98 Impreza EJ22E in Porsche 914, looking for upgrades

[starfoxACEFOX]

You know when you walk into first day of class, today is that day.

 

I just got my paws wet with my first Subaru which I'm using for engine swap because Porshce 914 engine, cost way to much $$$$ to do anything with. So I pick up this 98 Impreza Outback Sport, from friend that got in wreck with it. He was really hurting for money, so I pay for his down payment for new car in return for his old one. Which what I needed for my 914, engine is EJ22E with 162k on it. Seem to run fine, but I'm ready to buy all my parts to do seal/gasket overhall and timing/water pump. While I've spent last week looking at upgrade choices.. I got way lost, because I'm so use to only one choice. Porsche OEM, nothing else.

 

Things I was looking to do was better oil/water pump, oil cooler add on, and maybe rebuild heads from other engine type if gain in power are significant. I will be messing with ECU after the build, so not to worry with that right now. Goal not to make mess load power, that mean no turbo because I am dealing with car that was built for air cooled engine. So my cooling choices are limited and my thermal envelope is small, but I would like to get as much as I can with stock mods or low/mid cost upgrades. Reliability also factor, so parts that can give longer services life is welcomed. I also need slim down oil pan, seeing large pan on EJ22 will get damage on 914 engine mount height.

 

So any parts numbers, links to websites for parts and data or things to look out for would be very helpful and greatlly appreciated, if build gose well. Might go after BRZ for my next new car.

 

Foxler

 

 

[Rooster2]

If you do a google search, using the words "porsche 914, subaru swap," you will find several websites discussing this subject. I suspect you may have already been there, but worth mentioning to you if you haven't done this. Good luck on your project.

[starfoxACEFOX]

If you do a google search, using the words "porsche 914, subaru swap," you will find several websites discussing this subject. I suspect you may have already been there, but worth mentioning to you if you haven't done this. Good luck on your project.

 

I've already done my home work on that, but I'm talking about engine it's self. Non of those site cover upgrades or changes, just oil pan. You could say I'm looking for your guys favorite place buy parts and get information.

 

Like if I'm shopping for OEM parts for Porsche I head to PelicanParts or Paragon Products. If i'm looking for custom upgrades for Porsche I head down to Lindsey Racing, same gose for Land Rover you got Atlantic British and GBR Utah. I would think seeing it Subaru. I should have more choices and larger selection for the engine. I would think you guys got key people you go to, like for myself I got Disco Mike for anything Land Rover and Ian with 944online that know everything you could want with 944s or 928 in parts or repair.

 

So really here to learn and understand everything I can about Surban engine, what real and what not.

 

Thanks

 

 

[Fairtax4me]

Parts for Subarus, really depends on what parts you need where you go to get them.

Some parts are dealer only, but things like water pump and timing kits can be purchased aftermarket for less. You can get cheap kits on eBay that are great for the 60k timing interval.

If you want dealer quality for about 1/2 the price there are plenty of options as well.

Mitsuboshi timing belt, NSK, NTN and/or Koyo idler bearings, and an Aisin water pump. TheImportExperts.com carries all of those.

 

The only thing performance wise you'll be able to do with that engine is install a set of cams. Delta camshaft does regrinds on stock cams to produce several different power curves. Its a noticable boost in power for only about $250.

 

Other than that, more performance is going to require more displacement. A 2.5 block with the 2.2 heads makes for a good high compression setup with lots of bottom end power.

 

An oil cooler is not really necessary on that engine. The ground clearance issue rules out using a factory cooler that attaches between the filter and block because it moves the oil filter down almost as low as the bottom of the oil pan. A remote oil filter setup could be used but it really isn't necessary. These engines just don't make that much heat.

[lstevens76]

I was going to mention the 2.5 Block option.  You'll want to do the Timing belt, water pump, and idlers (idlers need to be replaced).  Your going to have it out so I would reseal the motor (new exterior gaskets).  Are you swapping over the AC Compressor and power steering pumps?  

[1 Lucky Texan]

lighter flywheel, lightweight crank pulley .

[starfoxACEFOX]

Parts for Subarus, really depends on what parts you need where you go to get them.

Some parts are dealer only, but things like water pump and timing kits can be purchased aftermarket for less. You can get cheap kits on eBay that are great for the 60k timing interval.

If you want dealer quality for about 1/2 the price there are plenty of options as well.

Mitsuboshi timing belt, NSK, NTN and/or Koyo idler bearings, and an Aisin water pump. TheImportExperts.com carries all of those.

 

The only thing performance wise you'll be able to do with that engine is install a set of cams. Delta camshaft does regrinds on stock cams to produce several different power curves. Its a noticable boost in power for only about $250.

 

Other than that, more performance is going to require more displacement. A 2.5 block with the 2.2 heads makes for a good high compression setup with lots of bottom end power.

