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Hey guys! 2nd time subby owner (jdm and now usdm) I'm having some electrical issues with this subbie. Hopefully someone can shed some light.


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I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback. 2.5L NA 5MT    about 163xxxKM on it. I bought this for 500$ as my winter beater because the lady friend and myself just bought a house, so I sold my Jdm subby for some of the down payment for the new place.  The previous owner was a 16 year old that decided he was going to try and be an electrician. Now its my job to undo his awesomeness!   (car mechanically is fantastic. Cv's, tyrods, rotors, pads, tires, timing belt (new clutch) trans linkage etc are all in good condition.

 

The couple issues that I'm dealing with are as follows.

 

1 - All of the Driving lights  (when the steering column is switched to any of the 3 options) do Not turn on.   I've repeatedly switched them on and off to see if they just got stuck.   I'm curious if a relay could be the cause here or is there a way to test the switch its self.   (headlights, signal lights, brake lights all work)

 

2 -  The windshield wiper *washer fluid* for both the rear window and the from window have been switched.  ex: In order to put washer fluid on my front window, I have to use the rear window washer fluid toggle and vica versa.   Is there a switch that was installed backwards or should I open up the steering column and switch those 2 actuator wires? (if thats the case does anyone have a diagram for which colors they are?)

 

3 - Dash lights wouldn't come on.  Found out after opening up the dash that they didn't reconnect the illumination wire when they reinstalled the stock stereo system.  I wired this one to *ignition on* for ease of purpose.

 

4 - Speedo will be registering the proper km/h and then either bounce around OR drop dead completely and the time before coming back on is between 5 seconds and 30 minutes.  (going to check the speedo sensor that bolts to the transmission to see if its loose.

 

5 - Suspension was lowered and very gently rubs tires on occasion.    Am I able to install a 99 Forester strut and spring? give it some lift while also firming up the suspension a little? Does anyone have any for sale?

 

6 - the window switches on the drivers door.  They all work, but the plastic toggle cover for the "Auto" drivers switch fell off. I was wondering if anyone had a spare or knew where I could order one?   I've spent a couple hours searching for this and the only thing I could find was 90$ + shipping for the whole window switch assembly.

 

7 - Tumblers in both driver and passengers door are rather loose by my standard.   Sometimes takes some wiggling.

 

8 - Tumbler in the steering column binds when turning the ignition off and you need to give it some wiggling

 

*For both 7 and 8,  are these standard tumblers?   Grab them from a locksmith, rekeyed for your car, pop in and good to go? Or are these specialty items like i was told by a subaru guy (but not a professional)

 

I'm very sorry if this is posted in the wrong spot! Usually I give advice on a forum, rarely have I needed to ask for help.

 

I thank everyone in advanced for any advice given!

 

Have a great new year all =)

 

Frosty from Canada.

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Lots going on there. Let's see if we can figure some out.

1. You're saying the marker lights don't work? Yellow lights on the front corners, and the red lamps on the rear corners and trunk/tailgate?

 

2. Both washer pumps are on the same reservoir under the hood, and fairly close to each other. The PO could have switched the plugs on them or replaced the hoses and connected them to the work pump.

 

3. The dash lights work now? Generally when people try to install an aftermarket stereo they hook up the stock illumination wire and blow out the illumination control unit, then you get no dash lights until you replace the module. Its a small black box usually mounted to the knee panel cover under the steering column.

 

4. Speedometer problems are common in the 99 model year. There is a broken solder joint on the back of the speedo head that is fixable if you can solder. There is a thread here called "99 speedometer fix" or something like that. If you can't find it here try google.

 

5. Yes you can put in Forester strut/spring assemblies. You may need to swap the top mounts on the rear struts, but other than that they bolt up just fine.

 

6. You'll only find that as a whole assembly. Check in the parts for sale section here because people part out those cars fairly often.

 

7-8. Lock cylinders can be removed and taken to a locksmith for repair. The door cylinders are always kinda iffy on these cars. Sometimes a new key from a dealer helps, they can order a key cut based on the VIN. Though that assumes the locks have never been switched out.

 

The hangup when turning off could be because the key needs to be pushed in slightly, and there may be some crud in the cylinder that is preventing it from pushing in all the way. Maybe try a little shot of WD 40 or PB on the cylinder and work it on/off a few times to see if it frees up. If not, remove it and take it to a locksmith.

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on # 2 - try swapping the hoses on the washer pumps - my bet is they were disconnected at some point and reconnected wrong.

 

# 6 - if you cant find anyone in the buy/sell/trade here with some window switches, try www.car-part.com - used will be much cheaper than new.

 

#'s 7 & 8 - I was gonna ask how worn is the key? worn out keys can often cause problems that a freshly cut key can sometimes fix (fresh cut from VIN, not a copy!)

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First of all I would like to say Thank you very much FairTax4Meand Heartless.   I really appreciate it!   

 

1 -  None of the marker lights in the front corners, back corners and tailgate work. The brake lights, signal lights and headlights do work though.  Which leads me to believe its a relay or something that would control that 1 specific duty.

