comatosellama Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Hello there to every one out there talking about my lift. I was only building a six inch lift to begin with. And yes einstien it is considered a ten and a half inch lift when you build 6.5 inch spacers for the top of your 2001 forester struts with kyb gr2S . On iT. And this is my third subaru i have built. Fully on my own without anykind of instructions. All my cars have all driven good. I think most people on here count lift in the height of the lift blocks if you have them. Also fozzy struts shouldn't be 4 inches, like 2-3. Maybe 4 before they settle down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Hello there to every one out there talking about my lift. I was only building a six inch lift to begin with. And yes einstien it is considered a ten and a half inch lift when you build 6.5 inch spacers for the top of your 2001 forester struts with kyb gr2S . On iT. And this is my third subaru i have built. Fully on my own without anykind of instructions. All my cars have all driven good. Well aren't you just all that. No instructions? I don't think anyone here has enjoyed this car/posting. Go over to NASIOC where people might care about ego pumping. This posting gives us nothing here, see we are a community, a family if you will where we all have a name that means something. A place where we all share ideas, thoughts, and a large portion of our lives with our subarus because we are enthusiasts. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Ya know, none of us have a problem with the car. The car is cool. I love lifted OBS's. But when you come on here acting like what you have is some big secret, and not wanting to share info about your ride, it comes off pretty rude and uninviting. It's not a 10.5" lift. If you have 6.5" spacers on top of forester struts, then again, it's not different than what any of the other guys have done to theirs. Forester struts do not give you 4" of lift. Maybe 2.5" at the most. And you don't count tire size as part of the lift either, now maybe if you had said initially that you have 10.5" of clearance, it would have been ok. It's an awesome car, but you didn't re-create the wheel. Improve your attitude and you'd have a better response. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Ya know, none of us have a problem with the car. The car is cool. I love lifted OBS's. But when you come on here acting like what you have is some big secret, and not wanting to share info about your ride, it comes off pretty rude and uninviting. It's not a 10.5" lift. If you have 6.5" spacers on top of forester struts, then again, it's not different than what any of the other guys have done to theirs. Forester struts do not give you 4" of lift. Maybe 2.5" at the most. And you don't count tire size as part of the lift either, now maybe if you had said initially that you have 10.5" of clearance, it would have been ok. It's an awesome car, but you didn't re-create the wheel. Improve your attitude and you'd have a better response. Exactly! The car is very cool. The superiority complex is NOT. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 While we're on topic.... Do you have to angle the strut toppers on these like you do on an ea81? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Ej cars have camber bolts so a lot can be corrected at the knuckle. Not sure where it would max out though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) While we're on topic.... Do you have to angle the strut toppers on these like you do on an ea81? Like AdventureSubaru said, they have camber bolts, so you don't have to on small lifts. It never hurts to, though, and with lifts that push the struts down more than 2ish inches below the subframes/crossmembers, you would probably need to. This would have a fairly small effect on the camber. I don't know what I was thinking here. This primarily affects your CV angles. I can say from my own experience, 1 3/8" of lift with no offset on my Forester was easy enough for the guys at the alignment shop to bring into spec. Edited May 5, 2015 by jmoss5723 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Like AdventureSubaru said, they have camber bolts, so you don't have to on small lifts. It never hurts to, though, and with lifts that push the struts down more than 2ish inches below the subframes/crossmembers, you would probably need to. I can say from my own experience, 1 3/8" of lift with no offset on my Forester was easy enough for the guys at the alignment shop to bring into spec. I'm going for 5 so.... Any idea where I can get good strut toppers? I was thinking scott maybe brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) I'm going for 5 so.... Any idea where I can get good strut toppers? I was thinking scott maybe brian As far as I can tell, a strut topper is a strut topper no matter who makes it, so long as they can weld and measure properly. Anyone's will probably do. Are you planning to fab the subframe drops yourself? If you're handy, I can send you scans of the plates for the top and bottom of the strut toppers and you can just cut some pipe (4.25" diameter in the front, 3.25" in the rear) to the right angle and weld it up. Edit: Keep in mind that I haven't bought and compared all the lifts that different guys are making. Based on pictures and what I've read, they are all the same basic design. I figure that they can't be THAT different. Edited May 5, 2015 by jmoss5723 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Good news on camber/alignment on imprezas in particular. Since lifts are done to clear bigger tires, an LT tire on something as light as an Impreza has a very good tread life. My lifted impreza had noticeably positive camber and after 32,000 miles of being driven that way was just starting to show more wear on the outside than in. They were not name brand tires either. LT (light truck) tires were designed to be run on things that weigh much more than a little impreza. Makes for great durability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 