2000 Legacy EJ25 Timing Belt Broke on Highway - Seeking Opinions

[dirty_mech]

I've got a 2000 Legacy L Wagon with about 155k miles on it.  The previous owner supposedly replaced the engine at 140k with a 17k motor, so in theory the motor should have had barely over 30k on it. The auto shop receipt and general exterior appearance of the engine supported this description, so I took it at face value and assumed things like the timing belt and clutch were either replaced during the swap or in reasonable enough condiiton to keep running them until a later maintenance date. 

Bad idea.  Should have not trusted the description of the previous owner, and I should have removed the right-hand timing belt cover and taken a look at its condition.  It snapped on the freeway while in the care of a friend and now I've got a big project on my hands when I get back home.  Let this be a warning to anyone who might be as careless as I was... interference engines with rubber timing belts are nothing to take for granted.

 

I've searched the forum and found related and somewhat useful information in these threads:

A.  http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148674-ej25-timing-belt-broke-need-some-options/
B.  http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142036-2003-baja-snapped-a-timing-belt/

Right now I am looking for any useful information or advice for my upcoming project.  I've previously had the luck of resurrecting one of the infamous Dodge Intrepid 2.7L engines that merely bent several of its valves and superficailly scored the piston heads after its chain tensioner failed under similar conditions.  The project was a nightmare but the engine was saved.  I'm hoping I can do the same thing with this engine.

My questions:

1.  Is it realistic to try and save the engine by removing the heads and replacing the presumably bent valves?  Or... is it likely that substantial damage occurred to the heads when the belt broke at freeway speed, and I should plan to replace the heads or the whole engine? 

2.  If the answer to Q#1 is favorable, I am presuming that I will need most or all engine valves, a head gasket kit, new water pump, idler pulley, timing belt, and belt covers for this project.  Does anyone recommend any additional parts, or have any other opinion on these parts?

3.  Any recommendations on where to buy parts for this project?  I've got online sites, Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, Pep Boys, etc. available as potential sources here on the West Coast.

Thanks in advance for all input.  I will update this thread, including with photos, once I start tearing into the project.

Edited July 17, 2015 by dirty_mech

[lstevens76]

First thing I would do is put a timing belt on it and see what happens. There is more than one instance on these and other forums that valves didn't bend.

 

It doesn't mean they didn't, but before you go tearing it down find out.

[johnceggleston]

first,

the belt probably did not bust.

it was probably the toothed idler.

that is a very common ''belt failure''.

 

but that does not change your situation any,

except, hanging a new belt will require a new idler as well.

 

so the engine must come out,

heads must come off.

have the heads ''cleaned and checked'' .

this will reveal bent valves, if any.

and give a repair cost for replacing the valves.

 

then just put it back together with all new timing components,

tensioner, idlers, and water pump included.

 

or,

for a little more than the clean and check price,

you could buy good used heads and just install them.

http://www.car-part.com

 

i think i have read,

you can test your valves by turning the heads upside down,

and pouring gas onto the valve face,

if the valve is bent the gas will leak thru the valve seal and down the valve stem.

 

can any one confirm this test???????

 

 

gates timing belt kits on amazon is a good solution.

[Fairtax4me]

Water works better. Gasoline has very low surface tension, so any even minute imperfection in the valve seal will allow it to seep past. There can be several minor gaps in a valve seat that don't affect its sealing under compression, such as dust or small bits of carbon, but will allow gasoline to seep past.

 

Water won't flow past a small imperfection, but it will eventually drip through a bent valve.

 

 

As said before, you never know, try slapping a belt on it and see if it runs Ok.

If not the heads need to be pulled and have the valves replaced.

They're not too bad to replace on your own if you have a small spring compressor.

Edited July 18, 2015 by Fairtax4me