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from ej25 to ej22 swap questions


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OK I have the motor in, i crank and  crank the motor and it will not start. do i need to change the engine wiring harness off of the old engine to the new 22e? does the 96 legacy coil have the ignitor built in like the 99 ej25d? also there are 2 ends for hoses in the front passenger side of the motor, if i put on the hose for these, where should they route to?

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Hi,

- The harness plugged in just like the '99's correct?  On the passenger side of the transmission/ rear of engine - 3 plugs? If so, that's all there is to it.

- Those 2 hoses are probably vacuum lines for the charcoal canister. The 2.2's/earlier models have them up front; the newer/2.5's are in back. There is info on that on here and what to do w/them....I don't remember.

- I 'thought' all the '90-'99's had the ignitor mounted to the firewall similar to this?

ignitor-96.jpg

 

Fuel, spark, air:

 

- Did you  make sure your fuel lines are properly connected? Easy to criss-cross.

- Verified plugs and wires are all connected?

- MAF is plugged in?

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OK I have the motor in, i crank and  crank the motor and it will not start. do i need to change the engine wiring harness off of the old engine to the new 22e? does the 96 legacy coil have the ignitor built in like the 99 ej25d? also there are 2 ends for hoses in the front passenger side of the motor, if i put on the hose for these, where should they route to?

 

Yes, you need to swap the engine wiring harness.  The ECU is expecting the signals from it. 

Basically, the wiring that came with that ECU needs to stay with that ECU.

Edited by ccrinc
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Yes, you need to swap the engine wiring harness.  The ECU is expecting the signals from it. 

Basically, the wiring that came with that ECU needs to stay with that ECU.

 

That is a general philosophy but is not the case here.

 

1996 EJ22 is plug and play into any 1996-1999 EJ25D.  No wiring or ECU swapping or considerations are necessary.

 

1. Remove EJ25 engine (complete engine, intake, etc)

2. Install EJ22 and plug it in

3. It'll run

 

That being said - the details of this swap are hard to follow - can you verify this is a 1996 EJ22 going into a 1999 EJ25D?

 

Check:

1. for spark at all 4 cylinders

2.  fuel pressure

3.  timing marks

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i have fuel pressure, spark, timing is off 3-4 teeth now though, when one replaces the timing belt, and the tensioner do they also replace the hydraulic assembly on that as well? what would cause a motor that hasnt been started yet to skip timing that much by trying to start the motor or turning the motor by hand via crank bolt?

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engine rotates clock wise if i am looking at the front of the motor correct?

Correct...a new belt would be marked...

 

i have fuel pressure, spark, timing is off 3-4 teeth now though, when one replaces the timing belt, and the tensioner do they also replace the hydraulic assembly on that as well? what would cause a motor that hasnt been started yet to skip timing that much by trying to start the motor or turning the motor by hand via crank bolt?

I don't know....

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teeth skipping:

tensioner

belt is too tight

seems highly unlikely but camshaft is seized?

 

unlikely but, is it turning over really fast - maybe valves are bent.  while 1996 is non-interference this wouldn't be the first interference 1996 engine to bend valves...and even if it came out of a 1996 - that doesn't mean it wasn't previously swapped with a later model.

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what's the story on the EJ22 - was this a low mileage grandma owned car that ran perfect before you pulled it?

 

or

 

a craigslist special, requested cash, and met you in a back alley, never telling you his name or info?

Edited by grossgary
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the ej22 is out of a 96, i did actually find the vin on the block, i took all the timing components and water pump from my 25d minus the belt and tensioner meaning they will not work with the 96 22e, I did put on a new timing belt on the 22e, the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly are the only things i did not change, i left them from the 22e,

 

the story on the motor is that it is a craiglist special, it had 170-180 compression all the way around, the motor doesnt seem to turn over any faster than it should. 

 

it does have spark

it does have fuel, i though maybe the fuel lines on the 22 were blocked or something till i took out out the injectors and there was fuel in the tubes when i removed the injectors, i actually just put the injectors out of the 25d on the 22 fuel rail thinking before i knew about the fuel in the rail. 

 

my theory is that the timing tensioner is the culprit, allowing the timing to be off a few teeth. when people change the timing belt do you change both the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly as well? or just the tensioner? the reason i ask is that most of the timing belt kits i look at only include the tensioner and not the hydraulic assembly. 

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Hi,

I swear I'm NOT ESL, but i don't comprehend this: "change both the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly as well"

 

In the pics I posted what parts did you change? And BTW, you CAN use your EJ25D assembly (I would if it's new-ish), just remove that whole bracket as shown in the pic. It'll bolt onto your 2.2.

 

TD

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i didnt use the tensioner or the assembly on the 22 that would have come from the 25. the 25d assembly doesnt look as if it will bolt up due to there not being the 3rd bolt on the driver side of the tab where it bolts to the driver side head under the inner timing belt cover

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I had that happen after doing a 2.2 swap in a 97 Outback. It skipped a few teeth on it's first test drive. Found the tensioner was weak so I swapped that bracket and a 99 style tensioner, reset the timing and was good to go.

 

That's probably your best bet if you suspect the tensioner. You already have the parts off the 2.5 motor. A few extra bolts and you should be back in business.

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i have the car baclk and it does run, poorly but it runs, i get codes p0431, 0403, and 0341, which seem to be either a cam crank sensor sync is off some and the egr, the egr doesnt really bother me too much, i replaced the hydrauklic tensioner portion, the tensioner pulley is the last none new thing on the timing portion, would the pulley its self cause the timing to keep jumping after the timing has been reset?

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