1990 Subaru Push Button 4-Wheel Drive does not light up all the time on dash

[Allanlester]

Our daughter is driving a 1990 Subaru Loyale push button 4-wheel drive with around 200,000 miles.  It has served her well since we bought it in 2011.  The green 4-wheel drive light in the center of the dash is not lighting up consistently when we press the 4-wheel drive button.  I believe it is engaging but not so sure all the time.  Any suggestions for solving this?  Thanks.

[DaveT]

I have not experienced that problem. I do have a couple of 3ATs with over 200,000 on them. The button fires a solenoid that routs ATF to the clutch to activate the rear drive. The pressure to that clutch also activates a switch that lights the light.

[mikaleda]

First we need to know weather its an auto or stick. The above is true for the auto, but not for the stick. The stick is vaccume actuated so the problem could be as simple as a loose or cracked vacumme hose.

It would be helpful to know for sure wether or not its engaging when the lights off and the button is engaged.

[Allanlester]

Thanks!  It is a manual.  Our daughter has the car this weekend and she says she will be able to know if it is engaged or not when the button is pressed.  I will know more later and will make another reply.  When I have the car over the holidays I will check the vacuum lines.  Now the vacuum lines.  I'll need to know where to look for those.  

[DaveT]

Ah, the only button 4wd I've seen are automatic. The standard shift cars had a lever.

[mikaleda]

I can't remember off the top off my head where the 4wd actuator is on the loyals, I think its on the firewall in the middle somewhere. I would go ahead and check all the vaccume lines for cracking and leaking just to be safe.

[Gloyale]

If it is going into and out of 4wd then the problem is just in the 4wd light switch. 

 

It's mounted in the rear of trans.  Easy to remove from underneath.

[Allanlester]

I so appreciate your comments!  What I have been experiencing is that it was taking an extended period of time for the light to come on that indicates it to be in 4WD.  The light did not light up right away as it had been doing.  However now it seems to not come on at all.  I will have the car after the holidays and will check out the suggestions you are making.  Would you suggest I check the vacuum hoses first and then if that does not work check the switch in the rear of the transmission.  Thank you!

[mikaleda]

Checking the vaccume lines is easy and free, I would start there.

[Allanlester]

Thanks, then that is where I begin!

[The-Big-E]

Looks like I'll be doing the same thing to my Loyale......  I know it's going into 4WD because I can hear and feel it disengage when I press the button the second time...

[scoobiedubie]

I experienced that problem.  In my case, the indicator would go on an off because the 4wd did not engage.  It did not engage because the vacuum pump that run the 4WD switches in the transmission, WERE SHOT.  So I replaced the vacuum pump and the problem was solved.  To find it, you just follow the lines from the transmission.  It sits in front of the driver, next to the firewall.

[Allanlester]

Thanks.  Would that be the engine side of the firewall on the drivers side?

[scoobiedubie]

Thanks.  Would that be the engine side of the firewall on the drivers side?

That would be the engine side.  Just follow the tubes from the round disc attached to the transmission.

[Allanlester]

Thanks, I will do that.

[Gloyale]

I experienced that problem.  In my case, the indicator would go on an off because the 4wd did not engage.  It did not engage because the vacuum pump that run the 4WD switches in the transmission, WERE SHOT.  So I replaced the vacuum pump and the problem was solved.  To find it, you just follow the lines from the transmission.  It sits in front of the driver, next to the firewall.

 

What are you TALKING ABOUT!!!

 

There is no "Vacuum pump" on these cars.  Or really any gas powered rigs (except maybe for cruise control...not applicable here)

 

And there are no "4wd switches" in the transmission to "run" anything.  It's a completely mechanical gear selection via a sychro/collar/fork setup activated by a cable operated lever on the rear OUTSIDE of the trans.  The cable is operate via vacuum diaphragm with vacuum supplied by the 2 solenoids.  One or the other solenoid is "on" at any given time....and the cable pulls to that direction for either 2wd or 4wd.

 

I think he's talking about the solenoids......but they don't often have issues.  And if the 4wd works they are not the issue.  Also....there would be no visible way to determine them "SHOT"

 

 

Allan, Don't listen to ScoobieDubie.........his advice is dubious at best, confounding at least, and complete misinformation at worst.

 

 

Try this..........go to a gravel parking lot.......Push 4wd button and drive in circles.....you should be able to tell if the 4wd is working (skipping rear tire on inside of turn)

 

If the 4wd works.........then the problem is in the switch on the back of the trans.

 

If the 4wd is not working.....then check the hose from the vacuum resevior to the solenoids....and from the solenoids down to the engagement diaphragm. It's the big round thing on side of trans.  2 hoses. one on each side of diaphragm.

Edited December 24, 2014 by Gloyale

[mikaleda]

I was thinking that a vaccume pump on a gas powered car was strange. Vaccume pumps are usually found on deisles since deisles don't create vaccume. Since I've been quite wrong about Subaru's of this era lately I didn't say anything until I saw a few more posts.

 

Gloyal, I think you were a bit harsh on scoobiedubie, nothing he said required such brashness. On the other hand correcting his post is totally reasonable to keep it from confusing the original poster.

 

Its Christmas time! Be cheerful!

 

To the OP, gloyal knows what he's talking about I would follow his advice.

