Planning to buy my first Subaru sometime later this year, and i have some questions.

[trainergames]

After i pay off a bill and save up some i want to find a cheap fixer upper Subaru for under $1000. i want look for something that needs a paint job,and some work done,more than what the owner is willing to fix,but something that something that someone like me can fix on my own with enough time a little money.

My plans for the car is i want a car to not only learn how to fix stuff on,but also me less scared to work on my cars,because i get scared to work on my current car that i will break it and be out of my only car,once i've gotten to that point and i have gotten the car drivable and legal it will then be my main car instead of my current problematic honda civic(but still driveable),which i will then try to fix all it's problems. Then i may give my sister the honda because i kinda owe her a car after i hit a curb in the rain in her van and snapped the rear suspension.

I would love to find a 90-99 subaru,would prefer wagon,forester or impreza,but will get a sedan if i can't find a usable wagon,forester or impreza.

Now my car repair history is not great i have replaced a starter and serpentine belt on a 96 Ford Aerostar,strut on a 88 New Yorker,motor mount.helped replace radiator and failed head gasket repair(replaced it and afterwards it was still leaking coolant into the oil,i think the block was shot due to rust in the holes where the water and oil run through the block) on a 97 cavalier with the 2.2L OHV. Also on my current 2000 honda civic i had to remove the muffler before it fell off because it rusted off,will replace myself soon.

Now finally on to the real questions. For someone my skill level,that is willing to put in the time and effort,and learn,what repair should i look out for on the Subaru's? I don't mind hard work,it just has to been something i can do by myself because i don't have any friends that i can ask for help.

What repairs should i completely avoid?

I have fallen in love with Subaru's and i want to be ready when it comes time because i don't want to mess up get a bad one and end up hating it.

 

Thank you guys for the help,and i can't wait to join the family of Subaru owners.

[86 Wonder Wedge]

Well, as carmakers go, cars don't get much easier to work on than Subarus. Most maintenance can be done in the driveway with minimal tools or experience and will run forever if you just keep your fluids in them.

 

I'll be honest, sub-$1K Subarus usually come with more problems than the insurance company will pay you out (in case of a total loss). The generation that is the cheapest is the 2nd gen Legacies with the EJ25D. Most at this age (or price) have overheating issues due to headgaskets which will eventually lead to bearing failure if overheated too badly. Rust is the other major issue, but usually confined to the rear quarters but can get the rear subframes if not careful.

 

If you can find an early Legacy or Impreza with the 2.2 (before 97), those were the best years for stoutness and interchangeability. Almost NEVER see headgasket or bottom end issues and the parts are mostly the same from 90-97 (yes, there are exceptions).

 

Find the cleanest one you can, even if it has drivetrain issues, as they will last as long as the body will.

[Sapper 157]

Cooling system issues are common on these cars. That is what I would look for first. If you really want a nicer 90s soobie with low(er) miles, you're typically looking at around anywhere from $1700-$3000 depending on condition and car.At least that is the common price range in the North-West

[trainergames]

Well, as carmakers go, cars don't get much easier to work on than Subarus. Most maintenance can be done in the driveway with minimal tools or experience and will run forever if you just keep your fluids in them.

 

I'll be honest, sub-$1K Subarus usually come with more problems than the insurance company will pay you out (in case of a total loss). The generation that is the cheapest is the 2nd gen Legacies with the EJ25D. Most at this age (or price) have overheating issues due to headgaskets which will eventually lead to bearing failure if overheated too badly. Rust is the other major issue, but usually confined to the rear quarters but can get the rear subframes if not careful.

 

If you can find an early Legacy or Impreza with the 2.2 (before 97), those were the best years for stoutness and interchangeability. Almost NEVER see headgasket or bottom end issues and the parts are mostly the same from 90-97 (yes, there are exceptions).

 

Find the cleanest one you can, even if it has drivetrain issues, as they will last as long as the body will.

 

I have been think of trying to only go with one that the 2.2(also known as the ej22 right?) rust should not be as big a problem i think,cause i live in texas,but i will check for rust when i do get one.

Here is one on my local craigslist, http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4999400004.html ,should i try to find one like this? I am guessing for oil leaks it depends on where the leak is,to tell if i need to avoid it?

Cooling system issues are common on these cars. That is what I would look for first. If you really want a nicer 90s soobie with low(er) miles, you're typically looking at around anywhere from $1700-$3000 depending on condition and car.At least that is the common price range in the North-West

I will watch out for cooling problems and make sure they did not run it to long while over heated,also i don't have to start with a nicer one,because i want to learn to fix it by buying a fixer upper,where i am for $2500-$3000 you can get a mostly problem free '99 and up,outback or forester.

 

Plus i another reason i want a fixer upper is because if i do all the work,and put in the time and effort to bring her back to life,that i will respect her more.

