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Where do I find the Right EGR Valve?


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So im looking for a new EGR Valve and I went to rock auto and they gave me this as the cheapest choice: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3647412&cc=1268344&jnid=395&jpid=0 . Will this fit my 1984 EA81 GL Wagon? It says it will but the OEM part number that is on my old one is AEY78-12 and the OE number on the RockAuto one is A36139. Will it still fit? I have been looking for my old EGR's part number and have been unsuccessful thus far. Please, help me out here guys!

Edited by Sapper 157
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I personally hate the one size fits all egr valves with the orifices u can choose from. Will it work most likely. Will it ping maybe. Will it last... ? Ive had better luck with junkyard units. The one on my 82 brat is off a loyale iirc. Is it the right calibration dunno but ive not had a problem. Im spfi tho. Do u have to pass emissions?

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Not into egr deletes but its an option. Ive read on here the system is poorly balanced. I have no proof of this, delete at your own discression.

You gave a part nuber for yours but said you cant find the number? No matter i bet that rockauto egr valve is almost universal and fits 30 different cars. One orifice washer will likely service calibrations AERX9xxx-APY1xxx or something like that. it may not leave you feeling like you choose the right one. No gaurentee it will fit your car but If I really needed one and couldnt find one to put in my pocket at the junkyard id buy that one without thinking twice.

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I bought one from Rock auto for my 85 and it didn't fit.  Mine has two tubes that connnect to it or the part did.  I forget what exactly didn't fit, but it didn't fit and I ended up cleaning mine (it only had a little carbon built up) and testing it.  It was working well and it's still on today.  I read that the egr has purposes that are beneficial to the engine.  Hope this helps, cheers

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Get a EGR delete plate or make one and run a weber with no cat.

Thanks for the suggestion, but the problem is, I have really no desire nor the experience to do an egr delete. Nor would I like to figure out a weber, especially after I just rebuilt my hitachi. 

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I bought one from Rock auto for my 85 and it didn't fit.  Mine has two tubes that connnect to it or the part did.  I forget what exactly didn't fit, but it didn't fit and I ended up cleaning mine (it only had a little carbon built up) and testing it.  It was working well and it's still on today.  I read that the egr has purposes that are beneficial to the engine.  Hope this helps, cheers

That does help. I am curious as to who one would go about cleaning it though. Do you just use an air compressor and blow out the ports?  Or do you use some kind of chemical to clean it? Or a mix of the two?? Thanks!

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This is the part I'm afraid the new egr will lack. This little port circled in the picture connects to a hose which connects to my anti afterburning valve, which is required for my engines operation.post-54976-0-22877600-1426652739_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sapper 157
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Hi Sapper, IIRC I was told to remove it and look inside to see if it was "all gunked up" and clogged.  When I removed it I only found a very thin black coating on the inside.  So I spayed out the cavity with carburator cleaner, wiped with a rag, and probably let it dry for a while in the sun.  I don't remember exactly.  I did all this after I discovered the new one wouldn't fit.  The cool thing I learned is that you can move the value and TEST the EGR without removing it and see if at idle your engine starts to stall.  That means it's working as it should and that's what I found out!!  Pretty cool.  You have to reach in and move the plunger stem/ or valve arm deal with your finger (be cautious).  Here's link to my thread and alor of tips about the EGR.  Let's know what happens.  Take care.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146755-85-gl-wagon-smog-fail/

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He failed to mention that the lack of the AAV port was his concern. If you look up a valve for a newer carbed car you will find valves with this port. Guess what they are over ten times more expensive. I did not ask you why you wanted to replace it as you were asking where to find a valve. I assumed it was shot, not just plugged. Whats wrong with your old egr valve? If it does just need cleaned brake clean works. Check the manifold the tube to the head and the port in the head. If the valve leaks or the diaphragm no longer holds vacuum, then obviously its time to replace.

The AAV is not "required" for your engines operation, and can easily be removed. you can then replace your egr valve with one off a different or newer car that does not have this port. Are you sure the after burn valve works? Its great to try to save this stuff but once you start having problems you realize some of it just cant be saved. Its not cost effective and in some cases just not possible. Since you dont have to pass emissions might be time to consider an emission system redesign. 

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He failed to mention that the lack of the AAV port was his concern. If you look up a valve for a newer carbed car you will find valves with this port. Guess what they are over ten times more expensive. I did not ask you why you wanted to replace it as you were asking where to find a valve. I assumed it was shot, not just plugged. Whats wrong with your old egr valve? If it does just need cleaned brake clean works. Check the manifold the tube to the head and the port in the head. If the valve leaks or the diaphragm no longer holds vacuum, then obviously its time to replace.

