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From what I remember....to get this car higher off the ground I could use the struts and springs out of a 98-2002 forester

 

Can a few of you experienced guys confirm?

I can't stand how low this car is.....and it's worth keeping with 140k and a beautiful body

 

Would I need to have the frt end aligned again if I do the front?

Any special tools or tricks involved?

 

thanks very much :)

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Go look at the How to Lift Your Impreza sticky thread in the offroad section. Its the same for your legacy.

 

Same with the exceptions that for a 95 legacy you don't need to drill a hole to fit rear strut top hats. And that the trailing arm bracket swap on a legacy is optional whereas the impreza runs out of space fast if they aren't swapped over.

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Same with the exceptions that for a 95 legacy you don't need to drill a hole to fit rear strut top hats. And that the trailing arm bracket swap on a legacy is optional whereas the impreza runs out of space fast if they aren't swapped over.

  

This^

Go look at the How to Lift Your Impreza sticky thread in the offroad section. Its the same for your legacy.

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Thanks bratman

 

I want to put some 15" Subaru rims I have.....so you think that will be fine?

Would I use whatever size 15" tire that is recommended on the outback....the 205/70-15?

no fit issues?

Yeah that's be fine. Or if you use a 16" wheel, you can run a 215 60 16.
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Just got done doing this to my 95.  We used the 07 Forester struts, the spacers from a 96 Outback and the A arms from the Outback.   Took it in for alignment today and the front went fine but we will have to take it back for the rear.  The holes for the struts will have to be elongated a bit to get a perfect 4 wheel alignment.  Looks mean as hell in the driveway.

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Jmoss...is this the thread you were talking about?

www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47869-lifting-a-newer-Subaru/

 

that's all I found so far


if there is a different one, can you link me to it?

thanks

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Tools required:

 

Breaker Bar (1/2") at least 21" 

 

1/2" Ratchet

 

12MM Deepwell Socket (1/2" if you are going to the minimal tools, 3/8" if you using optional tools)

 

19MM Socket  (1/2")

 

19MM Wrench

 

17MM Socket (Deepwell is better but my 17mm impact socket did work) (1/2")

 

Either jack in the back of the car or floor jack

 

Jack Stands  (don't be stupid and try with the jack because if it collapses it can cause you serious pain)

 

Flat Blade Screwdriver (for pushing the brake line bracket out if the Legacy has them that way)

 

8mm wrench for bleeding the brakes

 

Phillips Head screwdriver for removing paneling (will need the flat as well)

 

If the legacy is like the  impreza wagon you will also want a 10mm deepwell to remove the speakers.

 

If you only have the struts (no springs) you will need a Strut/Spring compressor which is rentable at most auto parts stores (about $50 to rent)

 

Although you can do it with these few tools I would add these to the list.

 

Optional Equipment:

 

Impact Gun (electric or air - either one will be easier on you and faster)

 

3/8" Ratchet (easier to handle for top strut mount bolts)

 

Decent length punch (makes it easier to get the lower bolts of place)

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  • 1 month later...

I've yet to find a decent set of forester struts to lift my 95 legacy

 

I did read the sticky but have questions:

 

First....someone above mentioned 98-08 struts would fits...true?  Is there any difference in what needs to be done when using 98-02 struts compared to newer 04-08 struts?

I would like the option of using up to 2008 as they would be newer and it gives me a wider search possibility

 

2--I read things about new camber bolts in rear--would I need this/

3--what about trailing arms or trailing arm brackets? different ones needed?

4--spacers? of any kind needed?

5--drilling of may holes required?

 

Not being terribly versed in this I am hoping to unbolt and bolt in different struts and get 2" lift

 

thanks for the advise and the patience

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The biggest difference between the 98-02 and the 03-08 forester struts are the 03-08 has a higher rear sing perch to allow bigger tire fitment. But yes, any 98-08 strut will boot in, no drilling. The trailing arm bracket isn't a must for is talking on a legacy, but it will help recenter the rear wheel. Those would come from a 96-99 outback. Wheel spacers are up to you. You may be able to fit a bigger tire with them, but you'll probably need to do more trimming to get them to fit without rubbing.

