legacy93wagon Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) My lasts posts on here where about tracking down a trans. Got one, got it in, and a new rear diff. Since have put 70k on my Good friend. Recently I had some minor stuters and such. . . Noticed my spark plug wires are dated 92 :0P got that resolved, + plugs from dealer. that and some basic regular stuff liek fuel filter and air filter. Car was her old self for about another 5k miles. Recently she has been not wanting to start easily ( most often when warm, IE: after 30+ miles of driving, then parked for quick trip into store and back out) she will either start and stall, or starter will have to turn longer than normal , and require a little gas from the accelerator pedal to fire up. Once going she drives fine and is currently getting 23-27 mpg which is better that what she got when I bought her over 100k miles ago. I Kind of Dealt with the starting issue for a while. . . But today When I got home I turned off the car and there remained a grinding + whirring noise from the car. I left it alone for about 10 Minutes while I unloaded. It continued. About 15 minutes later started the car back up, let it idle a little, then shut it off. Noise remained. Was able to track it down to Edit: ABS pump thing front right of engine compartment ( vehicles right not mechanic perspective) I unpluged the electrical to it, noise stopped ( did not want it to burn up or kill the battery) So . . .any of you kind subaru lovers Know what is going on ? Had this issue + resolved it, have theories based on more knowledge than I have ? what I have done briefly before I lost daylight: - checked fluids - checked for fuel leaks in engine compartment Thanks so much for first reading my long post, and thanks even more if you have advice, input or questions :0) ( pictures to follow when wife gets home with camera and she can hold flashlight for me) Edited February 1, 2015 by Turbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 if you mean the 'box' that sits on the passenger side of the car, opposite of where the battery is - that is the ABS unit (antilock brakes) - and mine just did the same thing as yours on my 95 a week or so ago... stayed on making weird noises. not really sure what caused/causes it, havent really dug into it yet... FWIW - This has absolutely nothing to do with your starting issue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 if you mean the 'box' that sits on the passenger side of the car, opposite of where the battery is - that is the ABS unit (antilock brakes) - and mine just did the same thing as yours on my 95 a week or so ago... stayed on making weird noises. not really sure what caused/causes it, havent really dug into it yet... FWIW - This has absolutely nothing to do with your starting issue. EXACTLY WHAT IT IS. Thank you. Come to think of it the ABS light popped on during the first leg of my drive today. I guess I will keep looking into this. and I will post here If I find a solution for the both of us! I guess on the other starting issues, you or any other that fnd this post has some diagnostic tips or thoughts for those issues on a car of this age and make ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 my ABS light has been on since before I got the car - wiring is broken off at a couple of the wheel sensors and I am too cheap (broke) to replace them. not a huge deal for me, I grew up with non-ABS cars - the brakes still work just fine with out it - and I dont have to get it inspected so no worries there either. that control box going goofy was just one of those things. I did what you did, unplugged the electrical to save my battery. If i recall correctly, there have been a couple of posts in the fairly recent past involving warm start issues...maybe a search is in order? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 my ABS light has been on since before I got the car - wiring is broken off at a couple of the wheel sensors and I am too cheap (broke) to replace them. not a huge deal for me, I grew up with non-ABS cars - the brakes still work just fine with out it - and I dont have to get it inspected so no worries there either. that control box going goofy was just one of those things. I did what you did, unplugged the electrical to save my battery. If i recall correctly, there have been a couple of posts in the fairly recent past involving warm start issues...maybe a search is in order? did a few querries before I searched. Thanks for the term " warm start" so I can hopefully find better results. Thanks again to all who have replied so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 If a Mod is lurking and catches this could you please change the thread title to match what I have been notified is the whirring ? Also to make the thread more easily searched for future users looking for stuff like this ? "93 subaru legacy non turbo 2.2 ABS pump stays on+ warm start issues?" Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 ABS had a common problem in the early 90s. You can try swapping the relay under the small black cover on the unit. If that doesn't fix it just leave it unplugged or leave the relay out. Unless you need to pass safety inspection, then you'll want to put a used ABS unit in and hope for the best. Warm start problem sounds like a dead ECT sensor. Common and fairly cheap and easy to replace. Behind below the intake manifold on the passenger side where the wiring runs under the manifold there are two sensors sticking out of the coolant crossover pipe on top of the block. The one with the redish/brown plug is the sensor for the ECU and helps it determine fuel ratio. When it goes bad the ECU thinks the engine is always cold, and it floods the engine with fuel. Opening the throttle allows extra air in and leans out the mixture in the cylinders enough to start, then once it starts it may be a bit rough for a few seconds then run OK. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) Sorry I have not updated in a while, Been doing a little warm start issue research. Have had some stutters under acceleration from stop usually when AC is on. Some time in the next two weeks I plan to have my check list of " did you try a ____?" and "did you check a ________?" posted , and start working through it. So ECT sensor : http://www.amazon.com/OEM-9340-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B000CSOIEY/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1425440298&vehicle=1993-13-64-96--16-6--185-120--1-421--1-0&sr=1-4&ymm=1993%3Asubaru%3Alegacy Look right? That will be the first attempt. Also thinking to clean the Mass Airflow Sensor with this stuff : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J19XSA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Edited March 4, 2015 by legacy93wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakedpotatoechips99 Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 As far as your ABS issue goes. I had to remove the fuse for the ABS unit in a couple of older '95 legacy A.W.D wagons to stop the buzzing. At some point in the future, maybe after rebuilding the brake calipers, I don't fully recall, but I think I was able to re-install the fuse in at least one of those cars and got no buzzing, and functional ABS again. I think one had a front ABS sensor that had it's wires cut, which I repaired/spliced back together. I advise scanning the O.B.D. codes for issues with sensors and your "warm issues". Then, you may have a general clue as to which sensors may be of concern. Also, valve cover gaskets can leak into the spark plug tubes and cause misfire, but possibly clear up as the engine heats up and run well again. Only to cause trouble the next starting cycle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) As far as your ABS issue goes. I had to remove the fuse for the ABS unit in a couple of older '95 legacy A.W.D wagons to stop the buzzing. At some point in the future, maybe after rebuilding the brake calipers, I don't fully recall, but I think I was able to re-install the fuse in at least one of those cars and got no buzzing, and functional ABS again. I think one had a front ABS sensor that had it's wires cut, which I repaired/spliced back together. I advise scanning the O.B.D. codes for issues with sensors and your "warm issues". Then, you may have a general clue as to which sensors may be of concern. Also, valve cover gaskets can leak into the spark plug tubes and cause misfire, but possibly clear up as the engine heats up and run well again. Only to cause trouble the next starting cycle. I am 90% sure it is a broken cable or sensor. Had to pull off the interstate onto rough shoulder at 70 MPH, hard breaking + rough surface, that is when the light kicked on, then that night the buzzing. Just moved, and have not found my ramps yet. Thanks so much for pointing me in a direction closer to a solution. I know for a fact my valve covers are leaking oil, So that too is nice to know. I will have to tackle that one soon as well. Edited March 6, 2015 by legacy93wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) UPDATE ABS AND WARM START ISSUES. - ABS Pump: cleaned up and verified ABS sensor connections, reconnected ABS pump connection passenger side, pump no longer stays on, ABS light went off * note I don't know if cleaning connection did squat or just one of those leaving it alone long enough reset something. - Warm start issue: Due to what was available locally I Started by cleaning the mass airflow sensor with Product linked above. Warm start / stutter from stop still occurs. * about to go out and start on valve cover gaskets, other sensors will not be here until Tuesday. Found what I thought was a helpful video for the valve cover gasket job : Edit: Replaced valve cover gaskets. . . Did the job twice as found out I was handed the wrong part at the auto parts store . . . reciept said the right number, but some how made it out the door with the wrong gaskets. Will see Monday if that resolves anything I have going on :0) Thanks again for all the help and thoughts so far. If you have a thought feel free to chime in, If you have a related issue feel free to post I will not consider it a thread jack. :0) Edited March 9, 2015 by legacy93wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 After valve cover gaskets, and mass air sensor cleaning issues seemed worse. Stutters and nearly stall when acceleration resumed from stop, HOWEVER after about 30 miles I had my last few stop the resume accell go well no stutter. Also parked the car long enough to let the dog run around in some vacant lots a while, It started right up. Not calling it success or failure for that repair just yet. needs a few more drives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Something to do with the dog?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 ok so all previously mentioned " did you try a . . . " repair attempts still left the car with warm start issues, and occasional stutter and stalls from say stop sign / red light resume acceleration. Last thing tried was the PCV valve ( old one still moved so not likly the issue) AND the COIL PACK. Not an issue since :0D Also picked up a newer subaru for my wife. 1998 subaru outback. took a picture, but don't have it on the interwebs yet to link into this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Just because a PCV Valve still moves does not mean it's working right. If it's too weak it can be letting way to much blow in from the crank case. If the spring is too gummed up it can be letting crank case pressure build higher than it should before opening up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indianacolt Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Hey thanks yall very helpful! Sounds like I will check that ect sensor!Think I may have mechanic I can trust maybe this week also! Near Louisville Ky. if anyone has any good references if he falls through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy93wagon Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Hey thanks yall very helpful! Sounds like I will check that ect sensor!Think I may have mechanic I can trust maybe this week also! Near Louisville Ky. if anyone has any good references if he falls through. in cambellsville I have two fair mechanics. But you tube it. these are two very easy items to swap. and with amazon together below $50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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