Hard steering wheel effort? Try this:

[Bushwick]

About 2 weeks ago had 4 new tires installed and an alignment done. I'd already bought new tie-rods (inner and outer) so had the shop install them at same time as alignment, along with new rack boots (they raked me over the coals installing customer parts but it needed to be done)

 

Almost immediately I noticed the steering wheel wasn't returning to center as easily, and seemed to stay where you turned the steering wheel i.e. make a turn or change lanes and it'd stay pointed where you left it. A few days ago I noticed it felt like it was getting harder to turn and even noticed on light left turns like changing lanes, it'd "stick" after turning wheel lightly in the same spot, like it went from power assist to a dead spot or like something was physically hanging or blocking the rack's movement.

 

Started fearing the worse and thought maybe the rack was dying, and also thought the guy might have tightened something too much along with maybe having the wheels pointing out at the front. Fluid checked out, nothing was visually amiss either.

 

 

Decided to go ahead and change the power steering fluid anyways just to rule that out. Bought a turkey baster and grabbed an empty bottle, removed the power steering reservoir filter (looks like a giant fuel filter for those inline see-thru fuel filters carb'd cars used to run) then removed all the fluid. Added some new fluid until 2nd bottom filter was covered, reinstalled filter and cap, started car and worked wheel, shut off, then went back to removing fluid again. This extra step helped pull out OLD fluid in the lines as the small amount of new fluid added was a dark red now when it was extracted. After all old fluid was out, refilled with Castrol Dexron VI which mentions being a substitute for II and IIE where other brands only mentioned II. Probably not a big a deal, but would hate for there to be IIE in there and add something that wouldn't bond with it. Made a mistake as a teen and it ruined the power steering pump.

 

To be honest, wasn't expecting much but figured it was worth a shot. Drove it 2 miles and immediately noticed steering effort decreased by at least 65%! Couldn't believe it. I'd noticed when I originally bought the car, it's steering effort was harder than my Saab 9-3's, but without having another Subaru to compare against, couldn't tell if it was normal or not. Anyways, after the 2 miles it just kept getting better. Effort is very light and smooth, and returns now. The old fluid was a darker red, but didn't stink like it does when in a trans and passed it's service range. The steering finally feels correct and was so relieved it wasn't the pump or rack going out.

 

Figured this was worth sharing as a $10 turkey baster and $8 bottle of decent trans fluid completely revitalized the steering in my 95' Legacy. If you are still running original fluid and have a ton of miles or it's obviously old, REPLACE the fluid. You'll be glad you did, and you might buy a little more time with what's there and might event prevent a failure. 

Edited June 27, 2015 by Bushwick

[Olnick]

Thanks for sharing that, Bushwick--good advice.  (Now I need to go out and check my PS fluid!)

[Bushwick]

Yeah, don't rely on fluid level either. Mine was correct and had stayed at the same level for the almost 2 years since buying. It was a dark red with an odor that's different. Not as pungent as when fluid goes bad in a trans, but nowhere near what new fluid smells like.

 

Suppose in lieu of a turkey baster, disconnect a line and let it drain out.

 

Double-check your manual as I'm not sure if they went to a different fluid at a later point or not. Maybe someone more knowledgeable knows. 95' was calling for Dexron II or Dexron IIE. I remember working at a trans shop in the late 90's and SO many GM cars came in at 70-100k miles with destroyed trans and fluid smelling like a perm (perm being what people used to do to their hair in the 80's). Makes sense old fluid in the power steering pumps would degrade similarly over time. Steering is just so smooth now. Hard to believe old fluid could negatively impact like that. Think it used around 16 ounces. Bottle used for old fluid was 16.9 (IIRC) and it was full. So one quart will be more than enough to dilute what's in the lines and fill up thereafter.

[forester2002s]

There's also a procedure in the FSM for flushing out the power-steering lines.

 

I can't remember the details, but you first disconnect one side, low-down at the steering rack, and turn the wheels full-lock several times. Then repeat on the other side.