[mikec03]

The problem with the 99 outback or forester is the ej2.5D engine.  It had/has a nasty habit of leaking coolant into the oil and combustion gas into the coolant and overheating.  I would never buy one and I have own/owned 7 subarus.

 

The above poster mentioned the ej2.2 because it is bullet proof.  You really don't have to worry about the motor bearings being destroyed from overheating.   If you can't find an ej2.2 then your second alternative would be the 00+ subaru.  I have an 02 and aside from the HG repair at 90K, it's has a good maintenance record.  The 00+ engines [ ej251] leak externally so you arn't likely to buy a lemon that has been overheated.  Unfortunately, the HG repair, especially from dealers, are kind of problematic so you never know how long they will last.  On the other hand, repairing the HG [on a subaru] is well within your experience level and there are many DIY on these forums.

Edited May 16, 2015 by mikec03

[lstevens76]

Ok, first thing to realize is a head gasket on these is not like that Cavalier.  To do it right outside of a shop you will need to pull the engine, and a lot of shops will pull the engine to do HG simply because it's easier and more accessible.  

 

Do you have a place to park the car without the engine for a period of 2 weeks?  If your working then the time to do a good head gasket job can take up to two  weeks.

 

Did you mill the head on the cavalier or have a machine shop mill it?  Was it checked for flat with a mechanics straight edge?  I'm asking because these steps are extremely important.

 

Now, the EJ22 is not "Bullet Proof", it just better handles abuse. I know from experience as I'm doing head gaskets on an EJ22 right now.  The machine shop doing the head work has seen this before, and there are various forum posts about it happening.  It just isn't common.   

 

Any sub-$1,000 vehicle your going to get into problems, and I can almost guarantee it won't be just the problems you "SEE".  Once you start driving it your most likely going to find more.

 

1.)  Timing Belt, Water Pump, and Idlers - expect to have to do these.  They aren't very difficult based on your experience.

 

2.)  Struts - if it's over 170k expect to do these as well.  Even when buying a good car from a dealer you could end up with bad struts because many people simply ignore it.

 

3.)  Oil Seperator Plate probably needs resealed, maybe replaced if it's plastic (it's on the back of the engine).

 

4.)  When you do the timing belt expect to do the front camshaft seals and oil pump seal.

 

 

Other things to note are the automatic transmissions are known to fail w/ no reverse.  You would want to check for severe delayed engagement, etc....  I don't know how good your hearing is, but you will also want to listen for differential noise when driving it.  Many people don't even know what this noise is when they here it an ignore it. 

 

I'll give you 4 examples of "sub $1,000" cars I've purchased.

 

First - 2001 Dodge Durango w/ a Bad Computer.  The owner wrote down on the bill of sale that he guaranteed the engine and transmission to be good, but he didn't mention or even know (I asked after I got it running) that the rear pinion bearing was going bad.  It also had bad shocks all the way round, bad front ball joints (all 4), and bad outer tie  rod ends along with a bad rear hvac assembly.  

 

Second - 1996 Dodge Dakota  business owned - turned out to have a bad connector on the coil, but also had bad shocks all the way around again, bad pitman arms, bad motor/transmission mounts, plus it still has an intermittent miss that hasn't been traced down, and the AC doesn't work (although the owner is a family member who lives up in the mountains so he doesn't care) and had bad tires.

 

Third - 1990 Subaru Legacy - Bad TB idler bearing, driver's side window regulator/slider both bad, bad rear struts, bad power mirror switch, clutch was worn and close to needing replaced, bad front bumper cover and bad accident repair - The front clip had been replaced from another car and had been done badly.  It didn't look right, nor could it made to look right, the upper radiator support (also where the hood latches) was not straight, etc...  It did have good tires though.

 

Fourth - 1996 Subaru Impreza OBS - Bad Head Gaskets, Leaking Cam Seals, Leaking Separator plate, no TB Covers, bad idlers, bad power steering pump, bad tires (and wheels were severely beat up), broken antenna, beat up body (Driver's side fender/door will have to be replaced), broken interior trim, etc...

 

What I'm trying to say is to realize what you are getting yourself into with a Sub-$1k car.  It's not going to be any walk in the park and you need to be prepared for anything and everything, regardless of how it may "sound" or "appear" to run when you look at it.

 

And hopefully you enjoy this stuff, because if you don't I wouldn't recommend it.

[trainergames]

I know i head gasket repair on one will be very different that the one i already did.Do you think pulling the engine and changing the head gaskets is something i can do myself?

 

 

I currently live with my sister(who has givin me permission to do this lol),and she has a 2 car garage,which i have to clean in exchange for her letting me do this lol,and yeah i do work a 40 hour a week job.

