tjohnson Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 How do you remove a woodruff key on a 1990 Subaru legacy wagon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) first you remove the pulley and timing sprocket, then the key is easy. if there is no damage to the parts, a tap on the front of the sprocket may loosen it. spray lube will help. DO NOT break the tabs on the rear of the sprocket. i used a harmonic balancer puller the first time, but only because i had no experience with it. you do not really need one. if there is grunge on the shaft you can clean it up with very fine steel wool or sand paper. Edited February 9, 2015 by johnceggleston 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjohnson Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks for the reply on the woodruff key removal,as far as the timing sprocket do I have to approach the job like I'm removing the timing belt , or is there a less invasive way to install the new key? The 90 Legacy has been a Great car , so I've done very few repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 You must removen teh timing belt to get to the crank sprocket adn key. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 why replace the key? has the timing jumped due to the sprocket , key and key way being messed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjohnson Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) The front 1/2 of the woodruff key sheared off due to pulley bolt coming loose , pulley now has nothing to lock on to & just spins, key way not damaged,I've already received new key from dealer & I'm looking for best way to remove damaged key & install new one. Looks like old key is partially under TB sprocket Edited February 12, 2015 by tjohnson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brat78 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Those are often messed up on the phase 1 EJ22's. On my 94 legacy the key had honed out its slot on the crankshaft. Someone had welded it into place. I can only imagine that the timing belt was last changed over 200k and someone figured that they wouldn't be in there again. Well, here I come at almost 300k, and find that mess. I had to grind the key out and get a new one from Subaru. And the best part is that the keys come in a two pack. I guess in 200 more k I'll have a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 save yourself the hassle - prep it so the surface is flat and bolt the crank pulley on tight - 3 foot breaker bar and give it some stank. i have no idea how many crank pulley's i've installed without keys - they are totally unnecessary, particularly if it's your own car and you do all the work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) duplicate Edited February 12, 2015 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjohnson Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 This is what I wanted to do from the start , but I was worried that I might cause more damage. What's the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning , so I can tighten the pulley enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 And the best part is that the keys come in a two pack. I guess in 200 more k I'll have a spare. That's BS that dealer would make you pay for the 2nd one. The dealership should have taken it for inventory and paid the cost. I would have been on the phone with SOA...pronto. This is what I wanted to do from the start , but I was worried that I might cause more damage. What's the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning , so I can tighten the pulley enough? If it's an Automatic, pull the rubber cover at the back of the motor and shove a long sturdy screwdriver or prybar into one of the Flexplate holes. Make sure it doesn't wedge against anything plastic while cranking on the crank bolt. If it's a Manual trans, put it in 5th gear with all 4 wheels on the ground and parking brake locked tight (or assistant holding brakes is better) this will keep the motor from turning while you tighten crank bolt. Use blue loctite on the bolt. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjohnson Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Thank you to everyone that responded to my woodruff key dilemma.I'll be happy to share any info that I may have w/all of you if I can help. Thanks again! TJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 manual - in gear, brakes on, chocked wheels. AT - through the bellhousing access hole - heavy duty screw driver or socket extension through hole in flexplate. i then use a 3 foot piper over my socket wrench and go to town. i've never used locktite, but makes perfect sense here to use the non-permanent variety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) Tjohnson I had the same exact problem a few months back. I had lots of help from members here. Here is my situation,, with pictures etc.. If you have it all solved already,, great.. If not, hope this helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149417-harmonic-balancer-quit-spinning/?hl=%2Bquit+%2Bspinning Edited February 18, 2015 by xdeadeye1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2gunslim Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 I don't quite understand why the bolt would loosen, we have owned our Legacy for about 5 years and no problem until Saturday night. Luckily it happened while my quite large stepson was driving it and he was able to drive it the mile or so back to the house with arm power alone. The harmonic balancer doesn't appear to be damaged either from flopping about or the rubber deteriorated so I am going to put it back on with loctite 242 on the bolt and torquing it down to about 140 pdft. I'm thankful for USMB, you guys have saved me a gob of money by posting simple fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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