ThosL Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 If power is off, you are "coasting" down the hill because the engine was overheating, do you do real damage to the brake system to use them when the ignition is off? I'm getting a nasty grinding noise now after this a couple days ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Does no harm. The brakes are just a hydraulic system, all the engine does is provide vacuum to the booster so you don't have to step so hard on the pedal to build up pressure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I jacked the vehicle up today and found that the pads were worn out, inner one was metal on metal. So went back to Auto Zone for pads and rotor, but bolts holding the rotor in was not coming off even with PB Blaster used a number of times. Breaker bars are often too big to get in there so may make an appointment with mechanic who has the power tool as I probably need a pro to do a couple other things too. Smoke came off the wheel I changed pads on, is that excess brake fluid, as the fluid was topped off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) Is the rotor on that side getting hot? Make sure the pads aren't dragging if the caliper is frozen or whatever. What bolts holding the rotor in? That makes it sound like you're working on a GL. Do you mean the caliper bracket bolts? You can get a breaker bar on those, you just need an extension and some creativity. There's no reason you need a pro to do the brakes for you. Instead spend the money on the proper tools, then next time something breaks you'll have the tools already and can do it yourself. Now that I think about it, the top caliper bracket bolt on EJs can be annoying, I usually take a 17mm box end wrench, and do the trick where you gang another wrench onto the end of it. Use that to pry it loose. The other trick is to get one bolt out of the bracket, and then rock it back and forth to loosen up the bolt that refuses to come loose. Edited March 27, 2015 by 987687 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Sounds pretty complicated. I'm afraid that the caliper is freezing up, as the drag is unbelievable. Don't know how that happened and it could greatly complicate making the vehicle road worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 It really isn't very complicated... it's just removing a bolt. But if you don't feel comfortable fixing your brakes, please take it to someone who does... Last thing I want is someone plowing into me because their brakes failed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks for the technique recommendation. But my biggest concern now is not the rotor which I couldn't install but the caliper possibly breaking down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I still have no idea what your car is, but I've had issues on the EJ cars with dual piston calipers in the front where the bottom piston kinda seizes up a bit and drags the brakes. Same with the bottom slide pin. But seriously, get it fixed properly.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 '99 Legacy Outback wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Yea, I bet your bottom slide pin on the side with dragging pads is seized or partially seized causing issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 How hard, may I ask, is it to install a caliper? I have not had luck bleeding brakes which would have to happen if I switch out the old one. There is no way to save it with trying to free up the frozen piston, PB Blaster, etc.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) You'd have to check if it's broken. You'll have to take it apart and determine that. Definitely remove the caliper slide pins, clean and grease them with some brake grease. To bleed the brakes open the bleeder, have someone step on the brake pedal, when their foot is almost on the floor close the bleed screw, have them lift off the brake pedal. Repeat until the air is out. IF nothing is coming out of the bleeder screw it's probably clogged up. Take it out, clean the crap out of the little holes, and then bleed the brakes. I usually spray brake cleaner in the thing while sticking a bit of stainless wire or something through the little holes in the screw to clear it out. Edited March 27, 2015 by 987687 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Is there any way to install a new brake caliper and not need to go through all the bleeding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 No, there isn't. Bleeding the brakes is really easy, just do the job the correct way.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) My advice is to take it to your nearest mechanically inclined friend or honest mechanic as you dont sound confident in your own skills, if you decide otherwise Youtube can be a great resource for how-to videos and i encourage you to spend a couple hours doing some good research before going in either direction. Edited March 28, 2015 by Razorthirty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) Here is one of the better youtube videos on Subaru brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_1kMWIiwKw I did not see anything specifically on Subaru Outback calipers and bleeding them. Edited March 28, 2015 by ThosL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 You bleed the brakes on the outback the same way you bleed the brakes on anything else. Open the bleeder screw, have someone step on the brake pedal, close the bleeder screw. Don't run out of fluid in the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 You bleed the brakes on the outback the same way you bleed the brakes on anything else. Open the bleeder screw, have someone step on the brake pedal, close the bleeder screw. Don't run out of fluid in the reservoir. Isn't that have someone step on the pedal and then open the bleeder valve and then close it before they release the pedal and then repeat. At least that is the way that I was taught. Also hook a hose onto the bleeder valve and place it in a clear container with a little brake fluid in the bottom of it and place the hose into that with the end submerged. That way you can watch for bubbles in the bleed fluid as you bleed the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Auto Zone had a mechanic they recommended to me this morning; I called him he said he would be able to fit me in and did the caliper and rotor on the one wheel for $80. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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