SoobDood05 Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 New one is ordered and on the way. i will just need to figure out where each wire goes to plug the new distributor in. on the ignition module inside it. i looked in the manual and couldnt seem to see it in there.I am stumped as to why someone would have put the wrong one in this car in the first place lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 You need one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1600-1800-Service-manual-Engine-And-Body-1984-/261828895248?hash=item3cf637e210&vxp=mtr#ht_361wt_1153 I`m sure the ND was cheaper to source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 I couldnt even find the diagram on all data. At least one specific enough. Could someone please post up a pic of wire orientation for the inside of the ea81t dizzy? I need to know what wiires go to each terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 i did some digging around the forums and found a diagram for the ign/pickup module for the ea81t that matches the wire colors on my harness so I will go with that. im confident it will work. the disty should be here tomorrow. I hate waiting for car parts it kills me! lol I will update on what happens once its in. the car has been sitting for a few weeks now not running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) new disty is in and hooked up. firing order is correct im pretty sure. it still will not start. I point the rotor directly at no 1 a tdc it wont start. it wants to but wil not actually fire up. it seems to want to start more when the rotor is pointed further away from no 1. ive been trying different positions forever and it just will not start no matter what I try. any suggestions?. Edited April 4, 2015 by SoobDood05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Got spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 im pretty sure i have spark because it starts kicking over and almost runs but vibrates and dies. ive tried changing it a tooth or two in either direction and no dice. the firing order i have set up on the cap is at tdc with rotor pointing at no 1. i go from there 1-3-4-2. im using the timing mark on the crank pulley the small scribe mark at 0 deg. something just seems off. i know its not 180 off. because it was initially and it backfired through the intake. it gets so close to starting haha. and i know i have fuel too because i pulled the plugs. but 3&4 had more fuel on the plugs than 1&2 did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) 1 3 4 2 !! Better swap cars mister ! Until you can remember that the fiont pots fire before four, like in sequence 1 , 3 along the heads 2, 4 from the front...so the cap needs to be 1324 sequence as well, is it in anticlock direction too I think. Could explain your 3 and 4 plug condition ?? Or typo in your post sending me off ona tangent? And, often when looking at rotor button it ain't pointing precisely at the Numero uno conatct in the dist cap, it is just approaching the spot in direction of spin - caught me out a few times Just thought of something ... the EA81T dizzy is much like the next gen EA82T dizzy if not the same on the insides ?? If you really only made a typo above , surely you did not screw up the firing order on the cap and lead sequence ?? nah, surely not ?? My trick with EA82T and similar dizzy when all things lined up and fly on the timing mark on flywheel 20 DBTDC in my case - same for an EA81T with ECU ?, in the dizzy where the two parts line up and is when I imagine the spark is triggered, I would use a feeler gauge inserted squarely between the rotor and the fixed bit in dizzy - 25 though gap. This is not a gap between the two parts directly, more 25 though gap before the two line up as rotates. Engine always started Edited April 5, 2015 by jono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 I'm pretty sure it was a typo. Its hard to remember without it right in front of me but I will check again to confirm it. The old disty cap and rotor had to be changed cause no parts were interchangeable between the old the new one and everything was out of whack in the first place I didnt have much of a baseline to go from. Timing marks on ea81t is on the crank pulley. I'll try what you suggested and thanks for the reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) I have sometimes come across an issue where replacement Distributor caps do not line up correctly with the Rotor button hence spark issues arise. Make sure you have Number one at TDC and then check the sweep of the mechanical advance which even a Turbo Distributor of that era will have and after marking where the cap lead pickup is on the Distributor body for number one cylinder make sure the Rotor button pretty much lines up throughout the sweep from both the mechanical Advance and Vacuum retard advance modules arc of movement. You should find that at either extreme of rotor button movement at least part of the rotor button will line up with the marked position where the Number one Plug lead has its aluminium internal pickup point inside the Distributor cap, If not you will have weak spark issues and missing and hard starting. I have come across this a few times when Genuine parts are not readily sourced that some aftermarket stuff just isn't right, It can be a real trap as the last thing you expect is a problem with new parts. Last time I had this issue it was a Nippondenso Distributor on a Toyota Celica TA 22, a Supposedly Made in Japan Bosch branded Replacement Cap drove me nuts till I figured out what was the problem. Edited April 6, 2015 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 So it looks like the firing order is correct on the car. I must have forgot how it went when typing that post. I confirmed I was at tdc with the no.1 spark plug out and a flashlight. the timing mark is correct and I am not 180 deg off. where I have the disty and the rotor pointing @ no. 1 with the reluctor wheel lined up on both sides. technically it should start and run. ive had someone turn it while cranking both ways full in each direction and it doesent start still. it just kicks over faster and puff puff out the tail pipe but wont fire up completely. weve been having snow and rain so its kinda difficult to get out there in the open with all the wind and work on it right now lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 So the procedure in alldata says to alighn the timing marks on the flywheel the align the mark on disty. I did 0 deg. I tried that and it still wont start. The timing marks on the torque converter do not line up with the mark on the crank pulley. are they supposed to on an EA81t? I find it hard to believe the timing gears may have jumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 I got the car to start. Timed it and it actually ran okay. Didnt ping. Turbo actually kicks in now. Shut it off. Started rough. Charging light came on. Started to miss bit went away. Drove it to school alt drained my battery pretty sure. Batt voltage was 11.5v while idling. Started with a jump box, missed very badly. Died and is now a no start once again. I'm wondering if I have a bad ecu at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 I got the car to start. Timed it and it actually ran okay. Didnt ping. Turbo actually kicks in now. Shut it off. Started rough. Charging light came on. Started to miss bit went away. Drove it to school alt drained my battery pretty sure. Batt voltage was 11.5v while idling. Started with a jump box, missed very badly. Died and is now a no start once again. I'm wondering if I have a bad ecu at this point. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 Got the battery charged up. Did a few tests. Decided the alt was bad. At the most convenient time at that. Replaced it and shes charging great now. It will start after siting overnight. The issue is only apparent after the car is hot and been turned off to sit for a small bit of time. then restarted. But the stumble is still there. Will update when I make more progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Iknow this thread is kind of dead but i would like to just post a bit of progress ive made since my last post. the car will start and run, but during cold start it does run very poorly. it misfires and runs very rich, and sometimes it dies and wont start for a few. and once it does it will only start in clear flood mode. (throttle wide open while cranking) once it warms up it doesent misfire and idles well. but still stumbles under half to wide open throttle. light throttle it will not cut out untill about 2300 rpm or so. i have tested the CTS with a infrared thermometer and my meter and the resistance values progress with the temp as they should. during no start condition i have checked for spark, wich was good. and put a noid light on injectors, wich was good. and the car wanted to start with no.1 injector unplugged more than with it connected. so im thinking i may have a leaking injector. or am just getting too much fuel. any input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 (edited) Most coolant temp sensors work as an NTC system which means the following.Note the resistance Decreases as temperature rises. Negative Temperature Coefficient ThermistorsPart 1: Characteristics, Materials, and Configurations This introduction to NTC thermistor technology will help engineers and purchasing agents make the best choice for the application. Greg Lavenuta, Cornerstone Sensors, Inc. Browse our catalog and search for our products at GlobalSpec.com fter time, temperature is the variable most frequently measured. The three most common types of contact electronic temperature sensors in use today are thermocouples, resistance temperature detectors (RTDs), and thermistors. This article will examine the negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor. Photo 1. NTC thermistors are manufactured in a variety of sizes and configurations. The chips in the center of the photo can be used as surface mount devices or attached to different types of insulated or uninsulated wire leads. The thermistor element is usually coated with a phenolic or epoxy material that provides protection from environmental conditions. For applications requiring sensing tip dimensions with part-to-part uniformity and/or smaller size, the devices can be encapsulated in PVC cups or polyimide tubes. General Properties and Features NTC thermistors offer many desirable features for temperature measurement and control within their operating temperature range. Although the word thermistor is derived from THERMally sensitive resISTOR, the NTC thermistor can be more accurately classified as a ceramic semiconductor. The most prevalent types of thermistors are glass bead, disc, and chip configurations (see Photo 1), and the following discussion focuses primarily on those technologies. Temperature Ranges and Resistance Values. NTC thermistors exhibit a decrease in electrical resistance with increasing temperature. Depending on the materials and methods of fabrication, they are generally used in the temperature range of -50°C to 150°C, and up to 300°C for some glass-encapsulated units. The resistance value of a thermistor is typically referenced at 25°C (abbreviated as R25). For most applications, the R25 values are between 100 and 100 k. Other R25 values as low as 10 and as high as 40 M can be produced, and resistance values at temperature points other than 25°C can be specified. Edited April 20, 2015 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Im sorry for the typo. It did decrease as temp rose just didnt note that properly haha. Holy smokes thanks for all that info though. I learned all that in school. But definatley a good read if you dont understand how ntc style variable resistors work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Iknow this thread is kind of dead but i would like to just post a bit of progress ive made since my last post. the car will start and run, but during cold start it does run very poorly. it misfires and runs very rich, and sometimes it dies and wont start for a few. and once it does it will only start in clear flood mode. (throttle wide open while cranking) once it warms up it doesent misfire and idles well. but still stumbles under half to wide open throttle. light throttle it will not cut out untill about 2300 rpm or so. i have tested the CTS with a infrared thermometer and my meter and the resistance values progress with the temp as they should. during no start condition i have checked for spark, wich was good. and put a noid light on injectors, wich was good. and the car wanted to start with no.1 injector unplugged more than with it connected. so im thinking i may have a leaking injector. or am just getting too much fuel. any input? Maybe it is time to check the MAF. Not a lot else controls the fuel and it is the major one. You should have about 1 volt flap closed between the YR and BR wires. 5 volts flap open full. Backprobe the connector or find the wires in the 6 pin red check connector under the dash, Make sure the ignition timing is good. You need to unplug the 2 pole connector between the distributor and the knock contol unit to set timing. You can use your fuel pressure gauge to see if the injectors hold pressure after shutdown. I pulled my injectors and put test tubes over the ends overnight to finally pinpoint the culprit, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) At first the fuel pressure would drop from 30 to 10 and stay there at 10 after leaking down each time. Then we primed it while pinchig of the return line. The pressure jumped up to 70 and after we let it go it went to 40-35 wouldnt leak down anymore. And the lowest pressure was about 35psi. So I think the regulator went out. Now it runs crazy rich. Will only start when you unplug no.1 injector clear flood and crank then plug back in. But runs so rich and misfires. Starts to burn the eyes lol I am in need of another car so I'm not sure how much longer I'm going to mess with this one. Edited April 25, 2015 by SoobDood05 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Buy a adjustable fuel pressure regulator from the auto parts store or ebay. I would cut out the stock regulator if i were you and put a hose in it's place. Then put the regulator inline somewhere between the fuel filter and inlet rail on the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 I had already bought one just for this situation lol I have been meaning to do it bit I hate that fuel rail. Guess I can get my double flare kit out and out and try to get the old regular or cut out. I would figure ton put the regular or on the return line since its a vacuum diaphram type with gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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