As far as I can tell, a strut topper is a strut topper no matter who makes it, so long as they can weld and measure properly. Anyone's will probably do. Are you planning to fab the subframe drops yourself? If you're handy, I can send you scans of the plates for the top and bottom of the strut toppers and you can just cut some pipe (4.25" diameter in the front, 3.25" in the rear) to the right angle and weld it up. Edit: Keep in mind that I haven't bought and compared all the lifts that different guys are making. Based on pictures and what I've read, they are all the same basic design. I figure that they can't be THAT different. I trust myself to weld up the other bits, which can have the links break (I'm planning on a hassey style lift) and still be safeishkinda. But if the strut toppers break that's bad news. Also, how does one go about cutting a 4.25 inch hole in 1/4 inch steel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 4.25" hole in 1/4" Drill+saw+beers Plasma Cutter Fab shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Drill press, hole saw, lube, and time. (Beer is optional, but recommended) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Drill press, hole saw, lube, and time. (Beer is optional, but recommended) Underage so that'll have to wait, lol. 45 dollars for the 2 hole saws though... Might be worth having someone else do it, especially since I'd never use those again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Is there a machine shop around that you can go to? If you just need a few holes cut, they'll very likely do that for a couple of bucks. I don't know how far underage you are, but if you're still in high school and your school has a metal shop, you could probably ask the teacher do it or let you do it. That's how I got a lot of stuff done when I was younger and lacked certain tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerpel Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Yes i am! Than. You to everyone who likes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Is there a machine shop around that you can go to? If you just need a few holes cut, they'll very likely do that for a couple of bucks. I don't know how far underage you are, but if you're still in high school and your school has a metal shop, you could probably ask the teacher do it or let you do it. That's how I got a lot of stuff done when I was younger and lacked certain tools. No metal shop at my high school. I was thinking machine shop too, was just worried about the price. Do you have the strut topper scans handy? Would be much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 No metal shop at my high school. I was thinking machine shop too, was just worried about the price. Do you have the strut topper scans handy? Would be much appreciated I attached a PDF of the scan. Those are traced from a set of professionally manufactured lift spacers. I used these to make a few sets and they've turned out great each time. Some of the holes are obviously not traced perfectly, but with a tiny bit of measuring to make sure it was right, I had no problems. You could also make them out of cardboard or plywood first to make sure you've got it all right. It's a shame that we live in a world where this stuff has to be explicitly stated, but who knows what wacko might find this in a few years and screw himself up, so here is a quick disclaimer for you or anyone that uses this pattern: This is a guide ONLY. If it does not work out of you and you break your car or your body, I claim no responsibility. Use your brain and if you are not qualified to build a lift, either have someone else do it for you or have a professional inspect your work. New Gen Lift Pattern.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 While we're on topic.... Do you have to angle the strut toppers on these like you do on an ea81?on the 1st and 2nd gen EJ cars I cut the front strut extentions at 10 degrees and the rear at 5 degrees, if you have spare struts you can use the top hat for part of the lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Yes i am! Than. You to everyone who likes! Am I the only one confused by this comment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Am I the only one confused by this comment? He pressed period instead of k. most likely mobile. Meant "Yes I am! Thank you to everyone who likes [the car]!" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 on the 1st and 2nd gen EJ cars I cut the front strut extentions at 10 degrees and the rear at 5 degrees, if you have spare struts you can use the top hat for part of the lift How does that work? use rectangle stock at the top of the actual strut and then bolt the top hat to the top of the stock or...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 How does that work? use rectangle stock at the top of the actual strut and then bolt the top hat to the top of the stock or...? I think Scott means you can use the template that I gave you for the bottom of the strut topper and a stock top hat for the top of the topper and weld a piece of pipe in between. Layered like this from the top down: Unibody spare top hat Steel pipe cut to the right length for your lift height and at the appropriate 10 or 5 degree angle to correct camber Plate steel cut to the shape of the template Strut Correct me if I'm wrong. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 By Drill+saw+beers I meant you drill a hole (or holes) adjacent to and within the inner-diameter of the large hole you want to cut, not a hole-saw. Then you can insert a recip saw blade of some kind in the drilled hole, either jigsaw or sawsall, etc. I would be partial to the jigsaw. Then you just have to be patient and take your time gnawing a hole in 1/4" steel...hence the beer suggestion. It actually won't take that long if you have some good saw blades. Fab shop would be purdier and a lot easier but unnecessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 3/16 steel plate is thicker then stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now