phase2scooby Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I know theres a bunch of threads floating around about lifts but I was wondering will say 2006 subaru forester struts and springs fit my 99 legacy wagon and if so will I get the desired 3 inch lift I want .I seen something about having to use the stock legacy top hats instead of the foresters can anyone clarify wat I would need for a 3 inch lift. I plan on trying to run 215/75/r15 general grabber 2 or 235/75/r15 of the same tire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 3"YOU will need a complete lift kit found here www.sjrlift.com . the struts will only get 1-1-1/2" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phase2scooby Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Yeah sorry not buying you lift kit for 600 bucks bud . Especially considering your trailing arm brackets bend I've seen pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) The forester struts are a direct bolt on for your lift set up. Now if you wanting more than the 1-1.5" of lift that it will give you i would go with a 2" lift on top of that. It though will require you to have the forester sub frame spacers/trailing arms/brackets or a proper trailing arm spacer. you can clear with the 06 struts a 215/70/16 easy. so the 15's all day. but the 235's is a challenge, either offset wheels and spacers, or a lower strut lift bracket and wheel spacers. best to lift with Forester struts FIRST than lift with a lift. You gain larger tires clearance due to the higher spring perch and a better ride. My contacts are below, if you have any questions feel free to email me! Patrick Edited April 4, 2015 by Prwa101 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondercow2 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) How much CV and steering geometry trouble will the '04-'08 Forester strut-spring-tophat combo cause on a BK legacy without adding the subframe spacers? I am seeing all kinds of conflicting information about 1.5" effective lift on a 2nd gen legacy vs 3.5-4" lift. Is the higher number from the forester springs and tophats? I have a stock '98 Legacy L that needs new struts but at 185k miles the springs and tophats probably need to go too, and the Forester struts are available as a complete quick strut at a good price. I am willing to add the outback rear trailing arm brackets and maybe play with sway bar links, but adding the subframe spacers, a new steering coupler, etc. is just not worth it for me. I'd be happy with the 1-1.5" from OB struts but getting new OB springs is pricey; only the dealerships seem to stock them. Edited April 23, 2015 by wondercow2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 How much CV and steering geometry trouble will the '04-'08 Forester strut-spring-tophat combo cause on a BK legacy without adding the subframe spacers? I am seeing all kinds of conflicting information about 1.5" effective lift on a 2nd gen legacy vs 3.5-4" lift. Is the higher number from the forester springs and tophats? I have a stock '98 Legacy L that needs new struts but at 185k miles the springs and tophats probably need to go too, and the Forester struts are available as a complete quick strut at a good price. I am willing to add the outback rear trailing arm brackets and maybe play with sway bar links, but adding the subframe spacers, a new steering coupler, etc. is just not worth it for me. I'd be happy with the 1-1.5" from OB struts but getting new OB springs is pricey; only the dealerships seem to stock them. I do not see any issues with cv/steering if you are only going to bolt-in stock Forester struts (assuming you use one of the accommodations for the mismatching rear top bolt-pattern). You could feasibly stick with stock Foz struts and use top hat spacers (3/8") to achieve a little over a 1.5" lift without having to mess with re-situating the sub-frame. You would still need to get a trailing arm spacer, or use the Outback trailing arms. Thicker top hat spacers can be achieved but by replacing the top mount studs with longer ones. I can't stand by how this set-up holds up, I've heard claims of it being weaker than mounting the top-hat directly to the chassis. Maybe another member has experience with using them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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