1999 outback transmission is kaput

[keepemrunning]

This is a love/hate relationship. Love driving it but I've got all the major issues of this era. Had the head gaskets replaced about 3 years back and then the trans began the trouble of not wanting to go into gear. I replaced the fluid and filter several times and that fixed it for a while. Now it won't go into any gear.

 

I really don't/can't pay the $3k for a rebuilt trans. What are the odds of rebuilding it myself?

 

I thought I found a used one online but I got the same quote for the same transmission from 3 different websites so I backed away from that. 

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks!

[1 Lucky Texan]

I'd def. try Trans-X treatment first. some folks have good luck with it - though it seems it needs to be re-freshed every year or so?

 

try a search for threads about that.

[john in KY]

Would you have any interest in a low mileage transmission but with the 4.11 ratio? Been in dry storage for at least 10 years. 

[idosubaru]

then the trans began the trouble of not wanting to go into gear. I

 

that's a couple dollar easy fix - Auto Trans X.  

 

alternately install a used transmission, www.car-part.com

might need to search around to see what other years are compatible, but should be able to find a relatively inexpensive option.

[keepemrunning]

Tex, I'll look into it but I can't even get it to go into reverse. I assumed that wasn't an option at this point. I was surprised that the trans fluid was not black when I first changed it.

 

John, I'm not sure what the ratio variance would mean in performance and if it's been sitting for 10 years would I still need to replace all the seals? But I'm interested.

 

Thanks

[1 Lucky Texan]

well, just idling i guess the Trans-X would start to circulate - might free things up.

 

Unless you're saying you have no transportation in which case food may be a bigger priority!

[upnorthguy]

Tex, I'll look into it but I can't even get it to go into reverse. I assumed that wasn't an option at this point. I was surprised that the trans fluid was not black when I first changed it.

 

John, I'm not sure what the ratio variance would mean in performance and if it's been sitting for 10 years would I still need to replace all the seals? But I'm interested.

 

Thanks

The gear ratio of any transmission you swap in needs to match your rear differential.  (Or swap in a differential with matching gear ratio to your "new" transmission.)

[keepemrunning]

Tex and GrossGary, like you said, it can't hurt to try and a heck of a lot cheaper. I used SeaFoam and that helped initially but lost effectiveness  after several fluid changes.

Love the Car-part web site, I found several transmissions within a few hours driving distance if that's the way I go.

 

Upnorth Guy and John, I thought that's what was meant by ratio but thought I may have missed something. Thanks. I'll have to check what I have.

 

Could I be barking up the wrong tree and have a selinoid or sensor issue?

[idosubaru]

yes it could be something else.  yes it could be total failure.

 

if it's a sensor usually the AT or POWER light will blink 16 times at start up.

 

1.  does the light blink at start up?

2.  what is the fluid level sitting at?

3.  is the fluid nice, new, bright pink or something else?

4.  if you move the shifter lever in the cabin - does the corresponding cabling on the passengers side of the transmission move properly too?

5.  does the inhibitor switch seem to be switching properly?
6.  are there any check engine lights?

7.  is the transmission pan dented?
8.  any prior trans work or accidents?

9.  if you leave it in drive and rev the RPM's a small amount and leave it in drive for 1 minutes - does it eventually go into gear?

10.  if you turn the car on and off a few time and keep moving the selector - will it go into gear?

11.  when you move the selector by hand - does hte corresponding selector range on the instrument cluster change?

 

did it work great one day then the next it didn't go into gear at all?  what's the story?

[AdventureSubaru]

Are you saying you shift the trans into drive (or reverse) and nothing happens?

 

If so - the issue is known as "delayed forward engagement" and Trans-X is your fix. Any car parts chain store should have it. It has solved this problem numerous times on these late 99-2001 transmissions including my wifes old 2000 Outback. Do a search on here for trans-x / delayed forward engagement and you'll see the write ups.

 

If we're talking popping out of gear/slippage etc. then it's something else. But if the trans simply doesn't go into gear, the trans X will take care of it and seems to need renewed about once a year.

 

I think you're looking at a $6. fix and not a new/used transmission.

[keepemrunning]

If it's a sensor usually the AT or POWER light will blink 16 times at start up.

No flashing but it's been a while so I need to check.

 

1.  does the light blink at start up?

I don't think so but I will have to check again

2.  what is the fluid level sitting at? At the proper level,

I had changed it out a few months before it stopped and was at the right level last time I checked

3.  is the fluid nice, new, bright pink or something else?

