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Sometimes my 2000 Outback Limited won't start


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Around town there is no problem, I can make several stops and it starts just fine every time.
However, on warm days after half an hour of freeway driving it refuses to start after turning it off.
I have to let it sit and cool down for up to two hours before it will start up again.
It happened again yesterday, boosting it did not work; alternator and battery were replaced last week.
Something seems to be overheating preventing it from starting.
Any suggestions as to a cause would be appreciated.
TIA

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I was having a similar problem with my old Ford pickup.

The fuel pump was crapping out and it wasn't getting gas when it heated up. After it cooled off it would start.

You might try replacing the fuel pump.

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Is it clicking when you turn the key ?  The starter solenoids are prone to wearing uneven and not allowing power to pass thru to the starter. This is an easy fix if it's your problem. Like lucky said, with a helper try whacking the starter while trying to start at the same time. And of course clean terminals at the battery and good ground are essential.  

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Thank you all for your responses:

1 Lucky Texan,
"try whacking the starter with a piece of wood"
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try that next time

montana tom
"Is it clicking when you turn the key"
The only click I hear comes from the back, I suspect that's related to fuel supply, no sound from the front like the bendix is being engaged but the starter won't turn over

mwatt
no, it won't crank at all

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Start at the battery. Remove neg then pos cable from battery. With sandpaper or a pocket knife shine up the posts on the battery, do the same on each cable end. Replace on battery starting with the positive cable then the neg.  Check other end of cables at the starter make sure they are tight ! Go for a drive and see if you fixed your problem .  Personally I still suspect the copper contacts inside your starter solenoid, but you have to start with the basics, and rule them out first. 

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Start by noticing wether the headlights go dim w/you try to start.

If they do not,then you do not have a battery/cable/connection problem,but a solenoid contact/neutral safety switch/ignition switch problem.

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I, too, suspect a bad starter. Advise above from Montana Tom is spot on. I would do what he suggests.

 

If it turns out to be bad starter contacts, some people do their own rebuild by replacing the contacts. The contacts can be sourced at a Subie dealership. However, my experience is the dealer does not have the parts immediately available, so they must be ordered. So waiting for parts, then do the rebuild takes time so it becomes a project. It costs more, but buying a rebuilt starter from an auto parts store, has been easiest for me.

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You can remove the contacts ,clean them up ,then I use a special copper compound rod I melt in and file off the excess. Before having that, I used silver solder and in a pinch i have used plain everyday solder. They use this style solenoid in toyotas as well. I've done this repair at least 2 dozen or more times. Replacing is better, but to this day I have never had to do over one of those repairs. 

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naru,

 

headlights do not dim when trying to start, probably eliminating a battery/cable/connection problem.

 

Rooster2,

 

like you suggest, doing a rebuild takes time. In the mean time it's the inconvenience of when my wife or I get stranded somewhere for a couple of hours.

 

montana tom,

 

How much time am I looking at for r&r and doing the repair?

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About an hour for me to do one, including R&R of the starter  & brazing or replacing the contacts. A shop unfamiliar with subarus and this particular fix, could charge 2-3 hrs of shop time +parts.  If you don't feel comfortable removing the starter yourself then a straight change out of the starter will be much cheaper way to go, rather than pay somebody to fix the solenoid who is not familiar with the job. 

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Start by noticing wether the headlights go dim w/you try to start.

If they do not,then you do not have a battery/cable/connection problem,but a solenoid contact/neutral safety switch/ignition switch problem.

good point here! If you do not hear anything - could be an inhibitor/neutral safety-type problem. Try starting in neutral or shifting in/out/in/out/in from park and neutral. 'pop' the brake pedal with 2-3 quick taps when stepping on it.

 

if 5 spd, 'pop' the clutch pedal.

 

at least, i think a 2000 will have the system in place that checks the pedals? anyone?

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1 Lucky Texan,

 

Last time it happened I did try to start it with the tranny in neutral.

 

BTW, I don't believe the 2000 Outback Limited was ever offered with a manual transmission, I would have preferred MT over AT.

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i've seen a couple 00-04 generations with bad battery cables that do the same thing.  battery cables that can't draw enough juice to engage the starter, happens sometimes and not others but gets worse over time.   pull back the insulation and they'll be incredibly compacted crusty stuff all up in the wiring harness.  peel back the first 6 or so of harness tabe/conduit from the battery terminal and see if it looks bad.

 

if it does - you can clean the wire out with metal brush - just keep brushing it utnil all that flakey stuff comes out.   that should last a few weeks/months while you source a good repair option.

 

a test it to run a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal directly to the starter positive terminal - you're essentially running a temporary new wire.  not much space around the starter and you need good jumper cables/clean/good contacts where it connects for this to work.  or you can run a temporary wire from + battery terminal to + starter connection as a temporary bypass.

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I just had the same problem but quite infrequent.  Usually a second or two delay on starting and sometimes no start until multiple tries, no click in front. I pulled the starter and took the solenoid apart, contacts were almost new 'cause it was a remanufactured (label barely still there)

 

However the electical connector to the solenoid from the ignition was a mess, corroded and dirty.  I replaced the connector, cleaned all other electrical connections on the starter/solenoid, and so far I have instantaneous start every time.

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montana tom

 

north of the 49th parallel we could only get the AT

 

here is the link: "but only the 4-speed automatic is available in the topline Limited version"

 

No recurrence of the symptoms so far, but I just know it'll happen again.....

 

Thanks to all for your input

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grossgary,

~happens sometimes and not others but gets worse over time~

It has happened sporadically for the last 3-4 years whenever the ambient temperature is around 25°C (77°F) or higher and after half an hour on the freeway, it has not gotten worse over time.

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Like others have suggested already, this kind of problem is usually due to either faulty or dirty inhibit switch contacts or worn starter solenoid contacts. The clue to the latter issue is you hear a loud click when you go to the START mode. The solenoid engages but the starter motor doesn't get any power due to the worn solenoid contacts, which are replaceable.

 

The circuit works by passing power from the ignition switch START contacts, then to a interrupt relay if you have a security system, through the inhibit switch contacts, and then to the ignition lead on the starter solenoid. I think the inhibit switch is mounted on the transmission. I suggest you purchase a factory wiring manual which will show you the things involved with the circuit and the locations of them on the car. It is money very well spent. Ebay is a good place to get them for a reasonable price.

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