Sapper 157 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 EA81, Hitachi carb 1984 GL Wagon I'm sick and tired of this crap! Ever since ive been messing with my vacuum system (replacing hoses, trying to figure out EGR valve) this problem has gotten to the point where I dont even want to drive the car! As soon as it warms up at all, ill go to step on the gas and the rpms will climb for a split second, then fall either to 500 or below or die completely! When Im on the road it will lose powor or jerk violently unless I floor it and rev it high (4000 to 5000 rpms) A good friend of ours who has about 40 years of car mechanics under his belt says its vapor locking. does that sound correct? I just did a Carb rebuild a few weeks ago. What could it be? please help me before I go out of my mind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) I was always under the impresion that vapor lock only happend before the fuel pump and that was the whole point of moving the pump back towards tank do you have a crazy exhaust or a relocated fuel pump if not the first place i would look would be the fuel filter and unless its new it cant hert changing it then look for bad ground or loose or pinched wires if that dosent work i would try hard wiring the fuel pump it dosent sound like a vacume leak but vacume might control something that has to do with the pump Edited March 18, 2015 by ferp420 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Did you try spraying wd40 or carb cleaner around the intake manifold to find a vacuum leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) No,that does not sound correct. Subaru pumps are mounted close to the tank on a downhill grade so there is not a long suction line to develop vapour lock. More to the point Is the carb full of fuel?-look in the sight glass-fuel should be mid level If so,you can rule out vapour lock and other fuel supply issues. It sounds to me like a main jet is partialy blocked or there is an vacuum leak in the associated air bleed system. Hi revs open the power valve and secondary barrel. Any difference if you unplug and block the EGR vacuum line? Any difference if you block vacuum input to the thermal valves? Run OK until the choke opens? Edited March 18, 2015 by naru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) I just put fresh fuel filters in late last year. Yes the carb has fuel. So I guess it isn't vapor locking then. i am positive it is not a clogged jet because I JUST cleaned them when I did my carb rebuild. Just cleaned out my AAV and my EGR and am beginning to put it back together, maybe that will help? the EGR and its inlet where almost closed off with carbon build up. Rust, no I havent and will do that as soon as its put back together. Ferb420, No my exhaust and fuel pump are standard. My fuel pump has never been changed as far as I know, do you think I should get a new one? Edited March 18, 2015 by Sapper 157 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) Naru, is the EGR vacuum line the big hose that connects to the EGR or the little one? Edited March 18, 2015 by Sapper 157 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Naru, is the EGR vacuum line the big hose that connects to the EGR or the little one? The little one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) If you don't have an EGR valve mounted to the car you've got a huge vacuum leak. When you rebuilt the carb, did you actually remove the emulsion tubes and clear them? Also did you replace the small o-rings for the airhorns? (remove pin, pull horn?) And plug that big line and ditch the AAV (or replace EGR with an F.I. one from EA82) That AAV system sucks. You can also unscrew the big stainless tube from the reed blocks and shove a quarter in each and reassemble....blocks off the pipes while lookin stock. Edited March 19, 2015 by Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) When you rebuilt the carb, did you actually remove the emulsion tubes and clear them? Also did you replace the small o-rings for the airhorns? (remove pin, pull horn? And plug that big line and ditch the AAV (or replace EGR with an F.I. one from EA82) That AAV system sucks. Ok, Um answer to question 1: Can you remind me where the emulsion tube is? and what exactly it does ? I imagine I did clean it because I tried to make sure I cleaned every inch of that Hitachi. Answer to question two: Pretty much same as answer to question one. Answer to comment 3: Yes I will be ditching that thing very soon. New EA82 EGR is on the way. Edited March 19, 2015 by Sapper 157 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 ... As soon as it warms up at all, ill go to step on the gas and the rpms will climb for a split second, then fall either to 500 or below or die completely! When Im on the road it will lose powor or jerk violently unless I floor it and rev it high (4000 to 5000 rpms) ... What could it be? ... I bet that the PCV valve is getting stuck! Worth try to remove it to Deep Cleansing and Test, replace if necessary. Kind Regards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 ... New EA82 EGR is on the way. If your Subie does Not need to pass emissions' test, I kindly suggest to block the EGR instead. Kind Regards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) If your Subie does Not need to pass emissions' test, I kindly suggest to block the EGR instead. Kind Regards. I actually just replaced the PCV yesterday. No difference . Yeah, I might end up blocking the EGR instead of replacing it. Edited March 20, 2015 by Sapper 157 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 UPDATE: I bought and installed a new EGR valve, new PCV valve, deleted my AAV, and got a new fuel pump put on. The problem seems to have gotten better with the new improvements, but it is still jerking and losing power in the lower rpms (about 1500 is when it loses power or starts to jerk). although it is not nearly as unbearable. Did vacuum and compression testing and found that my vacuum psi is a steady 16. My compression is 120 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Ok so now I am thinking probably igntion coil or plug wires? Is it okay to run an ignition coil off an EA82 on an EA81? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) I have found a Bosch coil off a Ford on one of my subies so guess a swap between EA82 and EA81 can't hurt BUT depends on which EA82 - some EA82 shared same ignition module as EA81 and that uis where it would not matter. A coil made for points ignition should not be swapped between a coil for electronic igniton module as one is sort of ~ 9V and the other ~12V. Your problem sort of sounds electrical - is sort of hard to tell even if problem is own hands, let alone remote diagnostics. The EGR valve operation is best learnt with a vacuum gauge and an in cabin spare working EGR valve T'd into the same vacuum supply line. You should then find it only operates on light throttle - AND some systems in place in some Subes as to work only below certain speeds - 30mph... and at operating temp and not when cold engine temp Look inside your coil tower - may only need some powdery scunge cleaned out 16 psi vacuum would be cause for concern - you'd be reading In Hg inches of mercury for vacuum. From memory the conversion factor is something like 27. 16psi vacuum would be something like 432 InHg ! WHOA - HOLD THE BUS !! I think you are going down same path I did when I got my first Subaru - think it was gonna be their last ..... It had been tuned, the dizzy overhauled prior to sale - I suspect it still had the (undisclosed) intermittent problem when they sold it. I then did a fulll retune with new parts, rebuilt the carby, replaced the fuel filter...sound familiar ?? Only when I opened up the empty tank inspection hole - sender unit hole, saw a pristine interior, then blew compressed air through each metal fuel sction line at a time from front to back when - always last thing you try eh ? ..the steel fuel pipe between the fuel pump rear filter to the tank- THOONK !! rust n crud landed on the floor of my pristine tank innards. Problem solved once I dragged that stuff out on a rag on a clothes hanger wire reacher .... story has resolved many EA81 vehicle woes Funny enough, that rag brings back memory of finding a rag with matching red exterior duco on one side - floating around the pick up in a TR6 that would stop up every incline and start up fine as soon as it was on the level or down hill when low on fuel Edited March 30, 2015 by jono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Only when I opened up the empty tank inspection hole - sender unit hole, saw a pristine interior, then blew compressed air through each metal fuel sction line at a time from front to back when - always last thing you try eh ? ..the steel fuel pipe between the fuel pump rear filter to the tank- THOONK !! rust n crud landed on the floor of my pristine tank innards. Problem solved once I dragged that stuff out on a rag on a clothes hanger wire reacher .... story has resolved many EA81 vehicle woes Funny enough, that rag brings back memory of finding a rag with matching red exterior duco on one side - floating around the pick up in a TR6 that would stop up every incline and start up fine as soon as it was on the level or down hill when low on fuel HOLD YOUR HORSES. Are you telling me that the problem could be something as simple as crap in my steel fuel lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 ... Are you telling me that the problem could be something as simple as crap in my steel fuel lines? ... the steel fuel pipe between the fuel pump rear filter to the tank ... rust n crud landed on the floor ... Problem solved once I dragged that stuff out ... Seems like Yes, and despite that really is a Good idea to check those lines carefully. I wonder why the issues you're experiencing, are only on the Low RPM's spectrum, Maybe the Carburetor's float has something to do with the issue... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Maybe the Carburetor's float has something to do with the issue... Thats possible, but I sure hope not. Those darn hitachis are so complex! Truthfully im surprised my friend and I were able to put everything back together correctly on the first try! Edited March 31, 2015 by Sapper 157 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 ... Those darn hitachis are so complex! ... Yes, and Tricky... That's Why I solved all the problems inherent to those Hitachi Carburetors, by doing this: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Has anyone even checked the fuel pressure at the carb and fuel flow? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 could well be just rusty crud build up in the fuel lines. I even renewed the rear fit fuel pump before I got really inconvenienced by this problem. was blamed on a new fuel discounters fuel, then one night - the night that was gonna prove or disprove the good ol' Y2K bug 31.12.1999 - I had to top up with their fuel and it ran like a rocket up to the top of the mountain road nearby - gravel and in 4WD. Mine was so much a bitch in the cool of the night and OK during the day - when I had time to chase symptoms that failed to show. 11pm knock off and I'd start it OK and then try to drive up the steep road - kangaroo hopped, bucked and carried on...or turn to go down the incline to warm her up and she'd get me home to bed - no 'roos, no pigs. Then, one Sat arvo on the way to work, warm temp, level and normal driving, just bucked and died on me - still able to start, but hardly driveable. I had done everything except open the tank or blow the lines 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Sapper, this sounds like a problem I had on my ea81 Hatchie. It would run like crap at low rpm's. However, if I got the rpm's over 4k, then it would run better. I watched my tach, and it seemed to jump all over the place. That was my clue to a faulty distributor. I had Philbin in Portland OR rebuild the entire disty. Cost about $120. Took 5 days total (by U.S. Mail) That resolved my problem. Try swapping distributors, if you have a buddy with a running ea81 close by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Just cleaned my primary fuel line today... no rust, no crud, no nothing. I kinda wish it would have been that so that at least it would have been something simple. So now I'm thinking its something with the disty like RD was saying, or possibly something else electrical. when that search comes up blank, im going after the carb float. If that is to no avail, I think I'll just pour some nitroglycerin in the gas tank and blow it up*... Because I have had it up to HERE with this stupid problem! *(this portion of this post is not necessarily the opinion of the writer, when he is not filled with blind rage at a problem he cant fix) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Have you ever checked the gas cap to make sure it works properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Have you ever checked the gas cap to make sure it works properly? How would I go about that nipper? Im pretty sure it works, but then again what do i know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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