sirtokesalot Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 dident get any pics. was driving and noticed the battery and brake light come on i thought that the alternator died and figured id turn off the lights and radio and see how far i could get before the battery died i felt like i could get home. about a mile or so later the check engine light began flashing and i lost power steering. at that point i figured i threw the belt and pulled over figuring id pull my old belt out the trunk put it on and be going however when i opened the hood i found both the alternator belt and a/c belt was still there with the main center pulley that drives them hanging there by the belts with the bolt still in it. i got the bolt back on and drove it home now im wondering how tight should that bolt be? what we did to get it back on was use a screw driver through the inspection plate to hold the motor still while tightening the bolt with a ratchet and extension bar. it is a 95 legacy l wagon with the 2.2 the key way dident look perfect but it did still grab the pulley and hold it locked there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 That key slot on there is commonly screwed up on these motors and lets the crank pulley come loose if it's not tight enough. pull it off and see if it's still there. If so, line it up and tighten it down hard. If not, make sure metal chips and such are gone and the pulley can seat flatly. Use a breaker bar and a cheater pipe and tighten the crap out of it. If you get it really tight, it will run fine. Buddy of mine has been running over a year now on one that i did that is held only by the tightness of that bolt. If you have repeated issue, or just for peace of mind, there's another workaround if the keyway is destroyed that involves drillng/tapping or welding. My experience though - just get limbered up and tighten that sucker down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Most people recommend 140 ft/lbs for the crank bolt. I think the most current FSM spec is 130ish. Pretty common for those to come loose so you really need to torque it on there. Like adventure said, make sure there are no chunks stuck behind the pulley. When they come loose the pulley can taper on the edges and not sit flat against the crank sprocket. If the pulley still wobbles after you tighten it it's recommended to replace the sprocket and pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 To add to above good advice, the original OEM torque for the crank bolt on the 95 was only about 65 ft lb. So maybe someone who torqued it last was reading the original service manual. Use 130 ft lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 well i just got back. took the car down to work this morning and used the torque wrench there i tightened it to 150 ft pound its not going anywhere anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 i use a 3 foot pipe and go to town on that mojo. they never come off. keyways are in no way needed if they're mangled. clean up and/or remove and seat the pulley flush and never think about it again for 400,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingkoopa Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 That exact same thing actually just happened to my '94 Legacy L. Tore up my balancer, but the crankshaft and woodruff key are fine. Oddly, I noticed it on the interstate when all of a sudden, right after coming on to the highway (got engine up to 4500 or so), I started smoking white/blue smoke A LOT. Killed the engine immediately and coasted to the shoulder. Get out only to see oil leaking like crazy from behind the timing belt cover. Start engine briefly to see if I can see if it is from there or was just splashed there and I see the balancer wobbling back and forth. I kill the engine and reach down and I can move the crankshaft bolt by hand. I assume the worst and get it towed home (GF has AAA). I take apart the front of the engine to see if I can see the leak. Amazingly, almost everything is perfectly fine. The bolt is in good condition, the timing crank sprocket is good, the crankshaft is good, all my other pulleys are good. The massive oil leak was caused just by the main front seal getting pushed out from the inside, most likely because there was no force from the crankshaft bolt keeping all the pulleys pressed against the engine. The front seal was pushed about about half a centimeter from flush. Just got all the parts I need and am replacing it today. I figured while I was at it, I would take off my oil pump to check the screws on the inside and replace the small o-ring for the oil pump. I'm putting a new timing belt on, but leaving the water pump. I never had any problems with heat and all of my timing belt pulleys and water pump pulley bearings feel nice and smooth. Go EJ22. 300000 miles and still going. My EJ25 is having serious problems and I think I'm going to try and find an EJ22 to swap in to it. The really weird thing about my crankshaft bolt coming off is that no one has touched that bolt since before I bought the car. I was told the timing belt had just been done before I bought it, and that was at about 225000 miles. So, it's been getting more and more loose for almost 75000 miles and finally came off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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