Brumby electrical problem? maybe?

[brumby1988]

Hi I'm after some help. I have a 1988 brumby gl 1800 and have had issues with the distributor. The first time it went I got it changed to a mechanical (that was the only option on short notice) and then it was fine again. Then about 2 months later it started stuttering and losing power and the mechanic who looked at it said it was the points and changed them and the condenser and gave it a tune.

At the moment it starts and idles ok, not perfect, but when I drive her she starts to stutter and act like the other times just before the distributor failed. She seems to drive smoothest at higher rpm. At low rpm she really stutters and lurches along. Any advice would be appreciated.

[jono]

A points dizzy when factory, its coil gets about 9V via the ceramic insulated resistor that gets 12V on its in side, spits out about the 8 or 9V other side.

 

A dizzy with a module - its coil gets the full 12V. So, if the dude who fitted in the points dizzy in place of an ignition moduled dizzy (what you mean by mechanical ?) did not add the resistor to drop the volts to the coil may find the points contacts ash up - yellow in my case. I used to carry a little wet n dry sand paper to run through the points to get me rippin' again. I ended up running a second resistor across the coil power supply to keep points clean. Was a points car anyway, dunno what was wrong.

 

Hope you still have the electronic modulked dizzy - a new ACA branded module be about $100 from most parts stores in Oz

 

And, coils are marked to be used with electronic ignition or the like. Coils likely should be changed to suit the dizzy too !

Edited June 3, 2015 by jono

[brumby1988]

Hi

 

Thanks for answering. Yeah by mechanical I meant point dizzy. He did change the coil to suit the points dizzy. But yeah anyway.. still have the electric dizzy and coil to match but the inside of it has a tiny crack. Thinking maybe the point dizzy wasn't great to begin with.