nipper Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Ok something else to check, test your Alt output. A low alt output can give a false high temp gauge reading. AC system put some gauges on it to make sure the pressure is where its supposed to be. I am going with a suspect radiator at this point. Get yourself a cheap IR Thermometer off of Amazon (got mine for 19 bucks) and scan the radiator, In the old days you would feel for cold spots if suspecting a clog, or measure water in vs water out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted June 14, 2015 Author Share Posted June 14, 2015 (edited) reading 40psi on 85F, just checked right now and i will check with the IR thermometer when i get home, and the alternator, thank you for your time nipper, appreciate it. ill give an update here in alittle bit about temperatures on my radiator and voltage. Edited June 14, 2015 by Subasaurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 The driling takes place of a jiggle vavle in better thermostats. The jiggle valve lets air through but (mostly) not water. Try Radiator.com to see if they list a dual core option. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) Get your radiator cleaned out by a reputable radiator shop or replace it. Flush out your heater core. I like to fill it up with CLR and let sit for 15minutes or so and back flush, and repeat a few more times.A clogged heater core will give you overheating issues. Replace the t stat with one from the dealer only. Make sure water pump is flowing properly. And make sure you have a shroud around the clutch fan. Go through all this, and your car should run cool. The cooling systems on these cars are the weak link, and any issues turn bigger real quick if let go for too long. I have single row radiators in both my cars, My 91 runs cool on the hottest days with the ac, and my 89 runs cool runnin all day on the trail in the heat here. Edited June 15, 2015 by mudduck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 old school ( no reservoir/overflow container ) rad caps just had the rubber washer that sealed against the flat of the rad neck. If you look at your cap and it has and extra rubber seal that sort of seals with the sides of the rad neck as well is a recovery style cap. Sometimes the aftermarket caps are embossed with recovery. Oh, simple too, if a cap not hold pressure, rads can get hot. Don't worry about having to do your own HGs again unless you got water oil contamination or pressure erupting from relatively cool raiator, bubbles in side 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD J3wman Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 I got some longer bolts and a 1" spacer from menards, then I used them to raise the hood. It actually worked really well, I get around 5-10 degrees cooler at running temp and on boost its closer to 10-15 degrees.Also, I removed the spare tire and that helped a lot. I plan get some DEI gold heat wrap for the turbo heat shield. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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