opus Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Got any tips for pulling the injectors? The bracket is secured to an intake bolt...I believe it is. I surely dont want to open that can of worms just to pull injectors. Anyone know for sure? Doesnt look like a fun job from this angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I don't have a mpfi. But if I had to remove bolts that have not been turned in many years, I would take a drive to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then upon returning to the workshop, immediately loosen the bolts in question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 Let me try this; has anyone ever pulled injectors out of an MPFI ea82? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Yes, which bracket are you talking about? You'll need to unbolt the fuel rail first at the ends as the injector is inline, then you'll need to undo the 2 small bolts that hold a plate around the injector in. I remember when pulling the entire inlet manifold, finding that 2 of the bolts go all the way through into the coolant passage, meaning the end of the threads get rusted up, and needing to be removed very carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Yes, which bracket are you talking about? You'll need to unbolt the fuel rail first at the ends as the injector is inline, then you'll need to undo the 2 small bolts that hold a plate around the injector in. I remember when pulling the entire inlet manifold, finding that 2 of the bolts go all the way through into the coolant passage, meaning the end of the threads get rusted up, and needing to be removed very carefully. Ok, it looked like those were the long bolts that went into the coolant passage. I've had my time with those and I dont really want to have to fuss with them to do injectors. I am not wanting the project of pulling the manifold off to fix a snapped bolt. I was hoping there was a trick to doing it without going to that much depth. Stupid design.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 can you put up a pick of which bolt you're thinking? The fuel rails are actually in multiple pieces with hard lines joined by flexible lines. I think you can just loosen the ends without undoing those long bolts, but I'm too far away from my MPFI engine to be able to look for you myself. But do yourself a favour & try to strip away some of the other stuff like wiring first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 I think these would be them. I'm about ready to yank it all and go rubber! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 lol, ditching the factory rails has been done before. On higher power EJ20T, because the feed & return are on 1 side, the other side has been found to be starved of fuel. They just joined equal length rubber lines that joined near the throttle body so all injectors had equal pressure. Sorry, but can't really tell form the diagram if the long bolts are the ones you've shown or not (I've got a bad memory... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 I found out one was not a manifold bolt, I took that out. The other was so I cut the bracket. I was able to take the other 2 out. That's as far as I've got on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 (edited) musta missed this call before - done it a few times, and my first piece of advice is don't.Just kidding, first step is to ensure you have a rag to shove underneath between injector nozzle and the nanifold as the spring in the fuel hose in the rail tends to flick them back - smackin' the little brittle plastic end caps. From memory it is some M6 10mm head bolts to undo to get some freedom, but not a lotl Um, which mpfi ? Just NA, turbo or spider turbo ? Advice above is on non spider type (turbo makes no difference in this task) And, you may have to just follow the rail to see if the inlet to head bolt does need to come out (part of maintaining Subies - facing that demon ! ) but don't tink so HEY !! That last post of Opus was not there when I started to type this reply !! hello ! Edited April 8, 2015 by jono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Anyways, its a turbo. I think I should be fine now once I find time to do it. Thanks for the input one and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Has anyone tried to replace the rubber hose on the back of the fuel injector? Mine are pretty crusty. I'm ready to cut the crimp fitting but rather know what i'm getting into first. I have a welding gas hose repair tools that would probably work. The oxygen hose uses a similar 40 psi. looks like this: http://i45.tinypic.com/sfkxlk.jpg Any experience with this out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 I've had a fuel injector specialist replace the rubber lines when they did a service on them. Considering they way they are fitted, I think it would take specialist tools. Considering fuel spraying around a hot engine bay is bad, I'd leave that one to an expert. It's not that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now