[Gloyale]

 

 

Gloyal, I think you were a bit harsh on scoobiedubie, nothing he said required such brashness. On the other hand correcting his post is totally reasonable to keep it from confusing the original poster.

 

 

 

I didn't mean to be "harsh"

 

 

I am not judging anything except the information he has posted here on the forum. 

 

I've seen enough from him now to be sure he needs to read and learn more before trying to advise and if he does people should take it with a metric ton of salt.

 

I have seen many, many posts of "advice" from him that range from slightly incorrect to flat out wrong and troublesome.  I don't want to see people mess up their cars or their LIVES listening to his advice.

 

I have nothing against him, or ANY board member personally.  You are all my subaru friends and I will happily meet and greet and share subaru fun and awesomeness w/ anyone.  I love you guys.  (except Monstaru....Brian you're a rumproast   ) 

[scoobiedubie]

As you can see in Gloyales world, he is always right and everyone else is always wrong.  As I recall, he is one of those lunatics who believes that you don't need to add a little sealant to the oil distribution holes between the camtower and the cylinder head, in order to quiet the engine.  Even though I have tried it both ways and concluded that you need the sealant, he claims that I am wrong, in his infinite wisdom.  Same with this 4WD, problem.  Since his superego does not permit himself to be wrong, he claims that since the particular "thingamajig" that I am referring to and has vacuum hoses plugged into it, "DON'T OFTEN HAVE ISSUES", therefore they could not possibly have gone bad.  And yet from my own personal experience of replacing that "thingamajig" that was attached to the transmission with what appeared to be vacuum lines, THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY.  I think that I paid no more than about $10 for the used "thingamajig" at the junk yard, and I saved myself a pile of ripoff mechanics fees, from some creative mechanic who can't keep track of his own time.

[Gloyale]

As you can see in Gloyales world, he is always right and everyone else is always wrong.  As I recall, he is one of those lunatics who believes that you don't need to add a little sealant to the oil distribution holes between the camtower and the cylinder head, in order to quiet the engine.  Even though I have tried it both ways and concluded that you need the sealant, he claims that I am wrong, in his infinite wisdom.  Same with this 4WD, problem.  Since his superego does not permit himself to be wrong, he claims that since the particular "thingamajig" that I am referring to and has vacuum hoses plugged into it, "DON'T OFTEN HAVE ISSUES", therefore they could not possibly have gone bad.  And yet from my own personal experience of replacing that "thingamajig" that was attached to the transmission with what appeared to be vacuum lines, THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY.  I think that I paid no more than about $10 for the used "thingamajig" at the junk yard, and I saved myself a pile of ripoff mechanics fees, from some creative mechanic who can't keep track of his own time.

 

First you said attached to firewall.  Now you say attached to transmission.

 

And at no point have demonstrated an applied knowledge of the system, it's parts, and their functions.  Nor can you accurately describe where they are located let alone know what the above part is called.

 

For these reasons I said to ignore your advice.  I stand by that.

 

Do what you want to your own car.  But just because it's what you choose to do doesn't make it "good advice"

 

My advice on the other hand is ALWAYS based in actual information from Subaru manuals unless I state otherwise.....which I do when something is MY OPINION and not fact from the manufacturer.

 

And FWIW, Subaru did not use and does not recommend sealant anywhere except the outer groove when installing camshaft carriers to EA82 heads. The reason is to avoid "smush" of sealant into oil gallery.  If using sealnat improved anything for you, there was another problem in the head or carrier....and you temporaily masked it.

Edited December 25, 2014 by Gloyale

[Allanlester]

Okay folks,

     it is not my intention to create the tone of engagement that we are all witnessing and beholden to and would prefer to conduct these interchanges in a respectful manner.  The car is presently in my daughters possession until her travels to Ecuador on Dec. 30. We have time to figure out the protocol.  I have received considerable wisdom from all of you and am ever so thankful.  I will post again after I have performed some of the tests and examinations that have been recommended.

In appreciation,  Allan 

[Allanlester]

The resolution of the push button four wheel drive engagement problem has been resolved.  I discovered that when I pushed the button on the stick shift neither the indicator light lit up on the dash nor did the rear wheels engage.  I brought it to a local mechanic shop and within 30 minutes, or about $50., they found a vacuum line that had become disconnected.  The line was at a junction in front of the window wiper motor on the driver side/engine side of the firewall.  You have all assisted me greatly with this.  Thank you.  Allan LaValier

Edited January 9, 2015 by Allanlester

[Gloyale]

Great.  Thanks for the update.

 

This has been a good example thread of simple inspection with the right information solving a problem with an easy fix.

 

And of why it's not a good idea to start willy-nilly buying and replacing parts you don't know what they are or what they do on a "hunch" or because "it worked" for someone else.

[mikaleda]

Checking the vaccume lines is easy and free, I would start there.

As I said from the begging.

This is the number one cause of non engagement of 4wd in any vaccume accuated system

[sull]

As I said from the begging.

This is the number one cause of non engagement of 4wd in any vaccume accuated system

 

Same thing just happened to me. Freaked out as I went out for errands and decided to test the 4WD since its been a while and it did not engage and no light. Got home, looked under the hood and found a disconnected vacuum hose. Works fine once re-connected. Phew!