 

2 - I will definitely try doing that tomorrow, I never even thought about them being the same reservoir!

 

3 - When I removed the headunit for the stereo, I noticed (if memory serves correctly) It was a yellow wire that was cut. It was the only wire that wasn't hooked back up and I couldn't find the other end of it. Thus I tested it with a power source and the illumination for everything Except the head unit came on  (which is alright because I'll be switching to an mp3 deck shortly) Its now hooked up to an ignition on power source.

 

4 - Perfect, i'll look that up.    I'll also check the sensor on the passengers side of the transmission.    When in doubt, check all connections that can be damaged, loose or dirty! lol

 

5 - Thank you =)   I'll check out the for sale section for an affordable set of forester springs and struts.

 

6 - If I can find the plastic switch cover on www.car-part.com or the for sale section, I'll probably just take one of my rear window switch covers as a replacement for the time being.

 

7, 8 - I have 3 keys for the car, original locks and ignition.   One key is 6 months old, another key is about 8-10 years old and the third key is original to the car. For the ignition, I can push in and turn back,  but it gets caught like the parts are loose. For the two front doors, i have to almost violently wiggle up and down while turning until it starts turning, then everything is smooth like butter.   Just feels loose.

 

I'll try the wd40 and clean the old girl out  (I may as well give all the hinges a good lubing as well while i'm at it).

 

Thanks again guys and I'll keep you updated =)

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For the parking lights, assuming all fuses are good, check to see of the parking lamp switch on top of the column works. If not, that switch could be unplugged. Power for all of the parking lights runs through that switch even when its in the "off" position.

 

For the dash lights, Illumination module is probably cooked. Also assuming all fuses are good.

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Dash lights get their ground through the radio, it's the last item in the circuit.  If you remove the ground, there is voltage sitting at the end of the wire looking for a ground!  Find the factory wiring and you will see it.

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Thank you both! I'll check the factory wiring harness and the parking light switch on the column in the morning.  I've changed every rough looking or popped fuse that i could find, but it wouldn't hurt to reinspect them all if in case theres a short.

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7, 8 - I have 3 keys for the car, original locks and ignition.   One key is 6 months old, another key is about 8-10 years old and the third key is original to the car. For the ignition, I can push in and turn back, but it gets caught like the parts are loose. For the two front doors, i have to almost violently wiggle up and down while turning until it starts turning, then everything is smooth like butter.   Just feels

loose.

 

the 6 mo old key is more than likely a copy made from one of the other, worn out keys - the older and original keys are probably very worn - points arent as "crisp" as they should be - make a copy of that and the "new" copy is going to have the same problems...

it is pretty rare for the lock tumblers to wear out - it does happen, but not often - it is usually the keys that are the problem. the metal the keys are made of wears much faster than the lock tumblers do - by design - keys are much easier (and cheaper) to replace than locksets.

 

getting a brand new key, freshly cut using the VIN (NOT a copy!), will restore all the proper points so the tumblers move like they are supposed to.

A good locksmith can sometimes do the job, with the right information, or go to a dealer and get them to cut you a fresh one.

 

Had a similar issue on my 1990 Legacy LS.  Door locks were a real chore to unlock - had to fight with them, wiggle the key around, up/down/in/out - sometimes it would work fairly quickly, other times it took several minutes - it sucked. It was so bad I hated to lock the car, even when I really needed to.

 

I had an original key that had numbers stamped into it - I took that to a locksmith and he was able to cut me a brand new key from those numbers - not a copy - walked out to the car and tried it - the new key worked beautifully - key slid in easily, lock turned without having to fight with it, key came out easily. I had him cut me a second key right away to have as a spare.

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5. 98-02 forester springs are softer than outback, the rear struts are also shorter than 96-99 outback. I have posted pictures in a few different threads illustrating this. 03-08 forester is the suspension you want for a firmer ride.

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Thanks for the input Heartless! after work tomorrow i'll get a new key using the vin. =)

 

Thank you 86BratMan.     This legacy outback has had a lowering kit installed but the struts are very soft.  Almost feels like the car floats on the highway. I'll definitely be looking for the 03 - 08 forester struts and springs.

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Okay! I didn't get to tinker much as I was busy today... But I did try out the marker lights *switch*     If I turn it on,  the marker lights come on.  If I shut off the car and close the door, the lights stay on.

 

If I turn the switch Off,    they don't come on regardless of if I have the headlight switch Off,  Markers only on or headlights on.

 

Is that normal?

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With the parking light switch on the lights will stay on regardless.

 

That much works, which is good.

That narrows it down to either a bad tail lamp and illumination relay, ( in the dash fuse panel) or possibly a bad contact in the park lamp switch.

 

Even when the park lamp switch is off, current for the marker lamps still runs through a set of contacts in the switch.

 

Check the relay first.

 

Download a copy of the service manual for the 99 legacy here so you can have the wire diagrams: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

 

Parking lamps are covered under Lighting system (clearance light and illumination light)

Edited by Fairtax4me
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