When I did this on my 2002 Forester (no symptoms, just precautionary maintenance), I was amazed at how the drained fluid was dirty/black.

[Fairtax4me]

The old fluid was a darker red, but didn't stink like it does when in a trans and passed it's service range.

That's because there are no clutches in a steering system.

 

Steering fluid typically doesn't cause much trouble in these.

Its entirely possible someone changed the fluid previously and used the wrong type.

 

After a few days you should change the fluid again to flush out any varnish or dirt that the new fluid may have loosened up.

[Bushwick]

There's also a procedure in the FSM for flushing out the power-steering lines.

 

I can't remember the details, but you first disconnect one side, low-down at the steering rack, and turn the wheels full-lock several times. Then repeat on the other side.

When I did this on my 2002 Forester (no symptoms, just precautionary maintenance), I was amazed at how the drained fluid was dirty/black.

 

It was black? Was it actual Dexron or something else? 

[Bushwick]

That's because there are no clutches in a steering system.

 

Steering fluid typically doesn't cause much trouble in these.

Its entirely possible someone changed the fluid previously and used the wrong type.

 

After a few days you should change the fluid again to flush out any varnish or dirt that the new fluid may have loosened up.

 

 

It was Dexron. Smelled like it, looked like it. Was just stating it didn't stink as bad as when it's burnt in a trans but still had that old trans fluid smell. 20 year old car with 180k miles it's bound to need changed eventually. PO only took it to dealer.

Edited June 28, 2015 by Bushwick

[forester2002s]

"Was it black?"

It was the original Subaru fill from new in 2002.

It was actually red, but with loads of 'black' suspended solids; so that in a glass jar, it looked almost black, but with a red tinge to the base oil.

[Bushwick]

"Was it black?"

It was the original Subaru fill from new in 2002.

It was actually red, but with loads of 'black' suspended solids; so that in a glass jar, it looked almost black, but with a red tinge to the base oil.

 

Interesting. Turkey baster was clear as was water bottle used. Didn't see any black in mine. Maybe it was the varnish Fairtax mentioned. I know trans pans get it on their inner surfaces, but that's always been silverish in my experiences. Did you notice any effort difference in yours after changing? 

[Fairtax4me]

Another thing that affects steering effort on these is the u-joint assembly on the steering shaft. The joints get rusty and make steering feel notchy or lumpy. Also causes slow or rough return to center. Some WD40 or PB or other sort of penetrating oil on the joints will loosen them up temporarily.

[Bushwick]

Yeah, thought for certain it was a mechanical issue. So odd it didn't get bad until immediately after alignment. But since it's less effort now than when first bought, it must have been purely coincidental the slow to return started immediately after, then roughly a little over a week later it started catching. Surprised mechanic didn't say anything. Though when he was done and saying everything was OK, he said there was "something" but had forgotten what. Figured it was minor and dismissed it. Guess this was that something.

 

Haven't looked, but if you are suggesting WD40 or PB, it must not have grease fittings then. Next time hood is up, I'll have to mash some axle grease into the u-joint area as a preventative.

 

Hope bringing this topic up helps someone in the future. These are the types of issues if you were take to the wrong mechanic they'd have you over their knee for a $1500 rack replacement + hourly charges

[Fairtax4me]

No zerk fittings, unfortunately. There are replacement joints that can be bought but they're time consuming to install, and still no zerk fittings.

[Bushwick]

Well, least they aren't like late 90's Dodge trucks. Those things seem like they were too small for intended purpose or dryout as that's a common failure. Went and looked at a 4x4 Durango (before settling on the Legacy) as a winter vehicle and the seller failed to mention the steering u-joints were shot. Took it for a drive and there was nearly 12 o' clock to 3 o' clock play with steering wheel. Never seen anything it like before.

[trivalence]

Thanks, Bushwick! I was just making a mental note the other day of how hard/weird the steering is in my (also) 1995 Legacy wagon.

 

Does someone have a link to the way you're supposed to flush the steering? I saw something above about the "FSM" but I'm not sure what that is.

