daugust Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hellloooo USMB. First off, thanks for all the advice on here. I've been lurking for awhile, probably should have posted something earlier but anyway... like before I bought this flesh-colored wagon. 1987 GL wagon, carbed, Hi Lo tranny and 125,480 miles and lots of...let's call it character so I don't start swearing lol. First mistake-- didn't drive it much, towed it home. Replaced (new parts) water pump (old one dead) timing belts plugs (NGK R) Wires Dist Rotor Battery Has 1/4 or so new gas with a bit of sea foam Used Weber DGAV 32/36 Carb, trans-dapt mounting plate, 130/130 jets. No choke. Doesn't have air filter on it meow. I've also ripped out the interior and cleaned out the critters' collection). Sheesh that was a PITA. It seems that either engine mounts were sheared or the bolts fell off?? One of them doesn't line up. There's a bit of crumple around the hood zone, and no grill. I did some compression tests, and they are loooow. ($25 Harbor Freight tool) I tried to give each cyl 10 cranks, and did each three times. Removed all plugs. Didn't do wet test, from what I've read (source:internet) boxxer engine doesn't give best results for that? I can probably figure it out if y'all think I ought to tho. 3-70, 60, 75 psi 4- 70, 80, 80 psi 1- 80, 60, 70 psi 2- 70, 70, 80 psi This was warm. (I also did the same test cold (like at 40 degrees) and they were all 100-110 psi what gives?? I did procedure same same, maybe there was moisture in there, it had been sitting for awhile?) Also, if I keep cranking, it will keep going 100+, but doesn't jump a whole lot the first crank, 10-20psi. If I let it idle, it will eventually stall out with fouled plugs after 15-20 minutes. With clean plugs, when I run it at 3500 or so rpm for a few minutes (in neutral, it ain't regstrd yet), the plugs look like this--(left to right 1,2,3,4 cylinder) Odd, no? The #2 looks healthy, but the others are blackened. I guess "fluffy" describes it. If it won't start, it has been bc plugs are fouled, and #3 has been wet fouled. This is what I think, but I the stump has been chumped, and I would like your input. 1. The carb needs adjusting. There may be a small vac leak. The idle mixture screw doesn't seem to make much difference, although I think I can hear a sucking sound when I screw it all the way in (idle screw in = less gas for idle?) 2. The engine needs a rebuild, and the plugs will continue to foul until that is done. Headgaskets came to mind? but the exhaust doesn't smell sweet by any means. It blows out a bit of white exhaust I guess. I have had to fill the coolant, but I figured that was just the cooling system filling in? Something to keep an eye on anyhow. me--> What do you think? Is there any other info I can provide? All input is welcome! I appreciate all your knowledge and have learned a ton lurking. Thanks A Bend, OR (ps hope the images are large enough, they look small in preview...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Well meow, I see what you did! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 If the head gasket / s blown to the cooling system, [most likely way for them to fail] you will get exhaust gasses pumped into the cooling system, bubbles in the recovery bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hsoj Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 To me it sounds like your piston rings might be pretty fouled and sticking if its all that even of a horrible compression test. Look for bubbles in the radiator and coolant bottle and any milkshake like oil for a headgasket. Fix your vacuum leak and adjust that carb! If you can get a cheap fuel air mixture meter hooked up it will help a bit. Seafoam in the pistons or marvel mystery oil to try to clean up the rings. The seafoam in the gas might not be enough to free the rings. You can run it 50 mi. or so using atf as oil and that might help ...after you know the vac leaks and carb are tuned right.... but I wouldn't go much farther. That sounds like its been run cold and rich for way to long. So you might have to clean the pcv really well, I've seen them clogged shut. Once you know its in proper tune, get it on the highway for a real good drive to heat up that motor for a bit, (not overheating it either..lol) it should clean itself out with a bit of seafoam in the gas and running at proper temp. You can run seafoam in the oil too as an oil detergent (though its more of a solvent). Go to redlineweber.com for your carb manual and tuning and make sure your float is in proper specs. I've never bought a new one that was in spec. It sounds like you're on the right track with your jets. Check diligently for leaks and any weird hissing noise cuz that will throw off the whole tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daugust Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 I haven't checked for bubbles in the cooling system, I will do that. Haven't done an oil change yet, but looks ok. Not a milkshake. How much marvel in the pistons do you think? A little dab'll do ya? I'll try that. Or seafoam if you think that's a better idea. ATF for oil sounds wild. I suppose that would be last resort. I'm going to f with the carb tomorrow...unless I go skiing that is, it's cold again so I might not want twerk on the car so much. I just dialed in the float level, it's in spec. The idle mixture screw didn't do much, but I'm pretty sure I heard more hissing as I screwed it in = vac leaks somewhere. Will clean PCV also, I'm pretty sure it needs it. Looks like I can get fuel/air mixture gauges for $30 (up to $300!). I'll keep that in mind. Thanks, I've got some direction now, much obliged. Will report back with deets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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