lstevens76 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Prior to roughly Spring of 2014 I know nothing about this car, other than it was in Washington. My grandfather bought it for my Uncle who had fun getting a title. It started making a horrid noise (will get there) and he parked it so I bought it for what was originally paid ($200) minus any costs getting the title. I already was sure of what the problem was when I bought it, and I was right. One of the idlers (the cogged one) for the timing belt had blown apart internally. Fortunately it wasn't driven really after this happened so a new timing belt, idlers, and water pump and it runs. Now to the issues: 1.) I get intermittent Battery, Stop Lamp, and Brake lights all at the same time on the dash. What's weird about this even more is the headlights brighten when these come on, not dim, and when they go off they dim. This light issue isn't consistent though (brightning and dimming) and I don't know if that happens much during the day. The battery has been replaced since I've owned (been running almost a month now). 2.) I need to pull codes (been reading on that) as I have a rough idle, but sometimes it smooths out, and sometimes it doesn't. Today was the first time I've seen the check engine light so I do want to pull codes, but I'm all ears for any other ideas. When the timing belt was done I also replaced the plugs and wires (NGK Platinum and Bosch Wires). 3.) When turning to the left I hear a "hum" from what seems to be the right front. This only occurs when turning to the left, and at no other times. 4.) Drivers side window (see picture) tilts to the front, likes it's off the front track. I looked inside and it appears it has a regulator and a slider in front. Does the slider actually hold the front of the window in place or is this a problem with the regulator staying level? I may come up with more issues later, but these are the most pressing ones. This is my "gas saver beater" I use to run my son to and from school so I want it to be safe and reliable. Thanks. Edited April 1, 2015 by lstevens76 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Thinking about this I should add a few more things regarding the idle issue: Cold starts are almost always perfect. Warm starts sometimes take 30 to 60 seconds for it to catch and start. I've also seen some idle speed fluctuations. Normally appears to idle around 750 but goes up to 1k rpms at times and holds, then goes back down, etc... Occasionally it will do an up/down thing a few times before settling. Edited April 1, 2015 by lstevens76 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Great price even with the "to do" list. Definitely get those codes pulled. Autozone or about any chain store will get them for you for free. I am guessing the alternator is beginning to fail for number 1. Check and clean up the contact points for battery and alternator and inspect the cables. A $20-$40 one from a junkyard is just fine for replacement. If it does fail it can leave you stranded. Follow the codes based on what they say and you'll probably find your idle issue solved. If not start looking at fuel filter etc. Edited April 1, 2015 by AdventureSubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Pulled the code last night and got 21. This isn't OBD 2 so Parts Stores aren't going to pull them. The code points to an issue w/ the ECT so I will be replacing it in the next few days along with the Fuel Filter and the PCV. Hoping that corrects the idle problem. The hum noise when turning left concerns me due to the fact it is only there when turning. So any ideas on that? And I would like to know what could be the causes of the window problems. That window simply drives me nuts because I can't easily put it back up while driving. I have had it apart and looked, but without a reference to base off or ideas of what to look for I'm not sure how things are supposed to be in there. It's not the same as my Durango which I have replaced a window regulator on. And leaving me on the side of the road doesn't concern me as much as something causing an accident, such as that hum. This is my gas saver and I still have my '01 Durango which I 100% trust (I've done a ton of work to it myself) and if the Subaru dies on the side of the road I can just go to tow it home w/ the Durango and a buddy's tow dolly. But if that hum noise is something serious and I lose a tire, lay a tire down flat, etc... and cause an accident there isn't any towing home from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Warm start problem is due to the ECT sensor. The ECT goes bad and the computer thinks its -40° so goes full rich on startup. This floods the engine on warm starts which takes longer cranking time to clear fuel out of the cylinders. It will also hurt fuel economy big time. The windows on these are a pain in the rump roast. Probably the regulator is damaged but there are several points where the regulator has to pivot and slide. Pull the door panel off and you should be able to figure out where it isn't attached anymore. The regulator is a scissor type with a big damn spring in the middle and takes some trickery to remove the motor from without hurting yourself. It also has multiple adjustments that have to be made when replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Ok. So partway fixed. Put a used alternator in and the dash light problem is resolved. It idles better, but it's still somewhat rough and takes 30 to 60 seconds to go from 1k rpm down to 750 after depressing the clutch. what was done: Used alternator new ect new fuel filter new pcv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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