DaBrizat Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 So I had my BRAT in a storage unit this winter and some time after new year I took out the battery to put in my garage with battery tender. When I went to put the battery back in and start it up I got no click or crank. The dome light worked and dash lights, but no crank. So since I don't have a multi-meter I took the battery to the parts shop and they tested it and it tested okay but at last 1/4 of life, but I got a new battery anyway and when I tried that, it was the same thing. I expected that I probably didn't have to get a new battery, but I thought it might help get it started so worth it. But no. Wasted money on new batty and still no start. And I have to have it out of the storage place my the end of the month. Any suggestions? Could I have blown a starter fuse or something? Any help would be welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 check the fusible links for integrity in the plastic box along from positive lead. If the power leads are the type that the battery terminal clamps clamp down on the lead, check it for hard to see corrosion, rough it up a bit with file, sand paper etc, bit of spray lube or something. Check the earth for same. Rodents in storage too ?Tap starter with solid tool while turning over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBrizat Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 check the fusible links for integrity in the plastic box along from positive lead. If the power leads are the type that the battery terminal clamps clamp down on the lead, check it for hard to see corrosion, rough it up a bit with file, sand paper etc, bit of spray lube or something. Check the earth for same. Rodents in storage too ?Tap starter with solid tool while turning over? Wondered about the fusible links, having read it in my manual, but wasn't sure what exactly I was looking for. I'll have to figure that out. I'll check the clamps more closely. They seem clean enough. And I'll take a friend along next time to tap the starter. As far as rodents, that's a possibility, but I've not seen evidence yet. I did puta bunch of store bought rodent repellant in the car, under the car, and in the unit. So I'm hoping that wasn't an issue. Something makes me suspect the usable link. There was a decent sized spark when I first attached the positive lead the first time, and not again the other times. I wondered if I'd fried SOMEthing. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll investigate and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 I doubt it was the fusible link unless you hooked the battery up backwards or tried to jump start it backwards. What you most likely have is fretting corrosion on the starter solenoid contacts from sitting. Smack the solenoid with a small hammer or prybar while someone tries to start it. If that doesn't work, use a large screwdriver to jumper the positive cable at the starter to the power cable into the starter at the solenoid. Jumper it across the two biggest terminals. Unless the starter motor is bad, this will start it so you can at least get it out of there. UNLESS.... You have a bad ground or battery cable(s) end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBrizat Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Okay. I'll check that too. Would any of these problems rise up over the winter, without ever being a problem before? It's always been a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Try hitting your terminals. Mine does this, and that normally fixes her Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBrizat Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 (edited) Update: It turned out it was the Fusible Link(s), and that I did put the battery in backward (I'm embarrassed to say). I had it towed to shop to find that out. But on the positive side, I may have found a good mechanic - which is always good. And they're looking at fixing the AC system, and converting it to the new coolant - whatever that stuff is called. Now I'm thinking about having some paint / body work done. It was hit in driver rear quarter panel and resprayed with single stage paint - and of course it doesn't match. So I want to check into getting that repainted with 2-stage paint. The car is very rust free, but has some dings and dents. But I like that it's still original, so I don't think I want to have the body restored. I will leave the bed and other parts as is - patina I'll call it. EDIT: the real purpose of this post was to tell you all that the mechanic said that he found that there were less than 10 of those fusible links available in the continental USA. Certainly that means NOS or equivalent. But it tells me that we should be recycling those things when our old cars die. I'm sure they could make a work-around, but it's worth noting that they are a part worth saving. Edited May 3, 2015 by DaBrizat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Those funible links arent real amazing. They can easilly be reproduced with correct lenths of fusible link wire and a couple of the big female spade terminals. iIRC the fusible wire is just a specific gauge wire that is not supposed to create a fire when it metls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 I wouldn't convert to the new coolant. Older Subies tend to seep and spring leaks if you don't stay on top of them. If enough air enters the system over a period of time, the orange coolant will slowly turn to mud. Granted I haven't seen this happen in some time, but we used to call it Mississippi mud when we'd flush a cooling system this happened to. There really isn't much of a benefit in changing on the older cars. Use distilled water with your green coolant and you're fine. Don't feel too bad about the battery. Hell, I did it to my daughters XT. lol Those fusible links can be replaced with the correctly rated, tall, square GM Mega-fuses used in trucks from like 05-10. They slide right in. So, there's your current replacement option. Glad you got her running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBrizat Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 ^ I may have mislead you by saying coolant vs refridgerant. It's the AC system that's being looked into. You're talking about Miss Mud in the radiator right? When I asked the mechanic to check the AC, which has never worked since I got the BRAT in 2001, he said they essentially have to convert it or use modern refridgerant if they're looking for leaks and whatnot. They can't let the old stuff discharge into the atmosphere. Anyway they're just checking into it. Who knows what they'll find. Working AC is not critical for me with that car cuz it's a fair weather toy only, so open windows are not a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Ok. Yes, upgrade to the new refrigerant it's cheaper anyway by a lot. Oh, and it's illegal to vent ANY R-type refrigerant into the atmosphere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBrizat Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Picked it up tonight after work and im stoked. Working AC for first time since I've had the thing. It was muggy here today so it was nice to have. The compressor in my daily driver siezed last winter so it's nice to have some cool air. Geez I love my BRAT. And now Im really into it again. I got a Miata a few years back so the BRAT has not been the toy of choice since I took to sports car driving, but i have renewed interest in it. Gonna start cleaning it up for cars and coffee and cruise nights. (not done with Miata either) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) yeah the Miata MX5 in Australia is a great Toy we even had a turbo one here where the factory distributor used 323 Turbo parts to make a factory conversion something Rod Millen has no doubt done plenty of after all a great chassis in search of more power but like the Brat a car with a long history and both well worth keeping. Had a customer with an MX5 did club race days all it's life and in 520,000 Km it took normal stuff plus one clutch and the usual Timing belts nothing else awesome reliable toy considering it regularily got raced. Edited May 5, 2015 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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