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I do know for a fact the 98 is a direct swap, no extra stuff required - did it on my 95 Legacy. as there were very few changes to suspension, i would assume that newer ones would also be a direct swap. The trailing arms are not an absolute necessity - the centering difference is barely noticeable. But yeah, alignment will be a necessity as the added height does throw camber out of whack

 

It does make things easier to fit in if you unbolt the sway bar from the chassis... dont try to undo the link ends, you will probably end up breaking them (plastic)

 

if you cant find a set of decent used ones, buy new components, assemble, and install. I started with a used set, but they turned out to be pretty worn out...back end bounced around like a bucking bronco.

 

gathered all new parts - struts, springs, tophats and related parts, assembled them and swapped in the new stuff in an afternoon. easy peasy. :)

 

 

2--I read things about new camber bolts in rear--would I need this/ - doubtful, but even if you do, you wont know until you take it in for an alignment. The alignment shop will advise on this.


3--what about trailing arms or trailing arm brackets? different ones needed? - not necessary, unless you are OCD about stuff being perfect...

 

4--spacers? of any kind needed? - none needed...


5--drilling of may holes required? - no.

Edited by heartless
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I've yet to find a decent set of forester struts to lift my 95 legacy

it may be easier to find outback struts.

 

but the problem is,

by now, they are all really old.

so you would have to be really lucky to find a parts car with new-ish struts.

 

i would avoid the 98 - 02 forester struts.

i hear they can cause ''saggy butt'' syndrome.

besides the 96 - 99 outback are taller, slightly.

 

the later foresters might be the best choice.

and you can buy new for $300 or so.

 

the 95 lego and the 96 - 99 outbacks use the same springs.

foresters rear springs are different.

Edited by johnceggleston
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Rock auto has some good prices for struts. You can go with used springs/new struts and use the tophats from your car. Monroe, gabriel and KYB are all good brands with KYB being the more expensive but also better reputation of the three. Avoid the cheap stuff. Lots of reported failures within 20,000 miles.

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i would avoid the 98 - 02 forester struts.

i hear they can cause ''saggy butt'' syndrome.

besides the 96 - 99 outback are taller, slightly.

 

I was warned about the "saggy butt" thing when I did the swap, and yeah - with used parts, it did sag a little (the used parts were pretty worn out)

 

When I replaced with new parts, i have no sagging - car sits nice and level. - it may eventually sag a little as things wear out tho. There have been some that used 3/8 inch spacers on top of the tophats (between tophat and car body) to combat the "saggy butt" thing, and if I start to see a bit of sagging, I may go that route...

 

Rockauto is a very good source for parts, and I got some of my stuff there.

I also purchased some parts from partsgeek.com, and the stock springs came from Park Subaru in Akron,Ohio...ordered online (was the only place I could find them at the time. they have since changed thier website - the online store is no longer available :( )

 

I used KYB struts to fit a 98 Forester, KYB tophats (the old tophats needed replacing), and stock 98 Forester springs. I am very happy with the results and love the extra clearance. It is fun to see my car parked next to a newer pickup and see that I actually have more clearance than they do! LOL

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  • 3 months later...

so I have some low mileage struts to lift this thing....

I know it was mentioned about the fact that I did not have to change the trailing arms using 96-99 outback part

 

Check this out....is this the same? rear control arms same as trailing arms?

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/pts/52782768344.html

 

I never heard of adjustable ones

Do  these look correct?

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Most of the adjustable control arms and trailing arms for these are made with steel heim joints which as susceptible to rust and wear and make noise when dirt gets in them. They also ride much rougher than the stock arms.

 

Outback struts fit in just fine with no other parts needed.

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ok

so besides the 4 forester struts that I now have.....what trailing arms do I need? from what vehicle? does OB sedan or wagon matter?

Do I need the trailing arm OR the trailing arm bracket or both?  Do I need the bolts off of it too?

 

anything else?

 

Also.....what do I need to loosen or take apart to get this longer strut into place (front and rear)....I've never replaced one b4

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Don't need anything extra.

Some people replace the front mounting bracket that the trailng arm attaches to, but it's not necessary if you're just doing a strut lift.

 

 

Disconnect the sway bar links so you can push the control arms and knuckle down when attaching the strut to the knuckle.

 

Now is a good time to flush your brake fluid, if it hasn't been done recently.

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