1986 Bi-drive Recreational All-terrain Transporter

[MDW]

I'm still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. 

 

 

The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. 

 

What needs to be done?

 

• The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here where someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well!

 

• The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening.

 

• There is an incredible amount of air in the brake lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: 
  an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more). I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was the problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. 

 

• Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. 

 

If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. 

 

What am I going to do with it? 

 

I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in.

 

• First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. 
• I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back 
• Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights 
• considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6"

That's all so far. 

 

What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway? 

Edited June 30, 2015 by MDW

[l75eya]

If I were you and had that little gem in my driveway, I'd be fixing to restore it as close to showroom quality as possible. But! Different strokes for different folks!

 

Regarding the brakes, the later loyales did not have self adjusting rear brakes. If the rear brakes were out of adjustment, no amount of brake bleeding would get rid of the slop in the pedal. Either wait for somebody to chime in here about the rear brakes, or climb underneath and look for an adjustment nut protruding from the drum backing plate.

 

Stalling mid turn sounds like a float problem. If the new carburetor he supplied was a Weber carb, I'd definitely be looking to put that on if it's new. The stock Hitachi carb isn't considered to be a very good carburetor and a common upgrade is to install a Weber in it's place. Congrats on the car, definitely a good price. These are appreciating in value every year.

[MDW]

Thanks for your response l75eya,

 

If I were you and had that little gem in my driveway, I'd be fixing to restore it as close to showroom quality as possible. But! Different strokes for different folks!
 

 

I know this is tempting, given the great shape that's it's in. I don't think I am going to mod it too heavily, just a few bolt on adjustments, small lift (or crazy lift, haven't decided. I still have my Loyale as a grocery getter. This is definitely a fun car to drive as-is.... well after much tuning.

 

 

Regarding the brakes, the later loyales did not have self adjusting rear brakes. If the rear brakes were out of adjustment, no amount of brake bleeding would get rid of the slop in the pedal. Either wait for somebody to chime in here about the rear brakes, or climb underneath and look for an adjustment nut protruding from the drum backing plate.

 

Thanks for the advice. I do know where the adjustment nut is located. My loyale has a similar set-up and I have replaced all brake components on that beauty. I bled the Master and all brakes again last night and the car now stops without having to pump the brakes, it doesn't reach the floor; however there is still an incredible amount of travel length. I think adjusting the rear brakes is exactly what it needs!

 

 

Stalling mid turn sounds like a float problem. If the new carburetor he supplied was a Weber carb, I'd definitely be looking to put that on if it's new. The stock Hitachi carb isn't considered to be a very good carburetor and a common upgrade is to install a Weber in it's place. Congrats on the car, definitely a good price. These are appreciating in value every year.

 

Unfortunately It is a replacement Hitachi carb, fortunately it was free. I think the stalling on the turn may have been sue to the poor performing engine, but it did stall out three time while turning at slow speed. It wants to stall when idling so I am not sure if the stalling while turning is simply coincidence or direct causation. I may just install the Hitachi, since it was free, and that sounds like fun!

 

Last night I put some sea foam in the gas, and will be replacing the fuel filter as soon as I receive it from Rock Auto. I am also going to pick up new spark plugs, because I doubt the previous owner used the right kind, although wiring is all new. I'm hoping this should make it purr like a kitty. 

 

I also discovered last night that the previous owner thought you were supposed to run the E-brake like this:

 

 

 

WTF!!!

 

Therefore I am doubtful that any work to this car was done right, haha. 

 

Thanks for the info,

Michael

[l75eya]

In my rookie days of working on my gl I did exactly that to the e brake line when I replaced an axle by accident. Exact same thing.

 

Check through the vac lines for leaks, regarding the idle issue. I have a Weber if you're interested.

[MDW]

I have done some pretty dumb things too. I once filled my dif, with trans fluid! Have to start somewhere, I'm sure I will make many more dumb mistakes. 

 

How much would you part with the weber? If I'm going to put on a new carb i guess it might as well be an upgrade.

[l75eya]

It's pretty new, only about 8 months of use. The Subaru I had it on succombed to rust. It did have a bunch of dirt in it from dirty fuel though, but I just cleaned, rebuilt, and re-jetted it with all genuine Weber parts and it should be like new. I'd let it go for $200.00. It should be pretty much plug and play for you. That price would be for the carb itself, any extra jets I have laying around, and a brand new un-used low profile air filter element. I might have a few more things for it as well, including the old (used) higher air filter. Let me know what you think, send me a PM if you like. I'd need to know if you would be getting the adapter (for the intake manifold) yourself. I would like to keep mine, as I'm not sure if I'm keeping the motor or not (it's still on the motor) and I tapped the intake to larger studs, but, that's a different story lol.

