Jabbott126 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 So I'm finally giving up on trying to make the Loyale a lowered race car and instead I'm gonna turn it into what it was made to be. that being a trail ready DD with tons of offroad goodness. So I'm gonna need a lift. I'm looking at different options and Ive been doing lots of reading. I'm kinda stuck in between a 2" and a 4" lift. the wheel/tires ill be running for now are a set of outback wheels with 215/70/r15s on them. Not massive tires so i should have plenty of clearance. So the big question is What are the set backs. I heard possibly having to make my steering shaft longer, also the body lift, how much is necessary and will i need to adjust the shift linkage or any wiring in the car. I just want to fully understand what I'm getting into before i go throw all this stuff on my car. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 You budget matters the most on how high you want it. I build them, Facebook.com/adnfab take a look at photos I have 2" and 4" on several cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabbott126 Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 yeh forsure I have enough cash to at least get the lift kit then ill hopefully be able to save up for new tires and other offroad goodies. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 I had some setbacks and distractions since getting all the parts for a 2" lift with 5x100 adaptors and a set of crosstrek wheels/tires several months ago. Now it's time... my current tires are done and I found someone to help me out with it (most basic mechanics don't want to deal with these mods) since I have no tools or garage currently. I almost sold the wheels for something smaller. I'm not 100% sure they will work even with the 2" lift kit I have. This is mockup of what mine might look like. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=11516 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) If you go with a suspension lift the crossmembers stay in the same place just the struts are spaced downwards which gives you lift and X" more ground clearance compared to stock,regardless of whatever tire size you run.However, it puts more stress on the axles so they fail sooner,it also kills some suspension travel. If you go with a body lift on the other hand you wont automatically get more ground clearance other than under the body.The suspension/engine will still be the same height off the ground.However, because the body is now further from the suspension you can fit bigger tires.The upside is that because the stock suspension geometry is unchanged it rides roughly the same as before,it has the same amount of suspension travel,and axles last longer.It is however exactly the same as a body lift on a normal vehicle- wires and hoses will need to be extended, same with the steering shaft and various control levers.The carrier bearing on the drive shaft will also need to be lowered the same amount so it can create a potential hang up/rip off hazard. The size of the lift depends on what size tire you want to run and how much body clearancing your willing to do.With a suspension lift the max you can typically run is 2",with a body lift you can run as big as you want to,you can also incorporate both types into a lift.For instance a 4" block on the struts and a 2" block on the crossmember would give you the ground clearance of the full 2" suspension lift, with the tire clearance of a 4" lift...However,above 8" of lift it is typically best to also look into a divorced T case install because while you may be able to fit big tires, you won't have the gearing to effectively motivate them. Edited March 18, 2015 by Uberoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabbott126 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Thanks Uberoo that's exactly what I was looking for! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 wires and hoses will need to be extended, same with the steering shaft and various control levers.The carrier bearing on the drive shaft will also need to be lowered the same amount so it can create a potential hang up/rip off hazard. Is this an issue even with just a 2" body lift? Originally read not to worry about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123999-boss-2-ea82-lift-kits-100/?p=1047827 thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 If its only a 2" top spacer no no need to make any changes. If you start lowering the subframe minor changes will need. With my 1.5" drop the 90-94 legacey steering knuckle bolt right up. and very few ive seen needed to mess with the shift linkage. Is this an issue even with just a 2" body lift? Originally read not to worry about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123999-boss-2-ea82-lift-kits-100/?p=1047827 thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Doing a 2" suspension only drop will stress your axles more than normal. You will run into them failing more often. Doing a full body drop along with the suspension drop with help keep the angles stock and will prevent a little bit of extra wear and tear. Unless you are building a wheeler only then I would highly suggest it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Is this an issue even with just a 2" body lift? Originally read not to worry about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123999-boss-2-ea82-lift-kits-100/?p=1047827 thnx a body lift on a subaru means spacing the engine/transmission/struts down an equal amount to provide clearance for bigger tires.A suspension lift means spacing the active suspension parts away from the body.A suspension lift just spaces the struts further from the body,the engine however stays in the same place relative to the body.A 2" body lift will require minor adjustments of hoses/wiring/and levers because the engine/transmission is now further from the body.With a 2" lift some slack can be found by loosening brackets or other such things.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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