stuff i got at pull and save today

[soopsoop]

when i turned my ign on in my 88dl i didn't hear anything so i starting wiggling wires around,i know that is not the scientific way to test but my cheap harbor freight meters read 12v  without being hooked up to anything so i made a test light and i think the ign switch is bad,any way i got a new used ign switch and a ign relay and all the fusable links as well,i also got the resistors for the a/c blower fan i only had to fix one wire i will try it out tomarrow when i get time. i also got the metal bracket for the radio boy was that a pain. i am going to try to find a wiring diagram of the ign because haynes doesn't have one,i also got a coil and amp the other day,all the distributors were taken.once i get the car running then i can work on the front end like axles,brakes,hoses,and rotors and bearings,yeah.

[falconer315]

Gotta love the pick-n-pull.

[Subasaurus]

i remember the distributor issue i had lol, that was fun, ended up just buying a remanufactured one ($200) they were all gone (for a reason) also how are you going to test anything with a cheap meter? its unreliable. and so are the parts you got, would make me really mad when i would get something at the junkyard, and it wouldn't work, and how was the radio bracket a pain? phillips stripped? subaru does put them pretty tight if no one had taken them off before. coils aren't too expensive for new ones btw, the same one that goes there costs about $25 while the yellow more powerful one is $32ish, cant remember too well now. i used to sneak in a 9volt battery in to test things out with since its total bs that they dont let you test the stuff before you buy it, ofcourse you can't since they don't have enough money already buying cars for $125.

[soopsoop]

i went to harbor freight and bought there test light kit,it has a12v test light and high voltage test light and a contiunuity tester for about 10 bucks if the components themselves have continuity then it is a bad connection or bad ground or a bad battrey if i get real brave i can use my fathers  200 dollar test equipment but that's overkill subarus are not that complicated.

[scoobiedubie]

You are wasting your money until you narrow down the cause of your current problem.

1.  Does the radio work?  If not, then battery may be dead or corroded battery terminals.  If yes, then move on.

2.  Does the motor spin?  If not, then starter or black fusible link.  If yes, then move on.

3.  Does the rotor spin? Take off the distributor cap and see if it spins when you crank the engine.  If it does not spin, then you have a
broken left side timing belt.  If it does spin then either distributor, cap, coil or coil lead wire.

4.  Are you getting spark to the plugs?  With a timing light, you can see if it lights up when you crank the engine.  If no light, then either distributor, coil, distributor cap, or coil lead wire.  Change to a different distributor that you know is good.  Always carry a spare.  If still no spark then change the distributor cap.  If still no spark then change the coil lead wire.  If still no spark then change the coil.

5.  If you have a spark but does not start, then you may have fuel problem.  Check for wet plugs.  If dry plugs then look at fuel pump. 

An experienced mechanic will be able to point out a hundred more things that may have inexplicably gone bad.  I am just pointing to what I think is the most likely things to go bad.

[damnsubaru]

it was a bad ground wire up under the dash. not sure which one but everything worked when I wiggled the wires.