 

An oil cooler is not really necessary on that engine. The ground clearance issue rules out using a factory cooler that attaches between the filter and block because it moves the oil filter down almost as low as the bottom of the oil pan. A remote oil filter setup could be used but it really isn't necessary. These engines just don't make that much heat.

 

Those are some really good point, from sound of it. Engine almost as good as it's going to get, but I like the idea of the cams. Never had to deal with that before seeing few to none in Porsche world. Last time I checked I could get set of for my 944S2 for $2300, would take 2 months to get and have to be built from ground up which my gain of 15HP for 2300$ I'm good lol 

 

Side of me being use to over priced parts, I did read lot about single port vs dual port heads. I would think dual port would be better. Then people were throwing out valve size is larger on phase 2. Which I do have single port, better up upgrade or leave it be?

 

Thank you for pointing out few brands look out for and companies to go to. Even if I don't change anything 137hp way better than 84hp from VW Type 4 engine. I'm trying to push for 160hp and 150 ft lbs, somewere in that ball park.

 

 

I was going to mention the 2.5 Block option.  You'll want to do the Timing belt, water pump, and idlers (idlers need to be replaced).  Your going to have it out so I would reseal the motor (new exterior gaskets).  Are you swapping over the AC Compressor and power steering pumps?  

 

There no power streeling on 914, so no and I could add AC to 914, but might take to much work. Good chance that will be left out as well. spoob having heater good start in that car, you get heat from headers on the 914. Kill yourself when there a leak just like some cars during turn of the 20th century were they used exhaust fumes to heat the car.

[starfoxACEFOX]

lighter flywheel, lightweight crank pulley .

 

Got link for crank pulley? Can't change flywheel for 914 swap, kit as specially made one so it can mate with 914 trans. Do mind 914 is 800 pounds less than car that engine came out of.

Edited April 28, 2015 by starfoxACEFOX

[1 Lucky Texan]

I got a Perrin but, I'm not certain if the same one works for a 2.2 .

 

Cobb and Grimmspeed and likely others are around - I think they will work on the 2.2 but an email would be a good idea to confirm.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perrin-Lightweight-Crank-Pulley-Black-Subaru-EJ25-EJ20-/251575042661?hash=item3a930a8265&vxp=mtr

[AdventureSubaru]

As the EJ22 is one of the most reliable motors Subaru made, unless you have cause for concern, there's not much need for headgaskets etc. as they can easily last 300k. 2.5 motors were another story, but you've got a great motor there.

 

All of the larger performance modifications like 2.5 block high compression motor etc. will lesson your reliability some.

 

My opinion - go over it thoroughly looking for any leaks. Replace valve cover gaskets etc. if necessary. Do timing belt & components with water pump. (I'm a big fan of the gates kits on Amazon but other good options have been listed) Don't mess with the oil pump if it's not leaking. Ditto to the rear main seal.

 

Look behind the flywheel/flexplate for the oil seperator plate. if it hasn't yet been replaced with a stainless steel upgrade one, replace the plastic one with the upgraded version. Bout $30 from Subaru and fixes the inevitable oil leaks from it. New NGK spark plugs and wires are also a good routine/tune up idea to get peak performance.

 

Install and drive. There really isn't a whole lot to maintaining a healthy EJ22. If treated well this is a 300,000+ mile motor so head gaskets etc. are a little redundant at 162k unless you think it was overheated.

 

As mentioned, this motor in stock form is a large power upgrade. it will deliver plenty of power moving a little 914 around.

Edited April 28, 2015 by AdventureSubaru

[starfoxACEFOX]

As the EJ22 is one of the most reliable motors Subaru made, unless you have cause for concern, there's not much need for headgaskets etc. as they can easily last 300k. 2.5 motors were another story, but you've got a great motor there.

 

All of the larger performance modifications like 2.5 block high compression motor etc. will lesson your reliability some.

 

My opinion - go over it thoroughly looking for any leaks. Replace valve cover gaskets etc. if necessary. Do timing belt & components with water pump. (I'm a big fan of the gates kits on Amazon but other good options have been listed) Don't mess with the oil pump if it's not leaking. Ditto to the rear main seal.

 

Look behind the flywheel/flexplate for the oil seperator plate. if it hasn't yet been replaced with a stainless steel upgrade one, replace the plastic one with the upgraded version. Bout $30 from Subaru and fixes the inevitable oil leaks from it. New NGK spark plugs and wires are also a good routine/tune up idea to get peak performance.

 

Install and drive. There really isn't a whole lot to maintaining a healthy EJ22. If treated well this is a 300,000+ mile motor so head gaskets etc. are a little redundant at 162k unless you think it was overheated.

