subarusaver Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 O.K. , I've read all the posts I can find on here( feel free to direct me to one I've missed), and none seem to cover my issue...I have a 1985 Gl-10 Wagon 4wd dual range 5 speed w/a1.8 EA82 from an 89 dl,carb'd. My problem is with the heater control head, there is apparently a short internally. I checked the relay, it is fine.I can hold the relay in my left hand and tap on the control unit with a screwdriver and feel the relay click and sometimes turn on..It works fine when the weather is warm, but when I need it most, like below 32°f it will not work.I may have to use a jumper in place of the relay, but would rather fix the problem so it works correctly..............Anyone have an idea or parts? Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Try another fan speed control switch. That was issue with the blower not always wanting to run in mine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
532matt Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 My heater relay was bad after I replaced the switch and only had speed #3 working. Ordered new relay and while in shipment took old part out and overlapped the coil that was broken. Was a cold ride in that morning before problem was discovered 8 degrees to be exact!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarusaver Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thanks for the input.My fan speed switch has no problems,it works on ALL FOUR speeds perfectly.the blower works EVERY time I short the blower relay,so the blower motor is fine.The DEFECTIVE part in question is the heater control head.It contains electrical AND vacuum parts inside of it.The control head sends a signal or makes the connection for the blower to turn on....IT is NOT sending any signal out.I have removed it from the dash(that was a pain)and disassembled it close to all the way apart,I am a little scared at this point because if I break it , I'm screwed...................ANY Parts or help Greatly appreciated..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatfourx4 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Can you pull the relay apart? The relay has a "contact-point" (i.e. points in an old ignition distributor). Use a "contact-file, or piece of fine sand paper to "file" the points. Sometimes those points get a "burn" on tuem and prevent them from making "contact" when the electromagnet pulls them into contact. Even though ot still functions on one part (electromagnet side) it will not allow 12v to flow out to the fan. I have rebuilt many in the past and either feel that may be the issue, or the brushes on the fan motor, have become "glazed." Using quotation marks for emphasis. Good luck! With a few picks and/or flathead screwdrivers an old-fashioned relay will open up an you will see that there isn't much to them. Relays take a small induction curren and allow a larger curren to "connect." What this means is this: 12v @0.3 Amps from the switch, through a relay, allows 12v @5-20 Amps to reach the fan motor. One side of the relay is "low-amps" and the other side is "higher-amps." Hope this helps and good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatfourx4 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Sorry for the spelling errors....big thumbs and little phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I will try to remember to look for the old unit I took out of the Wagon, after I get back here from work today. Vac side of it is broke, but I believe the electrical side was still good. When I 1st got the Wagon, I couldn't change modes, but the blower worked. Pulled unit and found it was broke in several places. Fan speed switch failed later. If I still have it, I can send it your way for the cost of shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarusaver Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Can you pull the relay apart? The relay has a "contact-point" (i.e. points in an old ignition distributor). Use a "contact-file, or piece of fine sand paper to "file" the points. Sometimes those points get a "burn" on tuem and prevent them from making "contact" when the electromagnet pulls them into contact. Even though ot still functions on one part (electromagnet side) it will not allow 12v to flow out to the fan. I have rebuilt many in the past and either feel that may be the issue, or the brushes on the fan motor, have become "glazed." Using quotation marks for emphasis. Good luck! With a few picks and/or flathead screwdrivers an old-fashioned relay will open up an you will see that there isn't much to them. Relays take a small induction curren and allow a larger curren to "connect." What this means is this: 12v @0.3 Amps from the switch, through a relay, allows 12v @5-20 Amps to reach the fan motor. One side of the relay is "low-amps" and the other side is "higher-amps." Hope this helps and good luck. PLEASE read the post....I have taken the relay apart, changed it out etc. etc . The relay is NOT getting ANY voltage from the switch that is in question....Thanks for the thought though.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Have you checked the Fusibles? There is also one externally placed, nearby the other two A/C relays, on the engine Bay. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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