The AAV is not "required" for your engines operation, and can easily be removed. you can then replace your egr valve with one off a different or newer car that does not have this port. Are you sure the after burn valve works? Its great to try to save this stuff but once you start having problems you realize some of it just cant be saved. Its not cost effective and in some cases just not possible. Since you dont have to pass emissions might be time to consider an emission system redesign. 

Well I want to replace it because I have had various issues and I thought the carb may be the culprit. I just rebuilt my Hitachi so now im thinking its my my EGR is to blame. I thought you had to replace the EGR completely, didnt know that just cleaning it was a option, so maybe it just needs a good cleaning. Didnt know that the AAV was not required. I only assumed it was because when I unplugged the AAV hose from the EGR the engine immediately dies. No, im not sure the AAV works, I might replace that as well if its not too expensive. If cleaning doesnt work, I think I may just get an EGR from a junkyard like you suggested.

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 Didnt know that the AAV was not required. I only assumed it was because when I unplugged the AAV hose from the EGR the engine immediately dies. No, im not sure the AAV works, I might replace that as well if its not too expensive. If cleaning doesnt work, I think I may just get an EGR from a junkyard like you suggested.

Engine died because unplugging that hose created a massive vacuum leak, starving the engine of fuel.

 

Bought an '84 BRAT that would do a 3,000+ RPM cold start, with choke set, due to major crack in that hose.

Just enough vacuum in the carb to draw in needed fuel with choke closed.

Would not idle at all when the choke started to open.

 

Edit;

 

If you want to delete the AAV from yours, get an EGR for a SPFI Model, they don't have that extra port on them

Edited by TomRhere
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Engine died because unplugging that hose created a massive vacuum leak, starving the engine of fuel.

 

Bought an '84 BRAT that would do a 3,000+ RPM cold start, with choke set, due to major crack in that hose.

Just enough vacuum in the carb to draw in needed fuel with choke closed.

Would not idle at all when the choke started to open.

 

Edit;

 

If you want to delete the AAV from yours, get an EGR for a SPFI Model, they don't have that extra port on them

 

Hey Tom. Im really interested in the AAV delete. Are there any negative affects? Such as, wouldn't my car backfire more?(Currently it doesn't backfire at all, or very, very, very rarely.) Would there be any noticeable increase or decrease in mpg? and what do I do with the other tube (the smaller one) that comes out of the AAV? and would the EGR in the link that I posted work? arrggggggg!!! sorry, so many questions at once!!

Edited by Sapper 157
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Get a jy egr that doesnt have the aav port. If u have no choice the one in the link should be acceptable. The aav doesn't exactly eliminate backfiring. It may reduce deceleration pops but likely not even that. Its purpose is to introduce air during sudden closed throttle high vacuum situations where fuel can become atomized and cause rich deceleration mixtures. Or something like that. Its an emissions device. You dont need it, none of my cars have it.

To delete remove the device plug the ports it left behind, change egr valve.

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Anyone know if that's the same EGR and AAV that are stock items on my non-turbo 85 GL wagon?  If they are? .........Sapper please don't throw them out..lol.  I have to resmog my wagon every 2 years and having back ups on parts like those would help me keep it on the roads.  Just saying.... if you were going to toss them (and their fasteners, hoses, clamps, etc).   Thanks,  all the best.  Aaron 

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Anyone know if that's the same EGR and AAV that are stock items on my non-turbo 85 GL wagon?  If they are? .........Sapper please don't throw them out..lol.  I have to resmog my wagon every 2 years and having back ups on parts like those would help me keep it on the roads.  Just saying.... if you were going to toss them (and their fasteners, hoses, clamps, etc).   Thanks,  all the best.  Aaron 

that sucks you have to do stupid smog tests on your wagon. I can send the parts to you  if and when I do delete the AAV and get a new EGR. 

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Hey, I would send a cashiers check or paypal the shipping costs and be very grateful.  Yes, it's a real pain, costs more money, and that's if it passes.  If not, then...it gets expensive quick.  Last time I put over $600++ in for new Cat, numerous tests, and additives before passing and the Cat I had was only 2 years old (approx).  The mechanic says they are now built to fail sooner.  I think it's a lotta crap.  My wagon purrs, blows no smoke, and idles nice.  I am not, with my Subaru GL, gross polluting our planet like Fukishima, Depleted Uranium (DE) weapons, etc. etc. are.  Seriously, ....I'd like to spend some "disposable" income on a paint job for my wagon instead of paying it to the state, parts suppliers, and the $95 per hour mechanic for my Smog Cerificate.  Thanks Sapper!!  All the best, Aaron

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Nice work turbo!!  Your emmissions tests are probably much more pragmatic than in my area.  Heck, the readings at the tailpipe should be all that matters and not whether it's OEM and "as equiped".  Thanks for posting.....do you still have those parts and are they the same as, say for example, a 1985 EA82 GL non turbo wagon?  Just checking.  Take care, Aaron

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