ARJ Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Doesn't make sense The timing on the right side is set to the marks all good the ,left side set to cam pulley mark engine runs hot and under load and pings set mark on left side cam pulley after mark engine pings when not hot under load and looses power , set to cam pulley before mark engine runs ok doesn't ping or get hot . Mark refers to the slot on the back timing belt cover . Any ides why cam pulley has pin so can't be wrongly positioned , timing is set by no1 plug on opposite side (piston 1 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 There are threads on here about how to install timing belts. I'm on mobile, can't link them. The flywheel mark is the center mark of the 3 lines, not the TDC + angle marks. The edge of the arrow in the view port is to align with the center mark. Passenger side belt goes on, hole on pulley aligned with notch on top of plastic. Any belt slack on the tensionerror side. Then turn the crankshaft 1 full turn. Put on drivers side belt, pulley hole aligned with the top notch. Any slack on tensioner side. Re check after setting the tensioners. The timing holes on the cam pulleys must be 180 degrees apart. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARJ Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 These alignments I know and have followed. Left side (facing foward) when the hole in the in the pulley aligns with the notch in the plastic it slowly overheats when driven constantly at 110 kph - (65mph ) or higher and pings under load when temp exceeds normal .When the hole is after the notch say one belt notch towards 1 'clock it consistently pings when under load but doesn't get hot yet when one belt notch before the plastic notch say towards 11;oclock it runs fine. Doesn't make sense andI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Maybe the distributor is off position, or off a tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 This is an Awesome Video by MilesFox: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Sounds like the ignition timing is advanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARJ Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Thanks for help. Problem was distributer vacuums advance bellows stuffed would not advance the timing. Grandson said sounds like timing isn't advancing under load smart little bugga only 11.. A suck on the tube and tongue over tube hole no hold vacuum . God help us oldies ,New dizzy , reset back to mark runs fine GUESS WHO FEELS STUPID Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) You might also want to check and see if the radiator is plugged up or restricted. This can also cause the temperature to creap up at speed. Good on your Grandson, sounds like a tech in the making Edited February 27, 2015 by Crazyeights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 but...overheating can be from too much advance. not from too little advance..... the vacuum advance really drops out under load, when you have foot on it, lesser vacuum - leaving it up to mechanical advance centrifugal weights. Your old dizzy advance springs gone crappo maybe? Try blocking off the vac line with new dizzy installed and see if symptoms return p'raps? I have found the difference between vac advance working and not working is more just a crisper sweeter light throttle respnse when it is working Good that you got it sorted easy though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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