Just bought my son a 2001 Forester. What should I ask my mechanic to look at?

[nitroman58]

I will be picking up a 2001 Forester with 81,000 early next week.  It has a 5 speed manual transmission.  This will be used by my son for college, which is about 3.5 hours away.  I want to bring the car to a local mechanic before my son takes it to school.  Other than, oil, brakes, tires, and battery, is there anything that I should ask the mechanic to look over?

This car seems to have an aftermarket radio.  If I wanted to switch out the radio, is there a special size that I need?  Is there a good place to buy replacement mats for this car?

Thanks in advance.

[brus brother]

Welcome to the board.

Did a mechanic knowledgeable with Subarus check the car before you bought it?

This era needs a conditioner added to the coolant system to forestall external head gasket leaks. Check to see if this was done as I seem to remember it was part of a recall initially. Subsequent coolant system changes would need it added again.

The common area for this leak is at the rear of the engine on the drivers side, though there can be seepage elsewhere.

Check the CV boots to make sure they aren't torn. Small fix now before the joint gets all gritted up.

Check all fluids. Rear diff as well.

When as the timing belt done on this car. While they are scheduled at 105K miles, a 2001 would be overdue considering the years.

Good luck with the car. It has some serious storage room for your son to haul crap back and forth to college.

[nitroman58]

No, I did not have a mechanic check it as of yet.  It was recently traded in to a local dealer, and a wholesaler or "flipper" bought it.  I looked at the fluid levels, which seemed good.  I looked under the car as well with no leaks noted.

There is a Subaru dealer nearby but I wanted to try to get it to an good independent mechanic first.

I bought the car since it had everything that my son wanted, including a 5 speed trans.

What do you think the timing belt change would cost?  I think the dealer said $500.

[brus brother]

A mechanic familiar with Subarus (independent or dealer) would be best able to diagnose if there is a budding head gasket issue.

Are there any maintenance records that would indicate if the timing belt/water pump were done? Subaru of America may be able to access these records for you based on VIN#.

Common wisdom on the site is to do the HGs when you do the TB and replace the stock HG with the version designed for the turbo model. Definitely adds to the expense but also adds to the peace of mind.

There are many discussions on the issue here at USMB. It may never leak, it may leak next week.

This site gets reports and discusses problems. I am sure there are people driving around blissfully unaware and may never have the issue OR never think to report the issue when it occurs.

I have never seen any threads here from people who were seeking advice for a car that was running perfectly with no issues.

Don't mean to be an alarmist. Just mean to inform you here. Sincerely hope your purchase is worry free but for expert advice (mine not necessarily in this category) the members here are extremely helpful and generous with their expertise.

Edited December 14, 2014 by brus brother

[nitroman58]

Wow, thanks for the great advice. I am planning to make the deal next Thursday.  I do have the VIN number, and I will call Subaru.  I suspect that the timing belt has not been done based on the milage however.

[MilesFox]

With 80,000 mi, it is likely that routine service has not been performed, or was last performed at 30,000 or 60000 mi.

 

It is recommended to do the following at each mileage:

 

Front and rear diff every 30000 m i

transmission fluid 60,000 mi

factory fill coolant first time 36 mo then 24 mo thereafter.

 

If anything, change the coolant. Expect to service the timing belt by 10 years or 100,000 mi. Perhaps have that done, although the original belts can last beyond 100,000 mi, but the idlers or tensioners will fail first. Take this pooprtunity to service the water pump, (because you are already there) and change the coolant. If budget is an issue, at leas the belt itself and the idlers.

 

The original water pump can last beyond 200,000 mi so long as the  coolant changes are not neglected.

 

Regular coolant changes will help prevent any pattern head gasket issues. 

 

Be in the habit of checking fluid levels with coolant and oil;. Expect some oil consumption. A little is normal. Don't go a whole 3,000 or 5,000 mi between oil changes without CHECKING THE OIL, so that you don't come in with a low oil condition. You will  be surprised how many people run their car out of oil between each and every oil change, and then wonder why the car consumes.

 

Consider 10w40 for conventional oil in the summer, or better semi syn or full syn 5w40 or 0w40 on a 5,000 to 7,500 mi drain schedule (synthetic) but be sure to check and top off oil by every 2000 mi, or even better, check the oil at each fuel stop.

 

With 81,000 mi, the car was most likely traded in to avoid routine service. Be sure to catch up on the 100,000 mi maintenance routine to be certain for reliability. Otherwise expect to get about 20,000 mi out of it before you are up against the wall for recommended routine service.

 

This advice applies generally with any car, but withthe Subaru, being conscious of the timing belt service is most important

[nitroman58]

Thanks again.  My son will be taking it off to college about 200 miles away.  

I am okay putting some money into it, but what should I do now?  Miles, your answer is a little confusing.  Should I do the fluids such as oil, coolant, and rear diff first?  Or should I get the timing belt done now?  
He wants to head back to school in early January.

[brus brother]

Thanks again.  My son will be taking it off to college about 200 miles away.  

I am okay putting some money into it, but what should I do now?  Miles, your answer is a little confusing.  Should I do the fluids such as oil, coolant, and rear diff first?  Or should I get the timing belt done now?  

He wants to head back to school in early January.

Rear diff unaffected by TB or HG work. Honestly I am ashamed to say I haven't done my diff fluid in ... well never. Note to self...

