LucasP Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 My 87 gl sedan that has been weberized is all of a sudden having some issues that for the life of me I can't figure out. The carb has been on about two years now. But for about the last two weeks after the car is warm when ever I push the clutch in the idle will rise and stay anywhere from 1600 to 2500 rpm, and won't kick down. At about the same time the car started dieseling when I shut it off. I'm accounting the dieseling to the idle issue. I tore the carb apart, and cleaned it all out and re assembled, still having the same issue. After that I figured out that if I put my toe under my gas pedal I can kick the idle down to its normal idle most of the time, some times it will go down and then rise again. So I thought, throttle cable issue, lubed the cable and made sure it wasn't binding or anything, and the return spring is in place. Still having the same issue. So now I'm stumped and kinda frustrated. I will say that I have my carb mounted backwards, the throttle linkage is on the driver side. I bought the carb second hand and didn't have a choke for it. I've wondered if that was the issue but its been great for two damn years. Looking for input or ideas... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 The dieseling is very likely the high/hot idle. With a warmed up engine, disconnect the cable from the carb. Work the throttle and see if the problem is still there to eliminate the cable from the equation. Your throttle cable could be toast. The carb being backwards means theres likely a u-bend in the cable which would cause rubbing or fraying inside the cable. If either point (at the pedal or the carb) where the cable exits its sheathing is at a bad angle the cable is probably not good any more. These issues may not cause any trouble at first, but after some miles that cable becomes the piano wire in a James Bond movie. You may not have a throttle return spring or it may be weak. Dont rely on the little spring thats on the throttle shaft. Any part of the linkage could be gummed up or bent, secondary could be sticking, the main throttle shaft could be worn and causing the butterfly to be slightly misaligned and "catchy" in the bore.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 "You may not have a throttle return spring or it may be weak. Dont rely on the little spring thats on the throttle shaft." +1 Sounds like your accelerator pedal return spring has been acting as your throttle return spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasP Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 I do have a throttle return spring. Two actually I added a second one thinking that the one on the carb was getting weak. The cable routing is good. I made up a bracket to align the cable coming into the carb, and machined a whole new throttle linkage... one of the perks of working for a company that has to make anything we replace on helicopters. I guess I'll remove the cable, check the butterflys and smoothness of operation. I didn't think about a frayed cable, I'm sure its the original cable. I may just pick a new one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Is your Weber carb, a Progressive 32/36 or a Synchronous 38/38? If there are two return springs and the cable route is alright and moving smooth, then the problem should be related to some play on the carburetor shaft and / or the small gears that moves the secondary (High) stage butterfly, if it is a 32/36, they might be staying slighly open. Somehow I believe that having two return springs is an overkill, and also if those are not aligned to the carburetor's Shaft, they might have made the carburetor's shaft to work forced on a side, during all the time it has been in your subie, carving an angle on its base. In my own humble opinion, it worth to take out that Carburetor once again, and check carefully the movement of its mechanical parts, including the choke just in case, and try to emulate the return springs' counterforce this time, during the inspection, to find a free play on the shafts. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasP Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Its a 32/36. Its really stumping me. Took it all apart this morning and didn't find any play or grit anywhere. Im really starting to believe its the cable. I kicked down just fine when it was running without the cable attached. I guess 28 years on the stock cable isn't that bad. I actually like the second spring. The pedal has a much stiffer feel, probably a placebo effect but I feel like I'm using less throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Yes, it could be the Cable, worth to Replace it. But you can Test it while it is unattached to the Carb, Maybe it only needs some Lubrication... I like this comment: ... probably a placebo effect but I feel like I'm using less throttle. I prefer stiff accelerator pedals as well, but something in balance, not too hard nor too soft. I have a local Friend who owns a Huge Hyundai Galloper II Dual Range 4X4 Turbodiesel Touring Wagon, and its extremely Soft pedal, makes it super Sensitive, so it accelerates on bumpy roads easy, and it is even Worse on offroadings... I told him to install another return spring, stronger than the stock one, but he refuses to... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasP Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 I ordered my throttle cable, should be here Wednesday. Loyale: what jet sizes are you running in your weber, or what sizes to people generally run? I got the carb second had and never put any thought into what jets it had in it. I need to pull them and see what I got. It has always seemed to run a little rich but I've never had the time to really dig into the car because I was in school. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Jet sizes are in my sig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasP Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Sweet thanks, those differ a bit from what loyale runs in his bumblebeast. I like your numbers because youre based in Oregon, I'm now down in Medford. What kind of mileage do you get and how would you say it runs with the jets youre running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I sold my webered ea81s. I'm down to an '81 Hatch with a Hitachi. I just put the baseline jetting in my signature because it gets asked a lot. The webers were fine. I think they typically got 22-25 mpg. I have one on my '82 Jeep with a 4.2L straight six and I get 12-19 mpg depending on whether I am towing or running with no payload. The jetting is very similar to the Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 ... Loyale: what jet sizes are you running in your weber ... There is another thread going on regarding Weber Jettings. You might find useful info there: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144895-ea81-weber-3236-or-3838/?do=findComment&comment=1293629 Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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