loyale1993 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 A few days ago I posted seeking advice for stripped threads in the head of my ea82 for the header studs. I was coming to terms with the fact that I was going to have to buy a helicoil set, do some drilling, and tapping then install the helicoil etc. etc. Honestly, I was intimidated by this repair because I have no experience with this type of work and I could just picture myself screwing up with catastrophic results. Gloyale chimed in with a suggestion on tapping the existing hole with a 7/16-14 tap and install a 7/16 stud in the newly tapped hole. Not only did it worked like a charm but it saved me some coin and no drilling! So, if this ever happens to you and you have a 7/16-14 tap on hand save your money on helicoils they are not needed. This job took me a little more than hour to tap both of the holes, install the studs, and reattach the exhaust (Including 2 trips to the parts store because I forgot to buy new gaskets.) Thanks again Gloyale for that tip! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Agreed this works great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 One of many reasons to love this site! get the simple solution from those who have already done this sort of work and figuring. Glad it went smoothly! I know that sinking feeling when you find something like that and it seems to make the job get that much more difficult. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Good to know, will definitely keep this in mind the next time I have this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yep. Either 7/16"-14 or 7/16"-20 tap will go right into the stripped thread hole, no drilling needed. Doing this will get one by for a long time, and leaves plenty of "meat" around the stripped hole to do a proper Heli-Coil/ Timesert repair when that time comes. Is especially easy to do on Subaru engines what have the spacer for the ASV tubes, as you only really need to tap that spacer, not the hole in the head. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarusaver Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 WISH I would have asked that question.............This place is like GOOGLE for Subaru's!!!! I used the opposing holes in the head on my ea 82 and had to have my exhaust cut and welded to match(I was getting new exhaust anyway) but it sucks now to get to that one nut!!! I LOVE USMB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I'm having the opposite problem. I have a broken exhaust stud stuck in the hole on my ea81. There's enough to grab a hold of, but I can't get it to budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I would try running it until it gets to normal operating temp, then try turning it with vise grips. Or if you have an oxyacetylene torch, and know how long to use it.... Not sure if I could do my TIG a jam nut or a washer to the end of the stud trick will work upside down. Why these work is the heat expands and weakens the grip of the corrosion between the bolt / stud and the aluminum, so it is also key to do it while hot. (after the glow from welding [in that case] fades) Tapping on the broken piece with a small hammer after heating also may help break up / loosen the corrosion. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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