SubaruMowery Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I have a 96 legacy with 262k on it currently. It started doing the 16 flash A/T transmission light. It ended up being code 24 (duty solenoid C / Valve transfer assy) I put in the FWD fuse and it didn't work at first (no FWD light). I decided to leave it in and see if its working at all. I noticed it might work for a day or half a day or 20 minutes and then the FWD light will go off again. (my thinking is FWD works when the solenoid is working with the fuse in)... I looked into prices and it would cost me around $2-400 to do the solenoid and clutch pack myself. or about the same price for a used transmisison here in phonenix. I don't want to do this job and then have it break again soon with such high miles. And frankly its hard to spend more money on a car that is worth around $2000 these days... So here are my questions... 1. What is the life span of a 96 subaru/nissan 4EAT? 2. Is it worth it to change the Duty Solenoid C / clutch pack on a tranny with 262k on it... WIll another solenoid or someting else likely go out in my transmission soon? 3. Could it be something being plugged up causing the FWD mode to work intermentately... to which a fluid drain and fill could possibly fix my woes? Your advice is appricaited! Any advice.... I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer suby... I'm just so use to the 2.2 reliability and have been afraid of the head gasket issues of any 2.5 legacy/outback till 2010 which is out of the budget for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedotsnow Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I have a 96 legacy with 262k on it currently. It started doing the 16 flash A/T transmission light. It ended up being code 24 (duty solenoid C / Valve transfer assy) I put in the FWD fuse and it didn't work at first (no FWD light). I decided to leave it in and see if its working at all. I noticed it might work for a day or half a day or 20 minutes and then the FWD light will go off again. (my thinking is FWD works when the solenoid is working with the fuse in)... I looked into prices and it would cost me around $2-400 to do the solenoid and clutch pack myself. or about the same price for a used transmisison here in phonenix. I don't want to do this job and then have it break again soon with such high miles. And frankly its hard to spend more money on a car that is worth around $2000 these days... So here are my questions... 1. What is the life span of a 96 subaru/nissan 4EAT? safely 50k-400k miles <DEPENDING ON HOW ITS DRIVEN AND MAINTENANCE if you have excessive lag in shift or the trans shifts up and down alot going up steep hills you might want to replace the trans 2. Is it worth it to change the Duty Solenoid C / clutch pack on a tranny with 262k on it... WIll another solenoid or someting else likely go out in my transmission soon? in my experience the other solenoids don't get as much individual use/abuse as the duty c but I have herd of others going out which when you drop the main pan are easy to get to. unless you have WAY to much play or ware of friction material in your clutch packs you don't need to replace them. case and point if you have wheel hop from torque bind when turning in tight circles you don't need to replace the clutch pack because its locking up enough to cause the torque bind. typically the valve body never fails but you can't buy just the solenoid.... SO my best solution is to go to a junk yard and grab several out of matching transmissions maybe forget some are in your pocket... bring an ohm tester so you can verify they are in spec.... these aren't guaranteed to work but if you have more time than money this is a good way to do it on the cheap... worked for me a few months ago first one I installed from the junk yard worked... then my atf pump died.... so essentially you can do the job for around $50 using a used solenoid. 3. Could it be something being plugged up causing the FWD mode to work intermentately... to which a fluid drain and fill could possibly fix my woes? yes and no to my knowledge the the FWD light is electronically static. if enguaged the FWD light comes on even if you still have torque bind, thats actually the test... if the solenoid has failed the cars computer has no control over it FWD light stays on.your fault for the FWD fuse is likely in the wiring, try putting a fuse in and then individaully move and pull the wires to see if there is any change to the FWD light. Any advice.... I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer suby... I'm just so use to the 2.2 reliability and have been afraid of the head gasket issues of any 2.5 legacy/outback till 2010 which is out of the budget for now. older subaru's are steel on steel cylinders 97 on used molybdenum on steel so you don't get the same engine lifespan, but they are 10% more efficient. please check out this link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150136-best-way-to-test-duty-c-solenoid-and-valve-body-phase-1-4eat/ I made this video to help people understand how the system works and will be adding to it the next time I do one of these services. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Nah, there are no "expected" or common failures of the 4EAT, but it obviously happens. 300k is approaching territory with few data points and those are assuming it's the original trans. The Duty C job isn't that hard to do in the vehicle - probably worth repairing if you have the time/resolve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruMowery Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Thank you guys for the quick replies... My first suby was a 95 legacy and sold at around 200k. It had the torque bind and the tranny light never came on... After being told i needed to replace the tranny I just drove it in tight circles after a few drains and refills and it worked believe it or not... Some years later when I bought this car, have had it for a long time and was planning on replacing the front axle and keep it going when I found time... Then this happened, it never really had the buck or bind, from driving it so long I felt like somethign was different but I can't really tell unless i'm backing up in a turn an it sounds like the parking brake is stuck (but its not)...and in the last two days the window swtich broke and the drivers outside door handle haha. I don't have a ton of time these days b/c of grad school so time has been the real issue. Thats why we have been considering a newer suby... Just hate to sell her for nothing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Can't hurt to buy a new one and keep the old one for a backup rig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 There's another option that's easy and free! Do it and run it another 100,000 miles! Leave the FWD fuse in and disconnect the rear half of the driveshaft so you're always in FWD. If the Duty C works - the FWD switch is in. If it doesn't work - then it'll be "locked" in 4WD which is only FWD if the rear half of driveshaft is disconnected. Alternately you can just cut one wire to the Duty C so it's never powered and always "locked" in 4WD with driveshaft disconnected. You could even make money off this repair - sell your driveshaft for $50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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