Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

Well per rockauto it seems a '99 OBW and a '99 Forester w/ 2.5L H4 engines take different timing belts.

 

Gates TB for a '99 Forester will fit:

SAAB 9-2X 2005 SUBARU FORESTER (1999 - 2010) SUBARU IMPREZA (1999 - 2005) SUBARU IMPREZA 2.5I (2006 - 2011) SUBARU IMPREZA OUTBACK SPORT (2006 - 2011) SUBARU IMPREZA SPORT (2008 - 2011) SUBARU LEGACY (1999 - 2012) SUBARU OUTBACK (2000 - 2012)

Please refer to catalog for application details.

 

It could be an older EJ25D belt that you got which would be different.

Foresters had swapped to the SOHC motors in 99 along with Impreza while most outbacks still carried the DOHC motor. Hence different part numbers

 

 

 

 

And yes. There were two different timing belts for the SOHC Ej25s. Found this thread while swapping an Impreza motor into an outback.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/90803-new-timing-belt-delivered-important-information-inclosed/

 

Sounds like you should be using the B304 (13028-AA181) part vs the 307 for legacy and most outbacks. Although it sounds more like a difference of shape than tooth count.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread has gotten sidetracked, the Outback is '01, and Might take the 307, the Forester is '99 and I only see the 304 kit for it -which is what I have.

The lines on the belt will not stretch to make all 3 marks align. If I can get the left and crank lined up, when I put the right on the marks- the cam has ALOT of spring tension wanting it to spin away. This has me thinking the valves are bent in there and springs are loaded where they shouldn't be. (?)

Any help greatly aprreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The '99 OBW has the Phase 1 dual cam shaft engine, which has four overhead camshafts. The '99 Forester has the Phase 2 single cam  shaft engine, which has two overhead camshafts. So, the two timing belts aren't even close to being the same.

Edited by The Dude
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I meant the directional arrows for which way the belt turns. I see the timing marks, but don't see directioball arrows. Try turning the belt around.

The arrows are in the first pic pointing at the mark.

 

Again, there is No '99 Outback in this thread. It is an '01.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The arrows are in the first pic pointing at the mark.

 

Again, there is No '99 Outback in this thread. It is an '01.

 

I see them now.  I was on my phone and the picture just wasn't big enough to see them. lol  

 

I would do a tooth count as others have recommended.  If the tooth count is right then just line up the cams/crank and try it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My method is to gently turn the motor by hand. If it hangs up somewhere, back it up and re-time. If you can go a full revolution (2 for the crank sprocket) and all the timing marks align again, you're good to go. 

 

And yes, ignore the marks on the belt. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Logged into Autozone and this is what I found:

 

0996b43f80207e21.gif

Make alignment and/or arrow marks on the timing belt in relation to the sprockets as indicated in the accompanying illustration. 
 

 
Z1: 46.8 tooth length
 
 
Z2: 43.7 tooth length
Edited by lstevens76
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your right side (passenger) sprocket doesn't look like its lined up with the seam on the head properly. Line up the notch on the sprocket with the seam between the camshaft retainer plate and the main body of the head.

In the pic you have 2 seams. First on left is the valve cover to cam retainer, second is the cam retainer to cylinder head. The retainer to head seam is exactly in the middle of the camshaft, that is the one you need to line up to. Do the same on the drivers side.

 

Your crankshaft notch is not lined up with the notch in the sensor housing. Turn that just a hair clockwise so the notch lines up.

 

Leave the tensioner off, install all of the other idlers.

Starting at the crank place the belt on the sprocket and hold in place. (I like to use a small spring clamp to hold the belt in place. I have one that I cut one side narrow so it fits into the slots in the face of the crank and gives a solid hold)

Run the belt under the top idler, around the right side (passenger) cam sprocket. Turn the sprocket sightly clockwise so the teeth line up, then turn counter clockwise to pull slack out of the belt between the cam and crank. Use a clamp to hold.

 

Run the belt across the lower idler, cogged idler, water pump, keeping the belt taught the whole way, then wrap around the left hand side ( drivers) cam sprocket. Use a 17mm box end wrench to turn the drivers cam slightly clockwise (no more than 1 tooth) so the belt teeth fall into the sprocket, then turn counter clockwise to pull the slack out of the belt and line up the timing notch. Use a clamp to secure.

 

Now, the belt should be taught the entire way way around, with all slack between the drivers cam sprocket and the crank sprocket.

 

Double check that the crank notch is still lined up perfectly with the notch in the sensor housing. If not, rotate the crank slightly so it is.

 

The drivers cam sprocket may like up half a tooth to one side or the other of the seam between the cam plate and the head. If so, ensure that it is lined up slightly toward the drivers side of the seam. (Think 12:01 on a clock) if the notch is toward the passenger side (11:59) remove the clamp, turn the sprocket clockwise one tooh and reset the belt on the sprocket, then turn counter clockwise to pull the slack out. Secure with a clamp.

Again, there should be NO slack anywhere on the belt except for between the crank sprocket and the drivers cam.

 

Install the tensioner assembly, use a screwdriver or prybar wedged between the tensioner and top bracket to apply tension on the belt.

 

Spin the crank 2 turns to ensure the notch marks all line up. Do NOT pay attention to belt marks, because they will never line up again after rotating the crank. Notches only. If the notches don't line up, reset the belt.

If the notches line up, pull the pin on the tensioner and you're done.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's Alive!!! :D :D  :D Thank You So much Fairtax4me!! -I have never done it that way.

All the tooth count info looks to be incorrect, also, the printed marks on this belt would never work.

 

Now to take it all apart and put the water pump, etc, in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is back together and running good!

Thanks again, Could not have done that without your excellent help!

I was really getting sidetracked with all the tooth count and whatnot.

Now I am having a beer!

Cheers!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...