sull Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 So a few weeks ago my 93 Loyale started running bad with hesitations and lack of power. Cleaning the MAF cured it for about a week. The weather turned cold here in NY again and I am noticing the symptoms have returned, but not as bad as before. Cleaned MAF again and it was better for most of the day but not a full fix. I'm going to continue looking into this but does this temp improvement when cleaning MAF point to anything? Thanks, sull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Are you using MAF Cleaner, or another chemical? Carb cleaner is Not good idea for the MAF... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Yeah it's specifically MAF cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Well... ... running bad with hesitations and lack of power... ...those symptoms could be explained by other causes, not only the MAF. How old are the Sparkplugs and the Air / Fuel Filters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 MAF cleaner is only ever a temporary fix. The hot wires in your MAF are going bye-bye. IE: They're getting weak and can't heat as well anymore. Any crud on them makes it worse and so does a big ambient temp drop. The wires heat to a specific point and at that point, they have a specific resistance. Incoming air causes them to cool and the resistance changes. This is how the ECU reads the airflow. Crud burned onto the surface changes their ability to react to the incoming air and skews the reading which in turn screws up your AF mixture because the ECU is getting erroneous information and basing calculations off of the bad data. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Well... ...those symptoms could be explained by other causes, not only the MAF. How old are the Sparkplugs and the Air / Fuel Filters? Plugs and dist etc about a year old. I think same for filters. I know it could be a variety of things and will go down the path to fixing this but I was just thinking that its still MAF related because of how it resolves temporarily after cleaning so either it needs to be replaced, not just cleaned, or other issues that are mucking up the sensor. The throttle body had more oil than I expected but still might be normal amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) skishop69, on 23 Apr 2015 - 21:58, said: MAF cleaner is only ever a temporary fix. The hot wires in your MAF are going bye-bye. Yeah I bet you're right. Tempted to just replace before spending too much time on other usual suspects. I just bought a cheapo reman unit on ebay ($30) before I spend the big bucks ($150+). Edited April 25, 2015 by sull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-tombba- Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 It could also be a faulty coolant temperature sensor which is located on the intake manifold (It's on the water bypass tube right side of the engine). That seems to be one usual part to fail in these. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 It could also be a faulty coolant temperature sensor which is located on the intake manifold (It's on the water bypass tube right side of the engine). That seems to be one usual part to fail in these. I would normally agree, but since engines with a faulty temp sensor tend to run better when it's cold out, I don't think so. And by better, I mean less crappy than when it's warm. Generally, when the temp sensor dies, the computer thinks it's -30 F so it starts dumping fuel in. In cold temps, you get a denser air charge meaning same volume, but more O2 molecules which allows the excess fuel being added to burn more completely. With warm or hot air, the charge is less dense, less O2. That's why an engine tend to start and run ok when it's cold until it warms up, then run like crapola. lol Don't get me wrong, the engine is going to run like crap with a bad temp sensor, but there are varying degrees based on ambient temps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Today I went to junk yard and grabbed the only MAF Sensor that they had. The reman'd one I bought shipped today so i'll have 2. But I already have a huge difference with the one I got today. I cleaned it, installed it and with a reset puter, test drive was very good. Then I went and bought a performance air filter for like $50 and I decided to do a seafoam spray. I got my subie back! ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 If you bought a 'performance' air filter that requires oiling, DO IT VERY LIGHTLY or you will ruin your MAF when the oil gets sucked through and hits the hot wires. Glad you got her back! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 If you bought a 'performance' air filter that requires oiling, DO IT VERY LIGHTLY or you will ruin your MAF when the oil gets sucked through and hits the hot wires. Glad you got her back! Thanks for the tip. Yeah its one of those cotton based filters. Figured WTH, they didnt have cheaper filters that fit in stock so I just bought the "lifetime" performance one. Trying to keep thr subie happy. I actually can tell a difference with the air flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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