Forester Big Lift To-Do List

[jmoss5723]

The 1 inch lift on my forester just isn't enough. IT MUST GO HIGHER! I am planning on doing a "big" lift on my 2004 XS 5spd this summer (along with finishing some work on my BRAT and diving into my Ski Team wagon restoration...)

I have compiled a list of necessary modifications and I'm looking for some feedback to see if I forgot anything. I'm planning on doing 4 inch strut toppers and 3 inch drops for the subframes, etc. I might go 3/2 instead of 4/3, we'll see. I'm building it all out of 3/16" thickness steel tubing, with as much of it tied together with cross braces as possible. I've done the exact same type of lift on my BRAT, so I generally know what I'm getting into.

Anyways, here is the list. Let me know what you think:

Lift BLocks:
Strut tops - Offset 7mm per 2 inches of lift
Front and Rear Subframes
Sway bar mounts
Transmission Crossmember
Rear Differential Hanger
Center carrier bearing/support in the drive shaft

Trailing Arms

Extensions:
Steering shaft
Radiator Hoses
Brake lines
Shifter Linkage
Pitch Stopper

General Modifications:
Air intake
Skid Plate
Exhaust routing

And of course an alignment.

[Prwa101]

Id go 2/4, forester axels can handle the stress. On top of the newer Heri autmotive HP axels can handle 3.4" of stress. 120 a pop though. Look at my Black 04 FXT, Facebook.com/adnfab Thats a 2" sub frame spacer, 2" top and 2.5" lower Mammoth bracket. Shes a beast and i have the ability if needed to run up to 31's due to the lower lift brackets.

 

Patrick

[jmoss5723]

I looked at your Forester and it is exactly what I have in mind! It looks awesome.

 

I might be interested in buying a set of those strut-bottom lifts. Do you have any pictures of them installed without a wheel on?I'm having trouble visualizing how it all hooks up.

 

As far as going 4/2 is concerned, I've heard lots of back-n-forth on how much the CV's can take and I think I'd rather err on the side of caution. I HATE changing CV's and I figure why risk more stress when I don't really need to? My primary concerns are approach angle and aesthetics. I don't take it rock crawling or anything, I just drive some really crappy "roads" to go hunting, camping, etc. I understand that I COULD go 2 inch difference between the struts and the subframes, but for my purposes, I do not need to nor do I really want to.

[jmoss5723]

Another thought: I might do a 2.5" strut bottom lift and leave the 1" spacers I already have for a total of 3.5" (well, plus the 3/8" saggy butt spacers I have in the back), then do a 2" drop on the rest of the driveline. So I'd have a 3.5/2. this seems like the best and easiest solution, right?

To account for camber, I would just need to offset the bottom hole on my brackets, right? How much, though?

[Prwa101]

I looked at your Forester and it is exactly what I have in mind! It looks awesome.

 

I might be interested in buying a set of those strut-bottom lifts. Do you have any pictures of them installed without a wheel on?I'm having trouble visualizing how it all hooks up.

 

As far as going 4/2 is concerned, I've heard lots of back-n-forth on how much the CV's can take and I think I'd rather err on the side of caution. I HATE changing CV's and I figure why risk more stress when I don't really need to? My primary concerns are approach angle and aesthetics. I don't take it rock crawling or anything, I just drive some really crappy "roads" to go hunting, camping, etc. I understand that I COULD go 2 inch difference between the struts and the subframes, but for my purposes, I do not need to nor do I really want to.

Im not done with them yet still testing them out. Its been done before many times, i know theyll work just for my own sake. I do have pictures of them installed but i cant share them yet. lol Ive been runnning mine at 2.5" for atleast 2.5years now and havent seen a axle go bad. Theres misconception between the EA and the EJ axels which some people mix up. 2" is a good anlge to have your axels at. i have many 2" kits on the road and havnt hear of one problem with boots or the axel going bad.

 

Another thought: I might do a 2.5" strut bottom lift and leave the 1" spacers I already have for a total of 3.5" (well, plus the 3/8" saggy butt spacers I have in the back), then do a 2" drop on the rest of the driveline. So I'd have a 3.5/2. this seems like the best and easiest solution, right?

 

To account for camber, I would just need to offset the bottom hole on my brackets, right? How much, though?

 

If you run thouse Heri axels you can run that set up without a subframe drop lol. I built a 98 near me thats on a 2" lift spacer and king springs 3.4" total and its doing great.

 

but yeah 1.5" isnt that bad. although near me .5" of clearence is the breaking point from stuck to not stuck. lol.

 

Well my entire plate is offset and i cant share my design secrets haha. 

[NorthCoast]

Sheesh, I must have misread the title.  I thought you were doing a big lift (6-8") but its just a big list of things to do before your lift. 

 

Got me excited for nothin'. 

[jmoss5723]

Well since MOST people only lift new gen Subarus like 1 or 2 inches, 4 inches is relatively big. But yes, as far as lifts go in general, it won't be very big.

 

For some perspective, on the forester forums SO MANY people put on 1 inch strut spacers and post before and after pics and everyone gets all excited  . Really "extreme" guys put a spacer and put king springs in  . It is pretty sad. I know some people have done some hugely lifted new gen cars around here and there are obviously a million examples of tall EA cars, but there aren't many foresters over about 2" of lift.

 

Sorry to disappoint!