mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) Hello everyone! I would like some help from the members here. I was in progress of swaping carburetor and was about to put the adapter plate for the weber carburetor. But four original bolts mounted on manifold would't just come out... Is there any easy ways to get them out? Any recommendations?? Thanks! Edited April 24, 2015 by mojoinacoma Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicypeanut Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Go get yourself a can of PB Blaster. Spray it on the threads and let it soak over night. Then come back in the morning and give those stubborn bolts a try. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-Penetrating-Catalyst-Lubricant-16PB-THD/202597469 It has never failed me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junk250 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) A soak with a good lube is good, but heat is the only thing to release stuck bolts in aluminum . Heat the cylinder head around the bolt,(but don't heat the bolt) with a propane torch then try, usually works. The heat expands the aluninum and frees stuck bolts, otherwise you will be trying to drill out broken bolts. Steel bolts will seize up in aluminum, the only way out is heat. Heat the aluminum not the steel bolt, i've done it 100's of times on VW heads and blocks. Ratchet a steel bolt out of alunimum without heat and you will have a broken bolt stuck in a head or whatever, use some heat before breaking it, problem solved. Edited April 24, 2015 by junk250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 If the studs are not actually stuck the simplest way to remove them is by treading two nuts onto the stud, tighten the nuts together so they are 'locked' and then with a wrench use the locked together nuts to unscrew the stud. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lvsarge Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I agree with everyone in this thread. I would throw some lock nuts on it, heat the metal around the stud, throw some pb blaster on it and work it back and forth until it comes out smoothly. Steel galls in Aluminum and if you're not careful you will be helicoiling the bolt/stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) Thanks everyone. The problem is solved! But now I got more questions to ask. Let me introduce my car first though. It's 76 subaru dl 1600 Edited April 24, 2015 by mojoinacoma 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Here comes the questions. I put the weber carb on my subaru but not really sure what to do with all the lines because I'm really new to these DIY car fix. First of all, what do i do with the air intake hose? It was connected to air cleaner before but since i ditched the big blue air cleaner I'm not sure where to connect to air intake hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Second question. My manual says they are crankcase vantilation hoses and these were also hooked on to the old air cleaner. But weber kit came with only one pipe that is comming from the air filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Third question. It's similar to the second question. Where should I hook up the air suction hose? It was also connected to old air cleaner but like I mentioned there's only one pipe on weber air filter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Also I have another line next to fuel line which was also connected to air cleaner and i don't know what to do with.. The line comes all the way from the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) I have these three lines comming from the frot if manifold and not sure which one goes to carburetor and which one should be vacuum capped. I have these three lines comming from the frot if manifold and not sure which one goes to carburetor and which one should be vacuum capped. Edited April 24, 2015 by mojoinacoma Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 This part was connected to thediaphragms from hitachi carb and I'm also not sure what to do with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Finall two questions!! I not sure waht to do with the anti dieseling thing. It seems like there's no part for it on weber carburetor. And what do I do with the cable that was originally connected to thermosatat cover on old hitach carb? Help!!!! Thank you everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Thanks everyone. The problem is solved! But now I got more questions to ask. Let me introduce my car first though. It's 76 subaru dl 1600thats a really cool wagon you got there, i have alittle rust on the passenger side :/ sorry im not much help lol just complimenting on your subie. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkbonk Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) I am completely new to the Subaru scene, but I can set you up with all the info you seek. I'm taking these forums by storm! The valve cover hoses/air cleaner system: Weber throttle spring: The anti-diesel solenoid isn't used on the Weber. Make sure that your initial idle speed isn't too high and that your idle mixture is spot on to avoid dieseling. On my EA71 with Weber, the previous owner plugged the three-nipple vacuum switch/solenoid and every other vac port. The EGR is unhooked also. The only vacuum hose being used is the one for the vacuum advance for the distributor. Not saying that this particular setup is correct, but my Subaru runs pretty spot great with all those vacs eliminated. EDiT: I think I read somewhere on here that the vacuum line (the one that comes from beside the fuel line) is a vent for the fuel tank? I recall someone saying that it's okay to leave it open, and to put a filter on it to keep it from getting clogged with debris. The old wires from the Hitachi are eliminated. The only wire you'd need for the Weber is a switched positive for the choke. The PO of my car didn't have the choke hooked up, and it runs pretty decent cold. Something is askew with my linkage, as I can only get like a 1/4 of a choke with the air plates. There's a stop on the brass linkage that prevents mine from going any further. So with that, I figured I would leave the choke plates wide open so as to not affect performance once at operating temp. If you were to run a choke, look for an electric solenoid as a power source to splice into. They are usually powered with the ignition switch. The PO is running my fuel pump off of such a wire. EDiT: And that big foil looking hose coming from beneath your engine (runs from your exhaust, your second picture post) is the preheat to your carburetor. You likely do not need it. If you were to use it, you would have to make a custom filter box for your new Weber. The easiest solution would be to take the new Weber lower filter plate and slap it on your old filter housing. Trace the new weber opening onto your old air cleaner, cut it out and put it on your Weber. Then you can hook all your old hoses back in their original locations. Edited April 25, 2015 by monkbonk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicypeanut Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Here comes the questions. I put the weber carb on my subaru but not really sure what to do with all the lines because I'm really new to these DIY car fix. First of all, what do i do with the air intake hose? It was connected to air cleaner before but since i ditched the big blue air cleaner I'm not sure where to connect to air intake hose. I'm not sure exactly what this one is. Mine did not have this. It doesn't look like the line is factory, maybe it was a "cold air intake" hose? Second question. My manual says they are crankcase vantilation hoses and these were also hooked on to the old air cleaner. But weber kit came with only one pipe that is comming from the air filter. You can just "T" the driver and passenger sides together and connect the 1 into the weber plate. What I did originally was I drilled a few more holes in the weber plate and just connected them as if they belonged there. Third question. It's similar to the second question. Where should I hook up the air suction hose? It was also connected to old air cleaner but like I mentioned there's only one pipe on weber air filter... This sort of goes with my last answer. Just add another hole in the weber plate and hook it up. That way it stays as functional as it can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 I'm not sure exactly what this one is. Mine did not have this. It doesn't look like the line is factory, maybe it was a "cold air intake" hose? You can just "T" the driver and passenger sides together and connect the 1 into the weber plate. What I did originally was I drilled a few more holes in the weber plate and just connected them as if they belonged there. This sort of goes with my last answer. Just add another hole in the weber plate and hook it up. That way it stays as functional as it can. Yes I think it is cold air intake hose. I changed the original hose because it was getting ripped apart. Thanks to monkbonk and spicypeanut for help. Now I know what to do with the hoses that were originally connected to the air cleaner. I'm gonna connect the two vent hoses and connect to filter on weber. I'm just gonna hook another individual small pod filter to the air suction hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoinacoma Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 But the question still remains. I'm not sure what to do with the lines that was originally connected to the diaphragms. And I still don't know which ones to cap and which one to connect to the carburetor among the three lines from the front of manifold... pleas help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkbonk Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Cap all of them and see what happens. Just about all of mine are capped. What isn't is just left open. The only vacuum line that should remain is the one from the distributor's advance port to the vac port on the carburetor body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lvsarge Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Beautiful wagon man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Also I have another line next to fuel line which was also connected to air cleaner and i don't know what to do with.. The line comes all the way from the back. That line is part of the emissions system. I runs from the small expansion tank fitted at the rear of the wagon to catch fumes from the fuel tank. It is then feed back to the carb to be 'recycled'. Basically it prevents fuel vapour or fumes being released into the atmosphere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiclipse95 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Beautiful car! I'm ordering a Weber soon for my 79 Brat. This thread was helpful, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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