 

As mentioned, this motor in stock form is a large power upgrade. it will deliver plenty of power moving a little 914 around.

 

Sound great, thank for tip on oil seperator plate. 944 got AOS on it and seals on those fail way to much. People always ask "why do I got oil in my intake boot"

 

This might be sin for most people, but I do like my Bosch plugs.. Even Porsche guys bitch at me for it, seem like everyone like NGK choice.

[1 Lucky Texan]

there's something about the impedance in the high voltage side of Soob ignition that makes most of the engines picky about the right combo of plugs and plug wires. many people have deviated from NGK/Denso and regretted it.

 

some other stuff doesn't seem to matter - like cheap knock sensors from ebay.

Edited April 29, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Rooster2]

I have used the Bosch Platinum plugs in both a 2.2 and currently in my 99 Outback 2.5 motor with no issues. I use the Bosch with the single electrode (prong). If you go with Bosch, but don't like the performance, then installing 4 each NGKs is no big deal.

 

What is a big deal is to use high end spark plug wires from Subaru or equivalent. Cheapie wire sets from a chain parts store are a waste of time and money, and won't work well. Been there.........done that.

[Fairtax4me]

Side of me being use to over priced parts, I did read lot about single port vs dual port heads. I would think dual port would be better. Then people were throwing out valve size is larger on phase 2. Which I do have single port, better up upgrade or leave it be?

 

Phase 2 heads flow somewhat better but the difference is moot if you're doing a non-turbo setup. Although You can be right at that 160 mark with a phase 2 2.5.

 

For the 98 2.2, the phase 2 heads won't work without the whole harness and ECU.

Phase 1 and 2 heads have different intake port designs. The intake manifold has to match the heads, and the phase 2 manifolds use a different idle control setup which requires using the ECU and wire harness that matches the manifold.

 

The single port vs dual port thing, again is kinda moot. Unless you're running a turbo there isn't enough difference to make a difference.

[Aluxes]

Hey there, I love this question. I have a 97 2.2 single port heads......with a lot of mods. A lightweight crank pulley, by Grimmspeed. Also by Grimspeed are phenolic spacers 8MM. There is an MSD coil mod, and go with Magnecor plug wires. My opinion is the single port heads are just as good if not better than the dual. Only one cylinder's exhaust valves open at the same time. I have ported mine and dropped in some delta regrind cams. On E-Bay look for a seller called Subie4X4. You can get some great quality Equal length headers for the single port. I have them and it made a huge difference. I run 2.25" exhaust also, all the way back. K&N filter w/ a cold air stock box. A Walboro 255 LPH fuel pump woke it up a bit too. These are just a few thing I have done to my OBS and it would take my 97 Legacy 2.5.

[starfoxACEFOX]

Phase 2 heads flow somewhat better but the difference is moot if you're doing a non-turbo setup. Although You can be right at that 160 mark with a phase 2 2.5.

 

For the 98 2.2, the phase 2 heads won't work without the whole harness and ECU.

Phase 1 and 2 heads have different intake port designs. The intake manifold has to match the heads, and the phase 2 manifolds use a different idle control setup which requires using the ECU and wire harness that matches the manifold.

 

The single port vs dual port thing, again is kinda moot. Unless you're running a turbo there isn't enough difference to make a difference.

 

That could have just codswallop up my whole day if I made that change and not knew that. I was throwing idea of small supercharger kit to be placed were AC use to go, so I make up the power. I have feeling that will take lot of time to map out and engine compresstion very close to my 944S2. Which more likely going to give me more problums than I want, because really suck when you run stright 85 fuel and get pre detonation on hot summer day after you shut off the engine.

 

 

Hey there, I love this question. I have a 97 2.2 single port heads......with a lot of mods. A lightweight crank pulley, by Grimmspeed. Also by Grimspeed are phenolic spacers 8MM. There is an MSD coil mod, and go with Magnecor plug wires. My opinion is the single port heads are just as good if not better than the dual. Only one cylinder's exhaust valves open at the same time. I have ported mine and dropped in some delta regrind cams. On E-Bay look for a seller called Subie4X4. You can get some great quality Equal length headers for the single port. I have them and it made a huge difference. I run 2.25" exhaust also, all the way back. K&N filter w/ a cold air stock box. A Walboro 255 LPH fuel pump woke it up a bit too. These are just a few thing I have done to my OBS and it would take my 97 Legacy 2.5.

 

I got get some custom pipes made for this 914 swap, but exhaust will be catless seeing car is 72's and only have run of 4 feet or less. Also each head will have it's own pipe to the back, I'm using this nice upgrade exhaust I got for old 914 engine. Pipe bit smaller than what coming out of the Ej22 heads, so should have stock or close to stock back pressure. Sometime in July I should have a running 914, so I got post video on it, see how sound with this setup