New owner of 1987 gl realistic expectations

[grandam88]

I have owned this car now for a couple of months. Have been posting here on the USMB forums along the way. It is a 1987 Gl ea82, spfi, manual 2wd. 212000 miles.

 

When I purchased the car, had hot start issues along with horrible throttle response. I changed out the tps sensor as I check the innards and they were shot. Tps was replaced with new. This fixed the majority of my issues and I am now getting 32-33 mpg consistently.

 

This is the first Subaru I have ever owned, so far I am already attached to it. It is fairly easy to work on once you get used to it. I have spent the last 5 years working on a jeep Cherokee, so working on a 80hp Japanese car older than me is a new experience.

 

I have the normal quirks to work out. Shifter linkage, TOD etc.

 

I am mainly writing this for some enlightenment on expectations from this car. No, I am not talking about hot rodding it. I plan on babying this car into what hopefully turns into 400,000 miles.

 

I have never driven a car with so little hp. I have noticed that when I use my AC, I seems to lose a decent amount of power. To the effect that I can literally feel the car lose power in mid acceleration. I have never experienced such a thing in a vehicle.

 

When I use my cigarette lighter, or turn my ac blower motor above about 2/4, I see a voltage drop that usually affects the lights on the dash and voltage drops for a second. My voltage gauge drops below 12 volts at times. Especially when using the ac,lights, and slowing down. (I am also having idle issues that may be affecting this) I have tested the voltage at a normal idle, with EVERYTHING running, voltage drops to high 12's low 13's. 

 

I have a low idle issue, oddly enough, when the car is fist started from cold, it shoots way up to almost 2000. When I tap the gas, it drops to around 700, but then comes back up to around 2000. After car warms up, idle is decent. Most times it will stay around 700 at a red light. Sometimes it will also drop down to around 250, and the engine seems like its barely running, but it never dies. You can imagine that this could affect my voltage when I slow down.

 

I have also had some issues with it wanting to stall and a loss of power. This issue is intermittent and I would say it may even happen every 400-600 miles. I had it actually stall one time. When I started it, it started right up, but ran sluggishly. After a mile or so, it was back to its normal self.

 

Lastly, I am aware that newer vehicles generally adjust their air to fuel ration via feedback from the upstream o2 sensor. My gl is equipped with an upstream sensor and I was reading that there is some of the ea82s who actually do use the o2 sensor for feedback. Is my car one of those? Would I benefit from replacing this sensor, even though I do not have a code for it? Only engine code I have is a 35, I am having some issues with the canister purge and EGR solenoid. I have deleted them for the time being.

 

I know some of the above issues are probably part of owning this car, being old and low in hp. I know some of it is just the character of the car.  

[wagonist]

You should have more than 80hp, but then it also is older & has a few miles.

The A/C does that on all lower powered cars. Either get used to it, or rig a switch on the gas pedal to have the compressor cut out when you're trying to accelerate.

 

The alternators on the are only just ok. A new one should run all the stuff just fine (I used to run 4 spot lights on the front on mine back in the 90s). Do a search on here about upgrades (there's a version from a Maxima which fits apparently).

 

You say there were problems with the TPS, but have you checked the idle motor? And the vacuum lines running around the engine bay? But a dropping voltage wouldn't be helping spark either. How's the fuel filter?

 

Can't comment about the 02 sensor. Never seen working SPFI.

[Subasaurus]

got the same issue with the alternator voltage, can't have headlights, foglights, windshield wipers and A/C running at the same time, drops to like 9volts, also the alternator with 2 grooves instead of 1 has 10amps more, that was a simple upgrade that i did, i think from 50amps to 60? can't remember now, anyways about the A/C kicking on while accelerating, ive gotten used to hitting the off button when accelerating or trying to pass someone, i call it the "turbo button" but just be glad the car has A/C in the first place, theres so many 80's cars that don't have them, i have the rigged dealership "outboard" A/C. cigarrete lighter also drops my voltage and so does the blinker, funny to look at the voltage gauge when the blinker is blinking, up down up down... also the shifter linkage/bushings are super easy to change on a 2WD, make that your next project. about the revs, i idle at 650-700ish and 800 with the A/C on, then again i calibrated it at that on purpose to conserve fuel at a light or in traffic, but it also makes the alternator not put out as much, have to sacrifice something for something. highway though im fine, blasting music with a subwoofer, windshield wipers on high, A/C on, headlights and foglights on. im doing fine with the stock double groove alternator but never knew a nissan maxima fitted on the EA-82 as Wagonist stated, i will look this up further, might need this later...

Edited June 24, 2015 by Subasaurus

[BEECHBM69]

Search Maxima in this forum and a ton of threads come up.

 

Probably the easiest bang for effort swap I've done yet.

 

Did it on my hatch and my wagon with excellent results. Holds voltage at idle with everything on.

 

Dan

[grandam88]

I appreciate the replies. The main focus of my post was to figure out what was normal with my car and what is not. My voltage gauge pulsates with my blinker too, lol. I did not know cars of this age could feature ac and cruise control.