If you just do the timing belt, the oil/coolant won't drain out.

If you decide to do the TB and HG together, the coolant will be drained out and can be changed at that time.

Once they open up the engine to do a HG job, changing the TB and idlers is right there. In other words, they have to remove the TB to do the HGs.

200 miles isn't that far BUT as I said earlier, not knowing the history, you can't predict when the tb or idlers will give out.

If the TB snaps or idlers give out and the engine jumps timing, you will smash the valves and cause serious damage . Search "interference engine".

After you do some noodling of the car's history, if the TB needs to be done, have the car inspected for any seepage around the area of the HGs. Even oil seeping will be a nuisance once it starts dripping on the exhaust. If finances are limited at this time, just do the TB/idler but if seepage, consider that you are halfway through the engine labor wise and should do the HGs.

Once done, you will have 105K miles of worry free driving.

You can then post something like "Nothing wrong with my car, just lonely so I thought I would visit the USMB" Best of luck to you and your son.

There are Subie mechanics at my local dealership that work after hours so I would ask around if you can't find a reputable indie with Subaru experience.

Edited December 14, 2014 by brus brother

[nitroman58]

Okay, thanks again for all the advice.

[MilesFox]

To clarify, the current mileage has not required the timing belt service. This is something you will want to address in 20,000 mi. Immediately within that interval, have the local oil change shop check your fluids. 

 

Based on mileage, the transmission should have been serviced at 60,000 mi. The color of the fluid can be some cluie to this at your fast luve (go to the ones you remain in the car). At least you can get these items inspected for much less than dealer shop rate and blind recommendations when you don't see the car.

 

So to be consice, have the fast luvbe look at the fluids and service the coolant or differential or trans based on the vehicles current mileage when compared to the recommended service schedule, and the current condition of the fluids.

 

The timing belt is not immediate until 100,000 mi, unless you want to do that pre-emptively to basically guarantee 100,000 mi of reliability.

 

Good luck

[nitroman58]

What is "fast luvbe"? Are you referring to the "Jiffy lube" type service?

[MilesFox]

What is "fast luvbe"? Are you referring to the "Jiffy lube" type service?

Fast lube in reference to those type of places, but preferrably one you drive thru and remain in the car during the service so you can interact with the service versus dropping the car and sitting in a waiting room while the service is performed. (I work at one of these places and i get excited when subarus come in )

 

My recommendation for this is the cost is much less than making appointments to the dealer for a general service such as a fluid change.

Edited December 15, 2014 by MilesFox

[nitroman58]

Okay, thanks for the tip.

[nipper]

Tires. Tires tires tires.

 

They should all match, be same brand, type, and wear. Once the car is warmed up a bit from driving, take it to a parking lot and do a full lock turn. It should take no throttle or very little throttle and no kick back from the steering wheel. It should just feel normal. Its important to this with a manual once the drive line has warmed up, as torque bind may not show up with a cold transmission as opposed to a warm once. If it passes this test (one of the two reasons subarus may be traded in at a subaru dealer) and the HG's arent leaking externally or internally, your golden. Everything else is just servicing.

[nitroman58]

Thanks. By a "full lock turn", do you mean to turn the steering way completely, and accelerate just slightly?

[nipper]

Yes full lock forward and reverse, with very litle or no throttle given on level ground. If there is a TB issue you would never be bale to keep the wheel at full lock without a fight.

[nitroman58]

Wow, great tip! Okay.

[nitroman58]

Today, the mechanic looked at the car. Tires and breaks were good. The radiator hoses need to be changed before the summer.

The timing belt is original and showing some cracks. It looks like the the timing belts and radiator hoses will get changed next week.

[Rooster2]

Today, the mechanic looked at the car. Tires and breaks were good. The radiator hoses need to be changed before the summer.

The timing belt is original and showing some cracks. It looks like the the timing belts and radiator hoses will get changed next week.

If you do a T/B, then suggest you change the water pump, as there is minimal additional labor time involved, and a new water pump is good insurance against a future W/P problem.

[mikec03]

There is another thing that you need to check.  On these old subarus, the brake lines often rust.  You will undoubtedly be checking the oil level frequently [to find out how much if any oil it uses] and when you do, mark the brake fluid reservoir level.  You should not see any drop in the level of course.  If it drops, then there is a leak.

[idosubaru]

1.  timing KIT, not the belt.  Gates kits on Amazon are only $115 - replace all the pulleys and tensioner, they do fail and at least one...if not all...of the originals will be devoid of grease and spin freely.

the water pump is overkill but not a bad idea, but the timing pulleys/tensioners are far more likely to fail than the pump.  if you do replace the pump use Subaru water pump gasket - the aftermarkets are flimsy cardboard.

 

2.  trans fluid.

 

3.  clean and regrease caliper pins

 

4.  if the radiator fluid is drained (hose replacement) - that engine requires Subaru Coolant Conditioner - order a bottle on line or local dealers have gobs of it.  follow directions on label.

[nitroman58]

I guess Amazon has the subaru coolant conditioner? What is the volume of that product?

[nitroman58]

Also, one of the tires has a slow leak.  I added air last Thursday, and brought the pressure to 29 PSI, today it read 26 PSI.  At this point, I do not know if it is the tire or the rim.