comatosellama Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 (edited) Just got my weber today and installed it. Well, kinda. I have the fuel in connected, and that's all. 1. Which out of these vales are my pcv, and can I plug the other? pic 2. What out of these tubes do I need? No egr or asv pic 3. What do I connect to this outlet and where do I get my electric choke wire from? pic Edit- BB code Edited April 28, 2015 by comatosellama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerandt Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I just used this write-up. Answers everythng. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ Great write-up. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 I just used this write-up. Answers everythng. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ Great write-up. I've been using it, but its ea82, I'm 81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) Comatosellama, I just did this swap... Weber DGEV 32/36 From digging around on the boards and my own understanding; things that will need to be connected... Fuel Line In from Firewall to Carb. Vacuum Line from Carb to Distributor. Vacuum Line from Intake Filter to Passenger Side Valve Cover OR one of them silly looking filters you can connect direct to the Valve Cover. Vacuum Line from Driver Side Valve Cover to PCV with a T in the line and a smaller (Original Diameter) line running up to the Intake Filter.The T in the line is important as it stops the PCV from sucking oil up through the Driver Side Valve Cover. From my understanding this side is important because it pulls the bad gasses out of the motor via the PCV. Throttle Cable to Throttle Cable Linkage on the Carb. And the power cable running to the electric choke on the Carb. I ended up buying the extra kit for the throttle cable bracket - this makes mounting the throttle cable a breeze instead of fiddling with a bunch of crap. http://www.jameng.com/products/Universal-DGV-cable-linkage..html I ended up buying a EGR Delete kit from Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Delete-Block-Off-Subaru-SVX-XT-Loyale-Brat-1600-1800-TBIM-/151393859173?hash=item233fc6f665&vxp=mtr I removed everything else and capped off anything that was left open minus the Fuel Tank Breather line that is next to the Fuel Feed Line on the firewall. I do have a few other things to clean up and modify; running heater hose temporarily for the PCV system but need to order some nicer and correct hoses for that system. I also want to add a few in line filters to the Fuel Feed Line and the Fuel Tank Breather Line. Hope that helps some. Edited April 30, 2015 by thornleyjacob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Comatosellama, I just did this swap... Weber DGEV 32/36 From digging around on the boards and my own understanding; things that will need to be connected... Fuel Line In from Firewall to Carb. Vacuum Line from Carb to Distributor. Vacuum Line from Intake Filter to Passenger Side Valve Cover OR one of them silly looking filters you can connect direct to the Valve Cover. Vacuum Line from Driver Side Valve Cover to PCV with a T in the line and a smaller (Original Diameter) line running up to the Intake Filter.The T in the line is important as it stops the PCV from sucking oil up through the Driver Side Valve Cover. From my understanding this side is important because it pulls the bad gasses out of the motor via the PCV. Throttle Cable to Throttle Cable Linkage on the Carb. And the power cable running to the electric choke on the Carb. I ended up buying the extra kit for the throttle cable bracket - this makes mounting the throttle cable a breeze instead of fiddling with a bunch of crap. http://www.jameng.com/products/Universal-DGV-cable-linkage..html I ended up buying a EGR Delete kit from Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Delete-Block-Off-Subaru-SVX-XT-Loyale-Brat-1600-1800-TBIM-/151393859173?hash=item233fc6f665&vxp=mtr I removed everything else and capped off anything that was left open minus the Fuel Tank Breather line that is next to the Fuel Feed Line on the firewall. I do have a few other things to clean up and modify; running heater hose temporarily for the PCV system but need to order some nicer and correct hoses for that system. I also want to add a few in line filters to the Fuel Feed Line and the Fuel Tank Breather Line. Hope that helps some. IS the vac line to the disty what comes off the front of the carb? And where's the choke wire? Is it in those wires connected to the oil sender? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Number 3 goes to the distributor. Electric Choke needs 12v when the engine is on and none when it is off (don't want it draining the battery). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Number 3 goes to the distributor. Electric Choke needs 12v when the engine is on and none when it is off (don't want it draining the battery). It can judge whether it needs to be choked or not by itself? Sweet. I thought I had to dig through the harness to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 You need to make the choke wire... I would suggest getting some nice spayed that fit the connector end on the electric choke. I tried hooking mine in via the wires that the old hitachi used; but those are not providing proper voltage... I am looking to make a whole new wire and go directly to the positive side on the coil... that is what someone told me and checking with a voltage meter it seems correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 It is just a spring... when it is cold it closes when it warms up from the charge it opens up and if it is already warm outside it will stay open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Basically - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimetallic_strip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 And is the tank breather the second tube that comes off of the fork right before the top of the fuel filter at the firewall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Sorry had life come up... The line from the firewall going to the vapor separator (fuel filter) is the fuel feed line - you CAN bypass that filter and plumb it straight from the firewall to your carburetor (this was told to me by GD on the forums here, someone who seems exceedingly knowledgeable and someone you can trust). The line that runs from the top of vapor separator and down to the firewall, next to the side of the brake booster, is the return line... this fuel line can all be removed and then cap the end off on the firewall. Then there is another line that runs right next to the fuel feed line, out of the firewall, that is your Fuel Tank Breather line... this normally runs down and to the charcoal canister behind your driver side headlights (big black plastic cylinder thing). You can remove the charcoal canister and bring that line back to the firewall; most people put a filter on the end to ensure dirt and water does not run down the line. Keep the end of on the line as high as you can in the engine compartment. Again these are things that have been told to me on this forum or I have read up on elsewhere online. I've been running for about 3 weeks this way now and all seems fine; actually engine is running really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Also what did you do with your ASV pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Removed everything related to them. PO had welded directly to it, and I needed a new exhaust. Apparently an ea82 header fits, should be here in 12 hrs. At this point all my engine bay has is the lines that used to be held together by that bracket on the drivers side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I thought I read that someone tried to do that bolt up and it didn't work for some reason. I did the quarter method; use a pipe cutter, or hacksaw, and cut the ends of the ASV's down to about the length of the fastener (end that attaches to the spacer between the head and headers). Then drop a quarter into the holes and bolt the remaining pipe down (You need the pipe as the end flanges and puts pressure on the quarter) and that will close off the opening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I couldn't do that, no salvaging the cast peices, one was welded to and just bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 That sucks - I hope you won't have issues bolting up. Worst off you will need to get some spacers made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Sadly everyone around me is stupidly overpriced for stuff like that disadvantages of living in a college town Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratastick Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Removed everything related to them. PO had welded directly to it, and I needed a new exhaust. Apparently an ea82 header fits, should be here in 12 hrs. At this point all my engine bay has is the lines that used to be held together by that bracket on the drivers side. Where did you find a header to fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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