[MDW]

That sounds like a good deal, I will do a little research when I get home and let you know later. Thanks for the offer and the advice!

[MDW]

UPDATE: The adjustment screws on the rear drums will not budge. Doused with a crazy amount of penetrating oil, nothing. I bought new ones, along with new pads and wheel cylinders. It was so cheap on RockAuto, I almost couldn't afford not too. 

 

While I was down there I noticed a pretty steady gas leak. Drips about once every 30 seconds, right next to the muffler. I'm sure thats supper safe. 

 

I am going to try my hand at doing a quick patch job with some gas tank repair putty, with plans to take it out in the coming months and doing a much better repair job. Anyone have any luck with Gas tank patches? 

 

Since I couldn't adjust the brakes, I spent my time lsat night ripping all of the interior out. It looks bare and beautiful. 

[Dinky26]

That sounds like a good deal, I will do a little research when I get home and let you know later. Thanks for the offer and the advice!

That is an awesome deal, if that were me I'd jump on that carb, congrats on your find.

[TomRhere]

Looks good from the pics..

 

Done a few "road trips" myself to buy a few vehicles.

 

If there is any play in the throttle shafts of those Hitachi carbs you have, they're done for.

The Weber is a nice upgrade. Although, I prefer to install one using the EA82 intake instead of the EA81's. Only because of the larger port opening under the carb.

 

Yeah, those rear brake adjusters are a royal pain. Tried my damnest to free a couple of them up, only to have them seize up again.

The earlier EA82 4WD models had the self-adjusting rear brakes. Not real sure of what years, but my '88 Wagon had them. Easy swap, slightly larger brakes too.

But, you've already bought parts for yours, so you'll be good for awhile.

Thinking if I was to buy those adjuster new, I would tear into them, coat everything with anti-seize, reassemble them.

 

The gas tank is most likely rusting out on the top, atleast 3 of the BRAT's I've owned had that issue.

No new ones available. Get someone on the West Coast to ship you one is the best bet.

 

A radiator repair shop can reseal yours, if it isn't in bad shape. Biggest issue there is getting the sending unit out without snapping off those screws.

 

If you do go for a replacement tank, it has to be from an EA81 4WD vehicle. You can run the EA81 FWD tank in a 4WD vehicle if you lift it 4" or more.

There is no dimple in the bottom of the FWD tank to clear the rear diff.

 

Speaking of sending units. I have had corrosion issues with the connectors on them on 4 of the 5 BRAT's I've owned. A better weather-tight male/female connector can be easily swapped in.

 

I have a few BRAT related parts here, not a lot, but some. If you need something, ask. I may have it.

 

Tom

[Dinky26]

 

First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. --If you're pulling the mounts out, are you wanting to keep them or would you be game to sell em? I'm in to buy them if you are willing to sell. Have the seats just need the mount. Let me know Thanks.

[iluvdrt]

I had squishy brakes on my 82 Brat. Change the rubber brake lines. Chances are they've never been changed. When I did mine it stopped like I had Brembos...not really, but it was WAY better.

 

You can get them off of Rockauto cheap.

[MDW]

I just returned from a trip up-north to the Manistee National Forest. 

 

The BRAT, rode like a CHAMP! all thanks to @Mechanical_misfit  Before I took off, he hoisted it up in the air and did an inspection. Results were very encouraging. 

 

-Gas Tank, rusted, needs to be replaced or mended. 

-Oil pan needs to be re-sealed right away.

-Need light patching on the undercarriage and a coating to prevent rust

-The rubber boot is off of the right axel, I am uncertain if that is an issue or not, although I imagine it will be down the road.

 

After the inspection he balanced the tires and tweaked the alignment. The ride was smooth, I am so thankful!

 

I have had some time to think about what I would like to do with the BRAT and I'm fairly certain I have a good path. 

 

First it will be called Mission Control... I'm pretty much a huge space nerd and love being outside under the stars. This car will be command central, mission control. It will be taking on a futuristic spaceish theme too! 

