vacuum testing.

  The heads were warped .007 so we had just enough to resurface flat and remain in spec.

  Heads are now surfaced and ready to reinstall.

  My questions that remain are two..........

1) What brand gasket do you recommend?

2) Since the steam was coming up through the valve cover ports into the intake, is there anything else I should be working to fix while I'm in it?

 

  Since the carb has the gasket that keeps the coolant from getting into the intake I'm going to replace it as well.

  To me, the system where the coolant comes up under the carb is not a good system, it's overkill if you have a good choke system.

  Since we live in California I'm tempted to plug off the small pipe into the carb and then remove the fixture on the cross over pipe where the small hose connects to it.

  Since the car has already passed smog I'm also going to plug the drivers side EGR piping and remove it.

  I believe that the car will be junkyard bound before two years passes, but I'm going to keep all the smog stuff just in case.

  Please advise if there are any other items I should be looking for prior to completing this process.

  BTW, if any of you are in Northern California (Placerville Area) I highly recommend Kellys Automotive and Machine Shop in Shingle Springs.  They're quite knowledgeable, very honest and have reasonable rates.  Say Hi to Eric when you're there.

Peace,

Nick

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I know of 2 possible reasons for the coolant right near the carb [and throttle body] 

 

1.  Keep the whole manifold and all at the same temp, because of expansion stress if un evenly heated.

2.  Prevent carburetor icing.

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That makes sense in a purely engineering sort of way, but if the tiny spot of hot coolant is limited to that one carb location I think the second reason you suggest is more likely and something I won't have to worry about in this neck of the woods.  Thanks very much.

 

Went to Subaru to get the gaskets for the carb to intake location.

1) Good news - they were still available (although a week away)

2) Bad news - there was a missing "spacer" to the system that was $28 and the two tiny paper gaskets were $4/ea.  Subaru is proud of their stuff eh?

 

The head gaskets will come next week anyway, ought to be fun to put it all back together and see how it goes!

 

Thanks everyone for all your help.

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All, Time to purchase the Head Gaskets.

  We're only getting/needing the Intake/Exhaust/Head gaskets, everything else remains unchanged.

  The question I have is which brand do you recommend for this application. 

  I'd normally go for the Fel Pro Set if I was doing a Gen 2, but this is old school and I'm unfamiliar with the configuration.

  The choices are as follows................

 

Ishino Stone - PN#WO133-1634114 for $18.23/ea

DNJ - PN#340-05312142 for $14.98/ea

FEL PRO - PN#340-07021892 for $20.38/ea

VR Gasket - PN#340-05125814 for $23.98/ea

 

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

Please advise................

 

thanks!!!

Nick

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genuine for me too! Each time I have used genuine I have found that the retension after initial warm up cool down has not been required. Every other has taken a bit more. No matter the cost I am sold on genuine.

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  • 3 months later...

Hey all, getting LOTS of mixed messages about the "right" head gaskets.  I just need to get the correct set and put the beastie back together.  Got the heads back and they're ready to go.  Had the "typical" between the valves surface crack on one head, but was within specs on the Subaru Tech Guide.  I need to get these on order and I'm not sure if this Fel Pro set is correct? HS8818PT.  It's a 1986 EA81 OHV Carbureted model.

Please help!!!

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

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I've been using Altrom products from NAPA.  I find their seals and valve cover gaskets to be equal to OEM and a lot less costly.  I think they also have head gaskets and are worth a look.

 

PS.  I learned a lot about Subaru freeze plugs from this thread.

Edited by Dee2
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