nicholi2789 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Hey guys, So i've been slowly replacing all the leaking seals on my old tired Subaru. Recently did all the cam seals/crank seal, and the valve cover gaskets. Now I am looking at replacing my oil pan gasket (it's leaking quite a bit) and also wanted to clean or replace the pickup tube. Then all I will have left is the oil separator plate (which I will do with my clutch) and I will be leak free! Woot! Anyways, I am looking for a little guidance on this particular procedure, and I haven't been able to find a good write up for this particular engine. Mine is the 95 2.2 SOHC. Anyways, I have heard quite a few times now that the pick up tube in the pan can get clogged up and cause oil starvation in the engine, and that scares me, especially considering it's unlikely the pan gasket has been done, much less the pickup tube judging by the way it's leaking. So I figured since the pan gasket needs to be changed I could clean the pickup or replace it while I'm in there. Have any of you guys done this? And does it sound like a good idea? This car has 270,000 miles almost and I want to do every possible thing I can to make it last. I've seen on other write ups that the bottom engine mounts have to be loosened and the engine jacked up to get the pan off. Is this true on this particular engine? Cause it looks to me like I could get all the bolts out and the pan off without doing it. Also, what do you guys recommend for the gasket? A pre-fabricated gasket or just some good ole RTV? Thanks in advance for all your help. As always, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I'd be willing to bet it's the breather plate that is causing the oil leak you are seeing and not the pan itself. RTV only on the pan. There is a breather seal at the right rear corner of the oil pan as well. I'd clean it up real well and watch it. If you are going to do the clutch and breather anyway, just wait until then to do the pan. Change out the PCV with a Subaru one. They clog up sometimes and cause high oil consumption. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I resealed my oil pan when I had my engine out for the separator plate. Definitely easier to do it then compared to working on it now if you have a clutch coming up. Ultra grey RTV is good for the pan seal. You shouldn't have to replace the oil pickup tube, but there is an o-ring where the tube attaches that you should replace when you have the pan off. See beergarage for pics and a write up (except that he uses a cork gasket on the pan and most people here prefer/suggest RTV). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Hmm well oil consumption isn't really a problem.. It amazingly only uses about a half a quart of oil over 3k miles. It does leak oil onto the exhaust and cause smoke sometimes which is very annoying. That's the main reason I wanna do the separator plate. The clutch doesn't need to be done yet. I just know it will eventually. I don't plan on doing til I have to. So does the engine need to be jacked up to get the pan off? EDIT: And I have already swapped the PCV valve and checked the whole PCV system for clogs. Edited March 10, 2015 by nicholi2789 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Don't bother with the pan. It's probably not even leaking. The separator plate and the wrist pin cover o-ring on the back of the engine leak like crazy and it all looks like its coming from the back of the oil pan. How did the inside of the engine look when you did the valve covers? Slightly brown is fine. If there's no major crusty buildup (like someone poured asphalt in the engine) then don't worry about the pickup tube. Some light buildup/ crud is nothing to worry about, especially at 270k. Half quart of MMO in the oil will take care of most of that if you want it gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 If it don't look like this, you don't got nothin to worry about: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2739283 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Does the engine need to be jacked up? Yes but only to get to the two rear bolts. The write up is clear in the service manual which I suggest you get. It's only $10 on the internet [a dvd]. I had my oil pan changed on my 95 in order to eliminate the oil pan gasket that someone installed. I was thinking that the gasket allowed oil to be sucked up the drain tube [the drain tube depends on a gasket that is compressed when the oil pan is bolted on]. It's just something to think about in case that you go with the pan gasket. Did it stop the oil burning? Not entirely. It did reduce it from a 1.0 qt/1000 mi to 0.5 qt/1000 mi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 Don't bother with the pan. It's probably not even leaking. The separator plate and the wrist pin cover o-ring on the back of the engine leak like crazy and it all looks like its coming from the back of the oil pan. How did the inside of the engine look when you did the valve covers? Slightly brown is fine. If there's no major crusty buildup (like someone poured asphalt in the engine) then don't worry about the pickup tube. Some light buildup/ crud is nothing to worry about, especially at 270k. Half quart of MMO in the oil will take care of most of that if you want it gone. When I did the valve covers they weren't too rridiculously crusty. A little golden orange looking but not too bad I think. I cleaned them with brake cleaner anyways. And as far as MMO goes, someone suggested I use it a couple months back and since then I have put a quart in and ran it for the last 500 miles or so on the last two oil changes. I had to drain oil out to do it. I use Mobil1 high mileage synthetic 1040 now on my oil changes. Always have used high quality oil too. I'll see if I can get some better pictures of the pan. I think i have pictures of the inside of the valve cover gaskets before I cleaned them too. What do you guys think of doing the clutch as a preventative? I'm pretty sure it will go out eventually as the pedal engages almost all the way out. Tho it shows no sign of slipping yet, and it will squeak the tires if I try. I just know eventually the clutch will need done, and i really wanna do that separator plate to have all the leaks fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 If it don't look like this, you don't got nothin to worry about: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2739283 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Yeah you don't have anything to worry about as far as the pickup screen is concerned. As I said, the oil pans realy don't leak, they get the blame for a leaking separator or other leaks because all of the leaks run down and end up around the pan. Clean it off realy well, purple power and a water hose are all I use. Drive it or let it run for 20-30 minutes and check for any signs of leaks around the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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