 

• It's going to receive a new paint job, flat black exterior, flat black interior.
• I would like to make a center council out of diamond plated steel. It's not structural so I am hoping to find a lightweight version and find someone who can shape it. 
• CB-Radio and a small amplifier to use my iPhone instead of a normal car stereo. Something like this: (http://tinyurl.com/nutyzxp)
• I would like a roll bar and brush guard, but I am leery about adding too much weight to the car, function over form! 
• I will most likely go with a 4" lift, which I might do sooner than later depending on the availability of ea81 4WD and FWD Gas tanks. 
• I may buy larger tires, not sure how silly a 4" lift will look with the tread I have on it now. 
• I'm going to use the Subaru Star Pattern and make an emblem, with "Bi-drive Recreational All-terrain Transporter" on the back, or somewhere. 
• I would like the Weber carb, but I have a re-built Hitachi Carb and too much money to spend on crucial items right now. Although I have an odd feeling I will be picking one up much sooner than later. I would, however, like to remove some of the unnecessary emission control components. 
• I have been thinking of designs for removable storage in the "truck" bed. probably be a framed with  paracord sides that can be tarped, black or olive green tarp, when raining. 

Thats the idea so far. She is an empty canvas right now.

 

 

 

 

@iluvdrt 

I had squishy brakes on my 82 Brat. Change the rubber brake lines. Chances are they've never been changed.

 

I have a bunch of goodies coming from Rock Auto this week, I will see how it does after all that goes on. I'm thinking there is no way they have been changed either! Thanks for the heads up, I will add that to the grocery list! 

 

 

@dinky26

If you're pulling the mounts out, are you wanting to keep them or would you be game to sell em?

 

I just have the mounts that the back rest slide up and down on, I don't have the platform that the seats rest on. If you need those back rest mounts, I am certainly game to sell them so they can go to a great home! 

 

 

 @TomRhere

If there is any play in the throttle shafts of those Hitachi carbs you have, they're done for.

The Weber is a nice upgrade. Although, I prefer to install one using the EA82 intake instead of the EA81's. Only because of the larger port opening under the carb.

 

I have been doing a bit of reading on this and would certainly be interested in making this kind of upgrade. I will probably install the re-built Hitachi that I have for now and cross my fingers that it will be better than terrible, until I can pour some cash into that part of the project. Unless I could get an alright price for my re-built hitachi...

 

 

@TomRhere

EA82 4WD models had the self-adjusting rear brakes. Not real sure of what years, but my '88 Wagon had them. Easy swap, slightly larger brakes too.

 

@mechanical_misfit mentioned this too! This is why I love Old Gen Subarus!

 

 

@tomRhere

The gas tank is most likely rusting out on the top, at-least 3 of the BRAT's I've owned had that issue......

You can run the EA81 FWD tank in a 4WD vehicle if you lift it 4" or more.

 

 

I suspect this is the case. It looks like there was some heavy hauling done in the past, the bed is concave and resting on the top of the tank. I am considering buying a welder to attempt to repair the tank myself, and add some structural support to the bed. It's a good excuse to buy a welder If that fails I am planning on a 4" lift so that broadens my scope, and might expedite the lift on my priority list. 

 

 

 @TomRhere

I have a few BRAT related parts here, not a lot, but some. If you need something, ask. I may have it.

 

Thank you kindly, I will keep this in mind!

 

Thanks everyone for the input, comments and suggestions!

[TomRhere]

Mechanical_Misfit and Tdodge are some good people. They have been here at my place a few times. I sold Tdodge that '85 BRAT he has.

 

Yeah, there is not much room between the top of the gas tank and the bottom of the bed . So I can see an issue there.

 

A Hitachi carb in good shape, isn't a bad carb. It's when they start going bad that they can be a pain.

Weber's are much easier to work on and/or rebuild. Others opinions may vary.

 

You can drop the oilpan out without having to raise the engine up.

There are holes in the crossmember under the engine that you can get a long shaft #3 Phillips screwdriver thru to access the bolts. Pan will basically drop right out.

Before you put the pan and new gasket in, coat the gasket with some Ultra Black and let it cure overnight. Turns that cork gasket into a rubber gasket, so to speak. Ubber good thing to do.

Getting those bolts back in on the rear of the pan is accomplished easier if the screwdriver you have is magnetic. Makes life simple....

[MDW]

Thank you TomRhere for the tips!

 

I am all about making life easier. Just received a few parts form rock auto today, the rest tomorrow. I decided to bite the bullet and buy another plate/insure two cars so I could drive around my Loyal (that i picked up from mechanical_misfit) while I do a few essentials to the BRAT.

 

The Brat is going to receive that re-built carb, new brake pads, fuel filter, air filter, right parking brake cable and proper NGK spark plugs. I am ordering the oil pan gasket within the next day and hopefully have a lead on a new gas tank from SuperBrat. When all thats done I will wait on a few paychecks for any more fun add ons! 