I was surprised the first time I swapped it out. It had not been changed and was still nice and red when I first changed it

4.  if you move the shifter lever in the cabin - does the corresponding cabling on the passengers side of the transmission move properly too?

Hmm, good question, I'll have to check

5.  does the inhibitor switch seem to be switching properly?
Another item I'll have to look at
6.  are there any check engine lights?

I believe there was a check engine light. I need to it on and start it up to see what is on or flashing.

7.  is the transmission pan dented?
I actually know this answer, no.
8.  any prior trans work or accidents?

No

9.  if you leave it in drive and rev the RPM's a small amount and leave it in drive for 1 minutes - does it eventually go into gear?

It used to, This all started about a year ago with a little hesitation and kept getting worse. I replaced the fluid 3 time over about 3 months using high mileage trans fluid and sea foam. It worked great for a while then came back. I replaced the fluid again and didn't help as much as the first series. Eventually, everything stopped. Reverse worked fine up to the final outage. It never smelled hot.

I did have to replace the HG's and the AT light came on when the engine overheated. That happened about 3 times. The radiator and water pump have been replaced just prior to having the HG's replaced.

10.  if you turn the car on and off a few time and keep moving the selector - will it go into gear?

Not repeatedly. I was afraid of making things worse. I'll give it a shot.

11.  when you move the selector by hand - does hte corresponding selector range on the instrument cluster change?

This model/year doesn't have it on the dash, always frustrated me to have to look down at the console.

 

The Trans-X sounds pretty potent, Towards the end I tried some other stuff which was pretty thick. Now I'm thinking it may have aggrevated the situation.

 

Thanks everyone!

[1 Lucky Texan]

might be labeled CRC or K&W ?

 

a few good reviews at Amazon; http://www.amazon.com/CRC-402015-Trans-X-Slip-Stop-Leak-Fix/dp/B000CITXQM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

[keepemrunning]

Well, I finally got out to chatge the battery and start the car checking for any flashing lights and status of the transmission once again.

Hmm, No flashing AT or power5 lights. It does have the check engine illuminated.

Worse was the noise when putting it into gear... clicking like it was trying but wouldn't engage. I did it a couple of times running through 1-D and reverse. Once, when I put it into Park it continued to click.

I haven't gotten under it yet to check the linkage or actuators. After the rain and gets a little warmer out (this weekend).

[keepemrunning]

Something new when I started it up today. The speedometer moved when I put it into gear. 

[ThosL]

I was getting some slipping so used Lucas tranny treatment which did the trick.

 

I paid around $1K for a guaranteed used one from F and S; installation was around $500.  

[sirtokesalot]

I was getting some slipping so used Lucas tranny treatment which did the trick.

 

I paid around $1K for a guaranteed used one from F and S; installation was around $500.  

 i tried lucas in mine ones and it made things worst so i drained it.

[ThosL]

Some mechanics say to not do a transmission flush/filter change as it may make things worse.  

[AdventureSubaru]

Tried Tans-X yet? If it's delayed engagement it will do the trick. If it's something else, you're only out six bucks.

 

Took care of my wife's old car in 30 minutes and we drove it that way another 60k before selling the car.

[keepemrunning]

Now, I'm going to show my true ignorance. Do I check the fluid level with the car idling in neutral/park or turned off. If I check my level when the car is off it looks ok. When running, warmed up and in neutral it doesn't show except at the very bottom of the dip stick.

 

I changed the fluid out and put in 3.5 qts plus trans-x and it grabbed in drive but popped out. Reverse is still clicking like it's not fully engaging.

 

If this is a fluid level issue I'll be banging my head against the wall.

[1 Lucky Texan]

auto trans fluid is the only one that requires you to check while idling to get an accurate reading. Even better if the car is at operating temp. (the fans have come on at least once)

 

many people overlook that. i even know better, but gave myself a fright years ago when hurriedly checking fluids before a road trip - thought the trans was overfilled for about 10 seconds! lol!

 

trans-x, even new fluid, may take a while to help with any gummy deposits or stiff seals, etc. Of course, if the car isn't getting better - time to look elsewhere. Additives cannot fix most true failures. The can 'occasionally' undo poor maintenance, in certain areas, IF you are lucky.

Edited March 31, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[darsdoug]

I may need a couple Excedrin.