scatgo Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Just did some major work on my 1999 Forester. Replaced two bent valves because timing belt broke. Rebuilt bolth heads. Rebuilt intake manifold. Installed timing belt kit. Just got every thing together and it wont start. Ignition system seems ok. Getting a nice fat spark. Engine will run a little when I sprayed some brake cleaner into throttle body. Pulled off the fuel supply line that goes from the new gas filter to the metal line that feed the injectors and gas sprayed out with some good pressure. After hooking the supply line up I removed the return fuel line and nothing will come out of it when I try to start it up. Any suggestions as to where I may have screwed up on this would be very appreciated. Thank You Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Do you hear the fuel pump run when you first turn on the Key? Have you tried putting a little gas in the intake. If it runs then, it's a fuel issue. Are you sure you have the correct timming? Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Are the fuel lines backwards? Top pipe on the manifold is feed, middle is return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scatgo Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Will take a better look at the fuel line setup. There is a third one. think its evap vac line. It looks smaller in diameter. Started raining pretty hard so I had to bail on this situation. Did take a fast look a a fuel line diagram while dealing with the but it was a rush job because of the rain. @ IMdew Yea can hear the fuel pump. Was VERY careful when I set up the timing belt. And yes it will run when I spray brake fluid into the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Bottom hose is the evap and is much smaller. Can't mix that one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 The feed comes from the fuel filter, it's the shorter line. Also check to make sure your cam and crank position sensors are plugged all the way in. I know this one sounds stupid, but it happened to me... Didn't click the plug all the way into the sensor once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impostor Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Also verify that the coolant temp sensor is plugged in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scatgo Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks. If it ever stops snowing and raining around here Ill look into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scatgo Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) Did mix up the fuel lines. Now that I have the supply and return lines it will start up but stall after a few seconds. It did run great for a few seconds a few times. but for the most part it will start run a little rough and then stall. Any one think I may have damaged the fulel pressure regulator by having the supply and returne lines mixed up? I did remove the vac line from the fuel pressure regulator and the line is not clogged and I did try to start it with the vac line removed and I had the same start and stall situation. Not sure how to test a pressure regulator. Any suggestions as to where I may have screwed up on this would be very appreciated Thanks Edited March 7, 2015 by scatgo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scatgo Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 PS. The engine light is on but no codes. But my code reader says it is resseting the ECM but the engine light wont go off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Engine light will stay on any time the engine is not running. Check the intake box and tube and make sure its seated together at the bottom and the tube is properly installed and firmly clamped at both ends. Also make sure all of the PCV and breather hoses that attach to the box are properly attached at both ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scatgo Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) Thanks. The EMC just put out a code PO122 throttle/pedal position sensor/ switch A circuit low input. The TPS is a 200$ part so I am hoping its a just a lose connection. About to research that code see if I can test that sensor with my volt meter to find out whats up. Any ifo on testing that sensor would be helpful. And I did have the TPS off the Throttle body so might just be a ajustment issue? Thanks Edited March 7, 2015 by scatgo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 The TPS can be difficult to get plugged in all the way. Was it removed for any reason? If the TPS was removed it needs to be re-adjusted so the ECU gets the proper signal voltage when the throttle is closed. There could also be an issue with the reference voltage going to the sensor. Double check the large connectors at the bell-housing and make sure they're clean and clicked together all the way. Also check the ground bolts on the manifold up top by the coil. These are the grounds for the ECU, and need to be clean and tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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