[MDW]

I found a super cheap, and very clean fuel cell on craigslist today. For the sake of time and money I am going to use this instead of find a tank...for the time being at least, we will see after I lift it in the future. The outside steel box will need some paint, but the inner plastic tank is in great shape. 

 

 

Will probably run the lines into the removable panel on the side of the truck bed, then down to the fuel pump.

[l75eya]

They don't have new tanks on rock auto? I just bought a new tank for my GL.

I have a lot of things going on right now sorry I haven't gotten back to you about the Weber. I'll see what I can do.

 

The rusty gas tank may have led to the carburetion problems. Dirty fuel clogging things

[MDW]

No fuel tank on RockAuto, but I found this one for $20 and will finish the install tonight for a total of $50 for 15 gallons. It's a "work for now" type of deal, haha. 

[Dinky26]

I just have the mounts that the back rest slide up and down on, I don't have the platform that the seats rest on. If you need those back rest mounts, I am certainly game to sell them so they can go to a great home! 

 

 

 

Let me know what you want for them.

 

Thanks

[MDW]

The new tank is in and it looks pretty!! 

 

 

 

Its not perfect but I had to get creative to make the different size tubes work. Right now it's not leaking and it even runs, go figure. Although I was not able to get the old tank out, it's wedged in their good. Will have to research that one more. 

 

I also took out the junk spark plugs that were in the engine and replaced them with the proper NKG spark plugs...I was not expecting it to make a difference, but damit, the engine really did run better. Now that I have the new, clean tank in the car I am going to tackle the Carburetor. 

 

 

I also still have terrible brakes because I could not for the life of me get the rear axle nits off. I made completing the fuel cell priority #1, so I didn't have a leaky tank when I apply heat to the axle nuts. (although I may try and find a Semi-Truck shop who will be kind enough to use their impact wrench first)

 

I am going to try and have all that finished by the end of next week. The following week I will be ripping into the oil pan to plug the waterfall situation I have going up there right now. 

 

Then I will be moving on to the shifter. Right now it feels like I am stirring a soup. no good! I'm also noticing that it is difficult to shift into gears, I may need to tweak the clutch a little too. Lots of fun stuff ahead!

 

 

[MDW]

Dinky26, how does $15 a piece + shipping sound? 

 

so it will probably be an even $40 when all is said and done. 

[Dinky26]

Dinky26, how does $15 a piece + shipping sound? 

 

so it will probably be an even $40 when all is said and done. 

Sounds good.

[TomRhere]

You have to drop the Mustache Bar for the rear diff down to remove the tank.

 

I remove the nuts where it attaches to the side mounts and let the rear diff swing down on the front mount.

A floor jack under the diff let's you control how far it drops, and makes getting it back in place much easier.

 

That fuel cell cleaned up nice.

Thinking I would have done steel lines vs. all of the hose though.

[Mechanical_misfit]

Looking good. Might not hurt to carry a fire extinguisher as well just in case those rubber lines give you trouble. When you get to the shifter I can show you what I did with mine.

[MDW]

You have to drop the Mustache Bar for the rear diff down to remove the tank.

 

I remove the nuts where it attaches to the side mounts and let the rear diff swing down on the front mount.

A floor jack under the diff let's you control how far it drops, and makes getting it back in place much easier.

 

I will have to give this a try, I figured that was going to be my move. It was about 11:30pm and I needed to be up at 2AM to drive to Chicago to pick a friend up form the Airport. Was able to go for a nice long drive in the Loyale though. Such an awesome vehicle, so glad I did not sell it. 

 

 

That fuel cell cleaned up nice.

Thinking I would have done steel lines vs. all of the hose though.

 

I would love to run steel lines and do it right. This may be where my newbie status is showing a bit. I wouldn't even know where to start with running steel. Would I be running the same type of small steel line that the stock tank is run with? 

 

I couldn't, for the life of me, find a line that was compatible with this tank. The employees at the two part stores I went to looked at me like I was asking them to solve da vinci code when I asked them for lines to attach to this tank. The rubber hose contraption was the only thing I could cobble together. Maybe not the smartest, but hell, I bought this car to learn these things.

 

 

Looking good. Might not hurt to carry a fire extinguisher as well just in case those rubber lines give you trouble. When you get to the shifter I can show you what I did with mine.

 

I'm thinking a fire extinguisher is not a bad idea! I will let you know when I get to that point, thanks!