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Verdurous's 1989 GL Hatch Build Thread


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 I was unable to find the repair kit with c clips. So ended up grinding off the ends of the old rivets. I was planning to use bolts/nuts but the mounting holes were the same size as the orginal pin so I ended up just reusing them without the broken nylon. After I wirebrushed and hammered them back together, I hit them with a spot of weld. If I need to replace them later I will just repeat the process. Dipped them in some rust converter, planning on painting them tonight.

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Hey look what finally came in! And it looks like the right one too! Now if only I can manage to salvage enough chrome strips for it :)

 

Hey look what finally came in! And it looks like the right one too! Now if only I can manage to salvage enough chrome strips for it :)

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Edited by Verdurous
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  • 9 months later...

Back in early October I completely resealed, rust treated, primed, and re-coated the floors. Trying to stop that evil rust from the inside as best as I can. I chipped up the dried out stock sound deadening tar because I believe it was trapping moisture/salt underneath and progressing rust. I used a rubberized bed liner instead. A nice thick coat, to make up for it. I did not have all the factory plugs so I ended up cutting up an old oil bottle (black plastic) and using a marine silicone rtv adhesive. The factory rubber padding was not bad, so I power washed it and reinstalled it.

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In late October I rerouted the e-brake cables to compensate for the 4" lift, I also had to modify the 4x4 linkage. I end up combining two of them together with an extension the length of the lift. Surprisingly it end up working out just fine. I painted the handle with a vinyl dye, and used undercoating on the linkage itself. I would like to shorten the throw on the main shift level itself at some point as it feels sloppy, but it works fine for now.

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I did about the same thing on my hatch to the floor pan but i welded all the holes shut or put rubber plugs in

Yeah, I guess you noticed the rust build up under that old tar too :)  It might have been good when it was new, but that stuff just seemed to crack and hold in all the moisture. I see you had some of the same spots starting. Felt good to get that taken care of.

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So I got a new windshield in today, drove the car from one garage to the next. Windshield looks awesome, when I went to move the car back to the other garage I decided to leave it running to charge the battery and warm up a little. Now I haven't really run it at all since I put the new heater core in, but when I came back my radiator cap was loose and the overflow was pissing on the ground. I am hoping I just didn't put it on tight enough. I did not see any water in the oil, or oil in the water.. but damn I only have about 900 miles on that engine since the rebuild.. a head gasket would suck. Seems to start and run fine, didn't really see any smoke.. but my coolent was obvious down some. I've have to diagnose it more this weekend when I get some time, was hoping to have it inspected and on the road by next week.. :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for the part number TomRhere, the OEM manifold gaskets are now installed, with the copper spray recommended by JesZek. They are so much thicker than the felpros it put my mind at ease over the intake!

 

However after doing everything I found the culprit turned out to be the lower intake on the heater core. Idling over some fresh powder snow, the subie was marking it's territory with a very small drip coming from the lower hose. The lower input wasn't getting a very good seal, I'm going to have to do something about it this weekend. In the mean time I have been having a blast in the snow.... just no heat atm! burrrrr.... For those of you living in cold places what thermostat do you recommend? Also... anyone with weber 32/26 tuning advice is needed... Getting some really bad mileage atm.. running a bit too rich.

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How many miles to the gallon are you getting? Are you doing a lot of short trips or do you commute with it? My dads stock hatch has 241 thousand miles on it with a weber 32/36 that i put on and tuned. It gets about 22-24 with a mix of highway and short trips. The distributor is fully advanced on it and it has quite a bit of power. It helps your gas mileage if you stay out of the second barrel too. Your carb could be jetted wrong for where your at. I know skylar is getting 16-18 with his lifted hatch which is about what your gonna get with it. My hatch with a ej22 gets anywhere from 25 on the highway to about 13-14 for short trips/playing around.

Edited by turbosubarubrat
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That is nice. I am restoring a 1983 GL 4x4 Hatchback as well. I just got the engine rebuilt, new struts..... I have put a nice chunk of change into this little guy and have ran into a big problem. I cannot find a clutch bearing, Koyo #DAC2358N anywhere. This car has been in shops for well over a year and 3 months in a transmission shop for this part alone. If anyone can help me find one please let me know. Thanks and good luck on yours.

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That is nice. I am restoring a 1983 GL 4x4 Hatchback as well. I just got the engine rebuilt, new struts..... I have put a nice chunk of change into this little guy and have ran into a big problem. I cannot find a clutch bearing, Koyo #DAC2358N anywhere. This car has been in shops for well over a year and 3 months in a transmission shop for this part alone. If anyone can help me find one please let me know. Thanks and good luck on yours.

The throw out bearing should have been in the clutch kit.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268311,parttype,1968

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