[forester2002s]

I'll post a copy of the relevant 2 PDFs from the FSM (Factory Service Manual) (for a 2002 Forester). This details how to flush out the pipes.

 

How do I post PDF images? Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

EDIT: Maybe  the 'Attach Files' feature will work...

PS54 Power Steering Fluid.pdf

Edited June 28, 2015 by forester2002s

[trivalence]

Thanks forester2002s!

[Bushwick]

No problem. Took it out for a 35 mile trip in mostly suburban back roads and it felt so much better. Car and steering felt lighter and more responsive. Steering effort was consistent throughout it's range left/right. Car even felt peppier off the line though only thing I could think of there is the pump isn't being as parasitic with fresh fluid.

 

In lieu of the "proper" procedure, just pulling the fluid out with suction seemed to work fine just don't let dirt get in or on baster tip. I'll wait a bit after more driving and do a second fluid removal with baster and compare against fresh fluid and see if it's much darker or not. Should give an indication of how much old fluid was left behind. 

 

Make sure your filter basket that just sits in the filler opening when removed isn't damaged, that the mesh is still attached and not clogged. Can carefully rinse it and dry it off. Make sure any bits of dirt aren't left behind either, so flip cap upside down and carefully remove cap rubber o-ring with small screw driver and wipe off grime. Mine wasn't rotted so flipped it over and reinserted with fresh side making seal. If you can find a new filter, probably best to replace. There's a 2nd filter at the bottom of reservoir that looks like a pain to get at. Maybe need needle nose pliers? If it's clogged, be careful removing it.

 

Definitely worth 30 minutes and $8 for new fluid if the car feels normal. It was a slow and gradual decline in effort from purchasing to being like the rack was dying. Save yourself the headache and be proactive. I also suggest splurging and dropping an extra $2-4 for a better quality fluid vs. just generic. 

[johnceggleston]

obviously the FSM procedure is the best and most correct way to replace the fluid.

 

but another popular one is to disconnect the return line at the pump,

on the late 90s cars it is the one with the rubber hose .

the feed line is all metal.

disconnect the return line and then turn the pump by hand.

it should be pretty easy to turn with out the belt on it.

as you turn the pump the old fluid will pump out.

if you keep the reservoir full of new fluid,

the pump will flush out the old.

be sure to catch the old fluid in something.

Edited June 29, 2015 by johnceggleston

[Bushwick]

I went ahead and did a 2nd drain/refill using the turkey baster method and fluid that came out was same color as fresh going in, so take away from that what you will. So long as you add enough fresh fluid to at least cover 2nd filter after initial fluid extraction and work wheel to get fluid in lines to mix with fresh, it'll save time and you don't have to worry about removing lines or messing with the belt. Nothing needed unbolted or messed with either and took less than 15 minutes including the cleaning of 2nd filter.

 

The 2nd filter at bottom of reservoir IS worth removing and either replacing or cleaning out debris. It had something like a 15% blockage. To remove 2nd filter you need a pair of needle nose pliers and optionally a 90 degree pick. Use the pick or pliers to carefully pull up on the pin that runs through base of filter. Use pick or pliers to get filter off base, and fish it out (using pick you can catch a hole the pin feeds through and carefully lift up; if you use pliers, be extra careful not to grab the filter material and ripit or pull it away from the plastic). Use pliers to fish out pin. Used a can of carb cleaner with plastic hose attached and carefully worked tip of hose against inner wall of filter element while spraying at same time. It dislodged almost all of the debris blowing it outward. Then rinsed with water and hand dried. Use pliers to get filter back on base, then use a straight pick to align the holes, then carefully use pliers to reinsert pin. Just takes patience but very easy to do.

 

Again, well worth the effort. Car feels and handles like a new car now and throw a big smile on face given how smooth steering is. Noticed MPG increased by a small amount too and it seems to accelerate with more authority. Only theory is the pump isn't working as hard and thus isn't creating as much parasitic drag. With 130hp at crank engine, it doesn't take much to notice a free hp or two.

Edited June 29, 2015 by Bushwick