 

I have no idea what idle motor your talking of, maybe your speaking of the idle air control valve? I have been suspect of it for sometime, I went ahead and checked and cleaned all the houses connected to it and the intake. I also pulled the "motor" portion of the IAC off and sprayed some cleaner in it. I have also sprayed some cleaner in the main tube of the IAC. I do know it opens and closes.

 

I have had some issues with my cruise control, I have a post about that on here, If y'all have some knowledge on the system, i would appreciate it. My post is from today.

[DaveT]

Most of what you describe sounds normal.  I've been driving these models since about 1988.  I have noticed that when the voltage drops more, it has been when I've had an older battery.  If you are totally stuck in stop & go traffic, with a lot of stuff on, it will drop even a new battery.  But if you drive a good distance / time at speed, then pull up to a stop, and it drops rapidly, it might be time for a new battery.  This is assuming the alternator is working normally.  I always put in the biggest battery I can squeeze into the space, not the dinky one that the cross reference books recommend.  Random idle RPM issues and the other running less than well things you describe could be caused by a partially failing CTS [ coolant temperature  sensor]  It is a 2 wire thermistor that the ECU computer uses to control the engine.  It is not the one wire sensor that the meter on the dash uses. 

It should have an O2 sensor in the Y pipe, before the first Cat.  It is used to control the fuel air mixture once the engine is up to temperature.  It can fail in a way that burns out the cat, but does not throw a code.  I have not had an experience where the O2 sensor effected drive-ability. 

My 86 carbed 4WD 3 speed auto wagon had a relay in the AC system that would automatically disenguage the AC compressor when you stomp the gas.  The 6 newer SPFI ones I've had / have, none had that.

[djellum]

some suggestions for the first steps on the car...

 

if you have the tools (local parts stores will likely rent them free as well)

 

1) compression check

2) fuel pressure check

3) check timing

4) check for vacuum leaks / cracked or missing hoses

 

theory is that the compression check will tell you (to a basic degree) what the headgaskets, rings, or valvetrain is up to.  the fuel pressure check just ensures that your pump isnt getting weak from age or the fuel system is otherwise impacted.  vacuum leaks are one of the most common issues you will find, and have a great impact on performance, especially at idle.  timing is very important, and mostly you just need to verify that the last guy didnt mess it up, just make sure its at factory specs. if all these check out then theres pretty much nothing major wrong with the car, and you should be able to ferret out the issues. 

 

in my experience most of these cars idle a little low for the alternators.  in my carb I can bump the idle up from 750 to 850 and my dimming largely just goes away.  alternators dont put out peak juice at idle, they need a little speed to build it up.  not much, but if your idle is a bit low cause of a vacuum leak or bad sensor the alt may just not be spinning fast enough.  I normally see fuel injected cars running close to 1k at idle, so I think 700 is indicative of an issue.

 

the best mileage for getting the dim to go away is install relays for the lights.  you can look up how to do it on youtube, but what it does is eliminate the bottleneck of the headlight switch and gives the lights there own circuit that doesnt draw in the same path as the other accessories.  in your car the juice goes from the battery through the switch and out to the lights.  a relay gets a small signal from the switch and lets the lights have direct power from the battery, wtih much more robust wiring as well.

 

once you make sure theres nothing major wrong I would seafoam the hell out of it.  get 2 cans of seafoam, put one half can in the oil, one half can in the valve train through your brake booster line (youtube seafoam and see how to do it), and one full can in a full tank of gas.  drive out a half tank, change the oil and filter, drive out the other half and change oil and filter again.  this should effectively remove any gunk buildup that is removable without a wrench and ensures that you have nice clean oil and filter with no contaminants.  if the oil still looks nasty keep changing it and driving it till it looks right.  its ussually after 1-2 tanks of gas after I seafoam that you start to get the noticeable results

[grandam88]

I have tested the CTS per the FSM, It seemed to check out good. Considering how cheap they can be, I might go ahead and replace it.

 

I do have an o2 sensor on my gl. At the y pipe, along with a nice exhaust leak, luckily after the o2 sensor. I have a new o2 sensor sitting around, might as well change it out.

 

I am aware of the way low idle affects alternator output, my battery also seems to be working just fine. I think I am just used to driving a vehicle that put out enough juice to not skip a beat under a higher electrical load. My low idle is a culprit alternator voltage at idle.

 

I have also done the seafoam thing already. Did a can and a half so far in the tank, then half a can in the oil. Followed by an oil change with 10w30.

 

I have checked for vacuum leaks by spraying with carb cleaner all around the rubber hoses and gaskets on the engine. No vacuum leaks to be found, although I feel a vacuum leak of that magnitude would affect the the ac system also given the vents and such run off vacuum.

 

Also, I have noticed the wiring for the charging system seems dinky. The only battery ground to chassis is going to the engine block. On top of that, the wiring to the alternator seems very small for carrying 60 amps. I am thinking I am going to upgrade the charging system wiring to all 8 gauge, and add a wire from the negative on the battery to the chassis. You would be surprised the difference that could make.

[DaveT]

There should be a wire from battery - to the body.