86subaru Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Is there a difference in years of knock senors.like from 99 to 95? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 I broke the connector.off by mistake used a different one .car runs worse know .any help? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) They're the same. Sometimes replacement ones look a bit different, or have a second connector at the sensor itself. But 95-99 (actually 90-04) will have the white single prong plug for the sensor. Make sure the mating surface on the block is clean as that's how the sensor grounds and listens for knocks. Edited December 27, 2014 by 987687 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Make sure the total length of the spliced wires are close. There have been two different styles of connectors on the knock sensor tho. O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 99 usually has a plug directly on the sensor. 98 and earlier have a 6" pigtail on the sensor with either a 1 or 2 pin plug at the end. Only one wire on all of them but its easier to match the replacement to what you have. If you're in a pinch and need the car to run right to to RadioShack and get some resistors and connect them in series to get somewhere around 580Kohms. Hook that up in place of the knock sensor and the ECU will come out of limp mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 Ok thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 99 usually has a plug directly on the sensor. 98 and earlier have a 6" pigtail on the sensor with either a 1 or 2 pin plug at the end. Only one wire on all of them but its easier to match the replacement to what you have. If you're in a pinch and need the car to run right to to RadioShack and get some resistors and connect them in series to get somewhere around 580Kohms. Hook that up in place of the knock sensor and the ECU will come out of limp mode. Interesting, I didn't know that. I'll keep that in my toolbox of hacks to get broken cars moving again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 It jus tricks the ECU into thinking the sensor is there. You can run it indefinitely but you lose knock correction so you have to keep an ear out for pinging. If it pings constantly you'll want to put a new sensor in it ASAP. I made one semi-permanent to use for testing purposes. It's been hooked up on my 96 for over a year. It pings on occasion when its hot outside, so ill hook up the knock sensor when I notice it pinging and see if the car feels any different. Very slightly less power with the knock sensor hooked up instead of the resistor when its hot outside. When its cold out I don't notice any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Interesting. Have you tried putting in a higher octane gas in warmer temps to see if the pinging goes away? If that's the case you may actually gain a touch of power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Interesting. Have you tried putting in a higher octane gas in warmer temps to see if the pinging goes away? If that's the case you may actually gain a touch of power. Can't remember honestly. I may have tried mid-grade, but If I did it was only once. I guess if it had made a difference I would have kept using mid-grade! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I had replaced the knock sensor in my '00obw with a resistor for a few years. I was running 91 all the time (mainly since it was ethanol free). It never seemed to knock but it definitely pinged, mainly when it was hot out like you said and at low rpm's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 It never seemed to knock but it definitely pinged Different word for the same thing.... The knock sensor doesn't detect rod knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Ping = knock = spark knock = detonation = valve rattle = pinging. There are a few other names too but those are the common ones. All the same, all caused by the same thing. Knock sensor looks for those. Rod knock (heavy Thock type knock from the bottom end) and piston slap (another heavy knock, a bit more dull/muffled than rod knock) are totally different from spark knock. Knock sensor can't detect rod knock or piston slap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 (edited) Oh ok thanks I never realized knock and ping were the same thing. Hm maybe I better put that sensor back in. C:\Users\porcupine73>ping knock Ping could not find knock. Please check the name and try again. Edited December 31, 2014 by porcupine73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 LOL chris@sric:~$ ping knock ping: unknown host knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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