 

 

I had a machine shop mill the cavalier head,if i remember correctly(it was 3 years ago lol)i think they put a level agianist it to show me it was flat. I think the reason the repair failed is because if you look at this pic, http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KfC2Z57hPa4/hqdefault.jpg ,the block is close to what i was using but i remember on my block the wide hole on the outside edge of the block and the holes in front of them,were all rusty because my mom thought it was a good idea to put in water instead of coolant,i should of known it was a bad block,but i had hope that it was fine because it was kinda my first car(my mom bought it,but i ended up doing 90% of the miles we put on it).

 

 

This is the main reason i was wanting the ej22,because i have heard of people having a lot less problems than the ej25.

 

 

I will plan to replace all of those,along side what ever i am having to replace to fix it.

 

 

I do understand it may be a lot of work,but i don't mind because i getting the car cheap,and i do enjoy this stuff.

[lstevens76]

When doing head gaskets did you mill the block?  I.E. Sand it down a little to get a good clean, flat, mating surface?  

 

Aside from that it sounds like you are prepared for whatever you end up getting into.  

 

For the era you will be looking at the Impreza and Legacy both had a wagon and both had an Outback option starting in '95.  

 

I would head over to cars101.com and read up on the various models available for the years you are interested in and get some more information on what each car has for engines, transmissions, etc...

 

Prior to '97 you could buy a Subaru as an FWD only.  This is something to remember, especially if you want an AWD version.

 

The Subaru engines are a Flat H concept, not an inline 4.  This means each subaru engine has 2 heads (even though it's a four cylinder) and it lays flat so the heads point at the side of the car, not upright or angled like an inline or v engine.

[trainergames]

When doing head gaskets did you mill the block?  I.E. Sand it down a little to get a good clean, flat, mating surface?  

 

Aside from that it sounds like you are prepared for whatever you end up getting into.  

 

For the era you will be looking at the Impreza and Legacy both had a wagon and both had an Outback option starting in '95.  

 

I would head over to cars101.com and read up on the various models available for the years you are interested in and get some more information on what each car has for engines, transmissions, etc...

 

Prior to '97 you could buy a Subaru as an FWD only.  This is something to remember, especially if you want an AWD version.

 

The Subaru engines are a Flat H concept, not an inline 4.  This means each subaru engine has 2 heads (even though it's a four cylinder) and it lays flat so the heads point at the side of the car, not upright or angled like an inline or v engine.

I did not know i had to do that to the block...but now i do. You learn something new every day,and this is why i want to do this.

 

I am wanting an AWD,so i will watch out for that.

 

I know the the engine in not an inline 4,it is one of the reasons i want a subaru.

[Sapper 157]

I know the the engine in not an inline 4,it is one of the reasons i want a subaru.

Gotta love the low center of gravity that comes with these engines, am I right?   Not to mention the advantage of not having to worry about harmonic balancers.    

 

Hope im not hijacking your thread, and this may be a stupid question, but I gotta ask: is Subaru the only co. that manufactures horizontally opposed engines?

[Sapper 157]

I know the the engine in not an inline 4,it is one of the reasons i want a subaru.

Gotta love the low center of gravity that comes with these engines, am I right?   Not to mention the advantage of not having to worry about harmonic balancers.    

 

Hope im not hijacking your thread, and this may be a stupid question, but I gotta ask: is Subaru the only co. that manufactures horizontally opposed engines?

[lstevens76]

A few companies have, but I believe Subaru is the only one continuing to.  The most well known flat 4 besides Subaru is VW who has produced both an air cooled and water cooled one.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat-four_engine

[AdventureSubaru]

Another route for an inexpensive but reliable sub $1000 car is to pursue one that already has an EJ25 motor that has failed or is failing and replace it with the more reliable Ej22. The EJ22s can readily be had for $200-$500 and are a direct bolt in. Very often you can get these well maintained and well taken care of cars that have simply run out their time for that EJ25. I bought a nice 99 outback the other day for $500. cushy an perfect leather interior, lots of options, everything clean and working, but head gaskets had failed and a rod was beginning to knock. I sourced a good 1995 Impreza motor from pick n pull for $169. + fees/tax and put it all together in an evening in the garage. Add some $$$ for fresh oil change, coolant, exhaust gaskets etc. (Did not do the timing job since the motor had a gates sticker listing it as done last spring) and I have a needs-nothing comfortable driver for about $800.

 

Deals like that come along every week in my area. (which has a high population density) but with some searching, patience and willingness to travel a bit and jump all over the right deal when it comes along, this can be done anywhere in the country.

 

Motor swaps on these cars are really simple. Leave a weekend for it your first time, but I have it down to about 5-6 hours for a remove and reinstall. A "cherry picker" can be built out of $16 worth of metal castor wheels and a few 2x4s with a come along. Basic tools really. 8mm 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm sockets/wrenches with a few extensions, screw drivers and either a big screwdriver or a pry bar.