idosubaru Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I've read all the threads about installing OBW/Forester struts into a legacy and everyone just says install them...never mentions any trouble with installation? I have the strut bolted in at the top of a 95 legacy sedan. the bottom of the strut mount is in front of the spindle mount for the strut so I need the strut mount to go behind it or over top of it to get it to drop in place. I've pulled the spindle assembly out as far as it will go and there's still like a 1/2" of overlap and the strut won't slide past the strut mount on the spindle so it can drop on top of it. This car has a decent amount of rust - one of the strut bolts sheared off - so I'm not looking forward to removing anything....but what would give me more clearance for pulling that spindle lower or out further? Axle?Sway bar? Compress the strut somehow in place - jack it up or spring compressors insitu? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Alternately - I could cut a half a coil or so off of the spring? That sounds like a terrible idea but I know people have done it on EA82 rear struts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Unbolt the sway bar link. That keeps the lateral arm from dropping down far enough to get the strut out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 sweet momma FT! thanks! so this is the case for these installs, that's how most people install them? i think i can contend with sheared/rusty sway bar end link bolts at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 When I did the forester lift on my impreza, I had to wedge a scissor jack and a chunk of a 4x4 under there to push everything down far enough to insert the first bolt, then loosen the jack and pound with a hammer to get the second one lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Yep, and the sway bar isn't vitally important so you can leave it unhooked if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I just shoved it down with my foot far enough to get the bottom bolt in first, then put a jack under the brake rotor to rotate the knuckle up and put the top bolt in. Also makes a huge difference if you sand/grind the rust off the faces of the knuckle and coat it with anti-seize. Makes it nice and slickery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 I just shoved it down with my foot far enough to get the bottom bolt in first, then put a jack under the brake rotor to rotate the knuckle up . yep, i've done that with others. i had a 5 foot digging bar leveraged under the car and prying down and it wouldn't quite get enough room. i'll undo the sway bar and have another go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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