IVE HAD ENOUGH! Help Me Figure out my Vapor Locking!

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

"sometimes 2 plus 2 does equal 5"

 

actually, I was quoting from a translation from a Mediterranean proverb

 

Here, people say 1+1 = 3   

 

You know...  Sorry for the offtopic posts.

 

---

 

Back on Topic, This:

 

 

The higher the fuel is the less of a hill it has to climb to exit the discharge.

Like the difference between a short straw on a full milkshake and a long one pulling from the bottom.

It takes less pressure difference between the venturi and the bowl to push the same amount of fuel when the float level

is higher...

 

Yes but also, the Higher the Fuel level on the float chamber, the easier the carb could get flooded.

 

Those tricky adjustments, plus physics & fluids laws, are the reason why carburation is an Art,

 

while Fuel injection is a Science.

 

Kind Regards.

[Sapper 157]

...physics & fluids laws, are the reason why carburation is an Art,

 

while Fuel injection is a Science.

 

Kind Regards.

+1 

 

Wisdom right there 

[Sapper 157]

UPDATE: Well after a few days of bliss, the problem returned. AP (accelerator pump) STILL wont work.  

 Although the jerking is not as bad, because when I richened the mix, it made more fuel flow in to make up for the lost AP fuel. So since I cannot find the problem, (although at least I know it is the AP) I am going to simply replace the carb with one that Ferox gave me. I pulled the carb off my engine and as I was getting Ferox's carb ready to put in I realized that the gasgets had baked due to the heat generated (I donno why I thought that his wouldn't happen.) so now my soob is down until I can get the new gaskets from rockauto. After im done with this crap im going to delete the extra emissions that are on the new carb. 

Question: Is it possible to delete my ECS canister? Would I be able to just plug all the lines that lead to the canister? Or would that have ill effects on my sensitive hitachi? The reason I ask is because I don't think my canister works since the ECS light never comes on when I turn the car on. (before it came into my family's possession the previous owner went through and messed with all the electronics)

 

P.S. Thanks for all your help guys!

Edited May 6, 2015 by Sapper 157

[comatosellama]

could well be just rusty crud build up in the fuel lines. I even renewed the rear fit fuel pump before I got really inconvenienced by this problem.

 

was blamed on a new fuel discounters fuel, then one night - the night that was gonna prove or disprove the good ol' Y2K bug 31.12.1999 - I had to top up with their fuel and it ran like a rocket up to the top of the mountain road nearby - gravel and in 4WD.

 

Mine was so much a bitch in the cool of the night and OK during the day - when I had time to chase symptoms that failed to show.

 

11pm knock off and I'd start it OK and then try to drive up the steep road - kangaroo hopped, bucked and carried on...or turn to go down the incline to warm her up and she'd get me home to bed - no 'roos, no pigs. Then, one Sat arvo on the way to work, warm temp, level and normal driving, just bucked and died on me - still able to start, but hardly driveable. I had done everything except open the tank or blow the lines

Is there a google translate for strayan?

[jono]

i do not think the angled tube is anything more than an air vent for the float chamber? Not supposed to deliver fuel at all ! It would poor out and have trouble atomising in order to burn nice. Is a flaot in the carby sinking allowing chamber to flood and nowhere for fuel to go other than up and out the bowl vent tube ? Think that is near enough the technical name ! Floats crack and develop leaks, allowing fuel to slowly build up inside so it then changes its function from float to sink, sits lower than should be, allows more fuel in to the bowl .....

 

I have had brass floats sink. need to test submerged in fuel for a while to see if they take it in, shake shake after to see.....if any got inside float

Edited May 7, 2015 by jono