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Questions on building my own loyale lift kit


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    In looking at my 93 Subee. I can see where I need to ad blocks to lower the motor and the tranny cross member but no one has ever said anything about the strut rods that go from the lower control arms to the frame. These are bolt on and I'm guessing that they would have to be lowered as well.

 

  My other question is the driveline carrier bearing mount. If you lower the tranny and rearend it would put the driveline at an odd angle if the mount was not lowered as well? I plan to lower all the suspension mounts 2" and add a 3" strut lift for a net difference of 1" change in CV axle height angle.

  

  I plan to make most of the parts out of 2"x2" and 3"x2" by 3/16" wall tubing. Any thoughts? Any thing I'm missing here or problems to look out for. Will I run into shifter linkage problems? I know i have to extend the steering linkage but not sure of anything else.

Edited by Fish-N-Fool
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Yea I know I can but I want more tire clearance then that as I want to put on a set of Lt 235/60/R15 tires I have that are mounted on 6 lug 1/2 ton Chevy 4x4 Chrome spokes,  plus I don't want to stress the CV axles that much. I can't get them to last at stock height now.

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I think the rods your talking about are the radius rods.  they go at a angle from the lower control arm  to the frame under the door area.  they keep the lower control arm from wandering too far back and forth.  most people don't drop them for smaller lifts, but I would get them at least close to the full drop.  

 

without knowing exactly what amount of material you have id say 3 inches on all struts and the engine crossmember, 2 inches on trans mount, radius rod, carrier, and rear diff.  3 inch xmember drop means little stress on the axles, 2 inches or less on the trans means minimal modification for the 4wd linkage, 2 inches on radius rods will keep the suspension more stock without hanging them down too far.  rear axles are a little more forgiving since you don't use them often and they don't have to turn side to side.

 

the 1 piece driveline could be made at any driveline shop, but nothing wrong with the 2 piece as long as it works.  watch out for the angle though, carrier bearings like to work at certain angles, and straight isn't always best.

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id say 3 inches on all struts and the engine crossmember, 2 inches on trans mount, radius rod, carrier, and rear diff.  3 inch xmember drop means little stress on the axles, 2 inches or less on the trans means minimal modification for the 4wd linkage, 2 inches on radius rods will keep the suspension more stock without hanging them down too far.

How could you drop the engine X member 3 " and the tranny mount only 2" that would put it in a bind as far as I can see it.

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