Millefune Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Hello. I've just bought a pre-owned 2001 Outback Limited AWD with 171K on the odometer. When I asked the dealership when the timing belt was last changed, they told me it wasn't on the Carfax report, but it had to have been done, because "if it wasn't changed at all, the car wouldn't have made it to 171K miles." Currently, the engine feels fine when driving. There's a little bit of vibration I can feel through the steering wheel when the idle is below the 1K mark, but I've felt that in just about every older/high-mileage car I've driven.Anyway, my question is, is it possible for the original timing belt to have lasted this long, and I need to go in and get it replaced right away, or is it safe for me to wait until 180K (the next 90K interval, in which I believe it's supposed to be changed)? I appreciate any time given to helping me figure things out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 When last timing service is an unknown, most of us here would get it taken care of as soon as possible, just for piece of mind - 2001 is an interference motor, meaning if the belt does break, or jump time, there is very high likelihood of valve damage. It is also recommended to change the idler pulleys, water pump, and possibly the tensioner - the belts generally dont fail all on thier own, there is usually something else that causes excess wear on the belt - something like a failed bearing in an idler puller... just make note of the mileage it is done at, and go XX,XXX miles to the next one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millefune Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 About how much is it to have the service done? I ask, because when I Googled it, I got people saying from $500 to $1,500. That's a pretty big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 In my opinion, yes, the original timing components can last that long. Also, the vibration in the steering wheel may be being transmitted thru the inner joint of the axle as the engine idles, as is somewhat common in worn or aftermarket replacement axles. I had recently serviced a 2002 outback sedan that was on its original belts at 163,000 mi. His oil technitian noticed a knocking sound during a coolant flush that was the tensioner being worn and backlashing. The piston on the tensioner had leaked out its oil allowing baklash in the belt, and the knocking sound. Ither this flops around so bad the belt jumps, or one of the idler bearings, especially the cog by the water pump starts to fail its bearing taking the b elt with it. The water pump can last into 225,000 mi before it seizes and takes the belt. PS: i have a 92 mazda protege that leaked the water pump at 213,000 mi and when i went to service it i found it has the original timing belt. I have seen a toyota corolla 175,000 mi on its original belt. Either of these are not as complicated with as many idlers and don't have as many chances for a single component to fail. The parts for this car was about 175 from gates from amazon with belt, idlers, tensioner, and water pump. I charged a $200 labor to do the work. On his end the cost was within 500 for the parts, labor, and clamps, coolant, etc. Starting from 500 and more depending on if doing cam seals, shop labor rate, parts markup, etc. Anyone here would advocate you undertake the work yourself if you are at least familiar with tools but not yet a Subaru. Alas, the dealer, or any small shop, or parhaps yourself can be able to remove a cover and take a peek. Access to doing the work is easy. The only complicated part is the timing mark and pulling the pin on the tensioner and knowing it is correct when you attempt t start the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millefune Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Ah, I guess I'll hope that wherever I take it to, they won't try to milk me for cash. How about the "head gasket" fix? How much does that usually run if it's needed? I really hope I don't have to spend more than I paid for the car to make it road-worthy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I just had a timing belt and water pump replaced at a private garage. They charged me $525, but with a AAA club discount, the bill was $475. Head gasket issue on a 2001 is usually not a big issue. Subaru does sell a "conditioner," which is a "stop leak" product. It does a good job of sealing up any external coolant leaks. After reading your post, I bet your car's timing belt has never been changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) If you're concerned about the head gaskets, have a shop look at it before you have them do the belts. You're probably fine, but if you do end up doing them, may as well do the t-belt at the same time, since it has to come off anyway. Edit: Not sure what the shop rates in your area are, but at my shop, it's around $800 for labor and the timing belt, all idlers, tensioner, water pump, crank seal, and both cams. That's what I pulled up on my 2000 forester, yours would be close. Our shop rate is $97/hour. Hope that gives you an idea. Edited December 11, 2014 by Dj7291993 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 book time x l;abor rate = 2.6 hours for a timing belt and water pump install according tho the instructions that come with the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Almijisti Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi; my subby is at 192k and I'm about to embark on replacing the head gaskets (apparently second time, as previous owner had Felpros installed at some point). I assume they replaced the belt either at the 100k interval, or whenever they did the head gaskets. That said, it's almost time to replace the belt and idlers anyway, even if it were done before. I've been noticing a sound like a bad bearing or something from the front of the engine that eventually quiets down by warmup. Unfortunately, this is when the car starts to overheat (I have the exhaust-in-coolant variant of blown gasket). I have no reason to think the sound is a rod knock, and it's distinct from the Subaru Slap sound. It's possibly the alternator or a/c, of course and I will do the screwdriver sound test to be sure, but I am very worried about a bad idler bearing, which could cause the belt to give and total the engine. Anyway, I will do the timing belt since I pretty much have to, regardless. What I don't want to do is order one of those DIY timing kits and find that I got the wrong tensioner. My subby is 1997 2.5l DOHC and I believe they switched the tensioner in the middle of that year. It isn't clear to me whether there are two or three variations: the pulley-on-arm hydraulic tensioner (believe this is later); a bar shaped hydraulic tensioner (earlier); a single pulley thing (not sure if this was ever correct). When I look for the kits, all three come up as "Fits 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5l DOHC". Are they, in fact, interchangeable, and if not, how do I know before opening it up? Though I'm going to be in there anyway, I don't want to have to have things opened then wait for a week for one tensioner to arrive, nor do I want to pay for the wrong tensioner and have to deal with returning it or reselling it somewhere. My intention is to get in and out as quickly as I can as I have to rent a space to do the work. That, of course, depends on whether the heads need to be machined....So is there any way to tell which tensioner I need without removing the timing belt cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) I also have a 97. Before I ordered the timing belt, I took off the driver side of timing belt cover, and looked with a flashlight and mirror to see if it was a cylinder type tensioner or the other type. It only takes a few minutes to remove the driver side cover. Not sure where you get the 3 different types. I have only found two. Edited January 2, 2015 by mikec03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Best way to tell which tensioner you have is pull the drivers end timing cover off. It's only 3 bolts. You can look in through the side and see the end of the tensioner. Only two types of tensioners. The arms style tensioner is a one piece deal. The cylinder type tensioner is a two peice setup. The pulley is bolted on separately, there is a post/casting on the back that the piston on the tensioner pushes against. The two piece tensioner is the more reliable of the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Almijisti Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Ok. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoMatt Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I just (yesterday and today) the belt, idlers, water pump on our perfectly good running '92 Legacy.Why? Peace of mind. The car came with zero service history. Better safe than sorry. As said, you pull the drivers side cover, you'll be able to get an idea if it's been done (turn the engine over and look for a non-Subaru mark on the belt, and look for cracks.) Suffice to say, I've learned plenty in the last two days. I'd never done the job before on a Subaru.The shaking engine you feel is not caused by the timing belt. Unless it skipped a tooth, but I'd say that's unlikely. Timing belt is generally an all or nothing deal. it works fine, or you're dead in the water. Head gaskets, compression... good things to look into. As said, if that needs done, do it all at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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